Jigmaster Stainless Gear Sleeves coarse vs fine opinions

[Swami805]

I'd think if the line wasn't the weak k link the dog or arb would fail   Maybe the post holding the dog

[Alto Mare]

Did many tests with the Jigmaster while custom gears were being made.
The one thing that usually failed was the tip of the  pinion where it engages into the spoolshaft at around 22 -24lbs.
This was with stock gears, the custom gears held up at 25lb, I didn't want to push it farther.
One of the test was using a cinder black tied with a rope about 25' up and over a branch.
The black was around 30lb and I let it drop slow and steady while the line rode over a pulley wheel.
The reinforcing ring on the pinion didn't help much.

Sal

[Wilmar]

Sal, that's the kind of information we could only learn here.  Really cool.
Chip

[Wilmar]

Sal, I've got to ask - when the pinion gear failed did it shatter into pieces or damage the spool shaft?

If only the pinion gear was damaged that would act as the sacrificial part/cheaply replacable weak link.

- Chip

[RowdyW]

I'd think if the line wasn't the weak k link the dog or arb would fail   Maybe the post holding the dog

Arb's are notorious letting go way before a mechanical dog. Who has a Jigmaster with a arb ? 

[RowdyW]

Nothing in a reel is a sacrificial part. Failures come from bad used part that is worn out or already broken or cracked. Parts break when pushed beyond their design limits. If you need a stronger reel, trade your Jigmaster in on a 113H, 114H, 115, etc.

[Alto Mare]

Sal, I've got to ask - when the pinion gear failed did it shatter into pieces or damage the spool shaft?

If only the pinion gear was damaged that would act as the sacrificial part/cheaply replacable weak link.

- Chip

One side of the pinion, where it slides on the spool shaft bent outwards a little and causing it to slip on the spool shaft... it doesn't take much.
The ring on top of the pinions popped right off.

Keep in mind my test was to see how far I could push it and not where it should be fished at.
Penn rates it's jigmasters st 17 lb max.
If you customize yours with all available custom parts, I see no issues using it at 22 lb max,
22 lb is a lot of drag.

If you need more, as Rudy has mentioned a 113H would fit the bill.

Sal

[Maxed Out]

....or get a jigmaster with 113h gears and spool shaft. Also know as pro gear 541, or accurate magnum

[Wilmar]

Thanks everybody.  I think I see the lay of the land now.  Thanks Sal for taking the time to explain it clearly for me.  I appreciate it fellas.

Chip

[Gfish]

About setting drag weights to pre-set drag weights; Most would probably not do it, but I've marked some of my reels at 5 & 10 lbs. just for a reference point. Using a scale, find which drag star point is closest to, or, even with the handle arm at _lbs. on your scale. I use a white paint dot with the lb. number written inside via a sharpie, on both the star tip and the handle. Should be able to tell by finger pressure on the star when you get the right matching alignment.

This of course will change as various parts wear(drag washers) and possibly when you disassemble for service. Also you can use the inside of the star and handle if it causes you "cosmetic stress" to mark up your reel. Allen T's thread:"what's comming off the bench" features photos of some stick on markers used on lever drag reels that might work well.

[Alto Mare]

I usually have the star backed all the way and use my thumb to set the hook, maybe set at 3lb.
I do not mark mine, but have talked about it here maybe 10 years ago.
I also had pics and videos of tastings until photobucket blocked them.
I had retrieving a wagon with bricks while turning the handle and dropping the weight as mentioned above.

Anyways, if you start from zero ( star backed all the way) use a scale and measure what you gain with each movement of one point on the star and you're set.
I believe you'll gain 3 lb at a time, but depends on how your drags are set up.


Sal

[Wilmar]

Thanks Gfish and Sal.  Yeah, a kind of color coding with nail polishes on the star points in relation to the handle arm is what I was thinking.  Gfish, that is a nice system you developed - easy to see and able to write actual numbers on each star point.   Better than my color color coding idea by far!.  Sal, that's good to know about 3 lbs per star point and that you looked into it too. 

Thanks guys,  Chip