Level Wind Gear-Train Lube

[YellowLabs]

Hi Everyone,

First post here, been lurking for a couple of months, trying to read through all the old posts and absorb the collective knowledge on Ambassaduer 4000/5000/6000 series reels.

I have my late 90's era 4600 C3 dismantled, all cleaned up and ready to start reassembling, my question is; do you lube the level wind gear-train, meaning the teeth on the two plastic gears and the worm drive gear, with grease or oil?

FWIW, I've been using Ardent Reel Butter and Lucas Fishing Reel Oil.

Thanks all

[nelz]

Welcome aboard. Per your question, it depends. For maximum casting distance, no lube. I like to add a little light oil on mine. Then, CorrosionX throughout the level-wind mechanism as well.

[YellowLabs]

Thanks, I'm not as much looking for casting distance as looking to cast lighter weight lures and spinners, +- 1/8 oz.

[Brewcrafter]

Welcome Yellowlabs!  If you are specifically referring to the plastic gears that drive the levelwind mechanism, loss of casting distance should not be a concern since they really don't affect that.  I just went through my ABU 5000AL that is from about the same era and is similar.  For the plastic gears, a light coating of grease will be effective and durable.  For the actual worm drive on the levelwind - no grease - use a light oil like CorrosionX or ReelX, you don't want anything that can attract debris, etc, and begin to become "gummy".  You have come to the right place, the wealth of knowledge and camaraderie on this forum is phenomenal, there are some incredible folks here. - John

[oc1]

Pull all that levelwind stuff out of there and toss it.  I don't think you will ever be satisfied with a synchronous levelwind when throwing 1/8 oz.
-steve

[tincanary]

You won't get a 4600 casting 1/8 without having a shallow lighter weight spool.  There's only one I know of made by Avail and it runs about $100.  Realistically, your lower limit will be around 1/4 oz assuming you're using a light oil on the worm gear and running the spool pinion and idler gear dry.  The synchronized level wind is another big roadblock.  If you want to cast 1/8, find an old Black Max or Pro Max 1600 from the early 90s.  It's the same basic design as the Ambassadeur, but with a disengaging level wind.  With cleaned bearings running a light oil, and the lightest brake blocks (Abu part # 20209), you'll be able to cast 1/8 lures.

[Tiddlerbasher]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

[nelz]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

The thought occurred to me as well, though I dareth not speaketh of such sacrilege!

[Cor]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

The thought occurred to me as well, though I dareth not speaketh of such sacralidge!

100% agree, but sadly it is probably the solution.

[oc1]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

The thought occurred to me as well, though I dareth not speaketh of such sacralidge!

100% agree, but sadly it is probably the solution.

I tried going that route but the spinner did not give me any more distance than a tuned up baitcaster.  Also, the rod and line are just as important as the reel.

-steve

[Cor]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

The thought occurred to me as well, though I dareth not speaketh of such sacralidge!

100% agree, but sadly it is probably the solution.

I tried going that route but the spinner did not give me any more distance than a tuned up baitcaster.  Also, the rod and line are just as important as the reel.

-steve

That's an interesting statement, would be nice if you should start a thread on that?

The lightest device I am able to cast with a conventional reel is about 1 1/2 oz then I get a distance of no more than 50 yds.

I have limitations in line weight, hook size and reel type because of retrieve rate.

My experience is that guys using spinning reels with 30 lb braid can cast a lure under 1 oz further then I can and they are using lighter and shorter rods.

[oc1]

May I blaspheme and suggest using a small egg beater

The thought occurred to me as well, though I dareth not speaketh of such sacralidge!

100% agree, but sadly it is probably the solution.

I tried going that route but the spinner did not give me any more distance than a tuned up baitcaster.  Also, the rod and line are just as important as the reel. -steve

That's an interesting statement, would be nice if you should start a thread on that?

It was discussed here in within the last six months.  Two identical 2 wt fly rod blanks, one built as a spinning rod and the other built as a baitcasting rod.  I'll try to find it again.
-steve

Ah, here it is: https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=29990.msg348884#msg348884 on page 2.

[Cor]

Thanks Steve!

[YellowLabs]

Pull all that levelwind stuff out of there and toss it.
-steve

How do you keep the line going back on to the reel evenly?

Going in the opposite direction, has anyone installed one of the dual bearing idler gears?  Is it worth the $20+.

[oc1]

Pull all that levelwind stuff out of there and toss it.
-steve

How do you keep the line going back on to the reel evenly?

Use your thumb and/or index finger.  It doesn't have to be perfect and will not affect the next cast.  Before long, you can do it without looking or thinking about it.  You do need to be palming the reel or holding it by the foregrip.

I'd put ball bearings on the worm before the idler.  But, you cannot escape that pivoting and scraping pawl.

-steve