alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn 9500SS - rebuild, handle, drag and 12-tooth ratchet upgrade
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Penn 9500SS - rebuild, handle, drag and 12-tooth ratchet upgrade  (Read 96918 times)
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redsetta
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« on: November 29, 2011, 11:17:48 AM »

G'day all,
It's taken two years, but I finally managed to collect up all the missing parts for my 9500SS project.
I started with just the frame, spool and handle - tossed away by another reel tinkerer (though one with less patience, I s'pose).
First off, I'd like to thank Scotts (https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Home.aspx) and, particularly, Dawn (http://smoothdrag.com/) for their unerringly great service.
It's really something unique in this day and age.
Scotts actually managed to get the parts halfway across the world faster and cheaper than the NZ agent.
Here's where the story begins...



The frame was in fairly average shape, so a buff with the Dremel was required.



I've found a matt black model paint that matches the Penn black pretty well and provides a fairly robust finish.
It's not perfect, but I like the finish as it keeps a few of the scars of a well-lived life.



Righto, let's get straight into it - a light coat of marine grease and in goes the crosswind gear.



In with the crosswind block - the grease will hold it all in place for now.
The main bearing is 10mm x 26mm x 8mm (S6000-2RS).



I've upgraded to the newer gear set (8N-9500 and 19N-9500) as the older ones are rarer than unobtainium.
Despite having a few old-style brass main gears, they're bevilled and don't mesh with the newer pinions.



The pinion slides through the bearing, then into the frame.
It's all held in place by a bearing cover.



Fasten this down and insert the upper eccentric bearing liner.



Slide in the upper eccentric but don't attach the anti-reverse lever just yet.



Be sure to attach the eccentric spring to the bottom of the upper eccentric before bedding it in and fastening the anti-reverse lever in place.



We're going to upgrade to a double dog set-up, but the upper silent dog simply attaches as per usual.
I use a little light Loctite on the dog screws.
Insert the silent eccentric liner now.



Slide in the silent eccentric, but don't lock the spring into place until the eccentric lever has been reattached.



Now the spring can be locked into place.
I've put the ratchet in place here to help align the second dog, which replaces the transfer lever (part 224).



Slide the collar on and replace the ratchet.
The second silent dog replaces the dog (part 4) and its 'sweep' is confined by the bottom of the dog.



Here's the finished double-dog arrangement.
Thanks to Hawaiian Jigging for the set-up: http://fishinkona.com/jigging.htm



The rotor and bail-arm assembly are pretty straight forward, as per the following pics...









The two side plate bearings are 9.525mm x 22.225mm x 7.142mm (SR6A-ZZMC3), which I believe is 3/8 x 7/8 x 9/32.



Fit the bearings in both side plates and fasten down the open and closed collars.
A felt ring fits in the open collar to protect the bearing from water ingress around the handle base.
I generally soak these felt rings in a little Innox (or similar).



Refit the trip bumper and we're now ready to refit the rotor assembly.
Fasten it all down securely.



Insert the pre-greased main gear. Prepare the side plate with a light coat of grease.



Onto the spool and drag assembly.
Remove the teflon washer from inside the spool and replace with a greased carbon fibre equivalent.



Replace the brass washer and retaining ring.



In the old under-spool drag set-up, the carbon plate was static (held by the keyed main shaft) and the metal plate (held in the spool) spun against it.
I'm upgrading to the newer 950SSm system, which requires the 6-950 HT-100 drag washer, 7-950 metal drag washer and 117-950 drag plate.
This set-up reverses the metal and carbon plates and should produce a better result.





Reinsert the spindle and align the keyed spindle head with the keyed drag plate.



Slide the spindle into the reel body and re-affix with the crosswind block plate.



Replace the side plate and fasten down the four screws.



Home stretch now...
I'm upgrading to a Smooth Drag round power handle, so drill out the old handle post with a 4mm bit.
Open up the hole carefully with a 6mm bit (cheers Sal) and fasten down the new handle.



And here's the finished product... Stoked.



It's definitely a labour of love and one could probably buy a 'better' large-format spinner for a similar investment, but that's not what this was all about.
I expect it to comfortably produce about 18-20lbs of drag and hold about 500 yards of 50lb Spectra.
It'll now be my standard land-based yellowtail reel and one I won't mid scratching up a bit when live-bating off the rocks...
I may eventually add S/S gears and a 10- or 12-tooth ratchet, if I ever come across them, but I reckon this is about as good as a 9500SS gets without going too overboard.
Righto - hope that was of some interest.
All the best, Justin
PS Sal did a much more comprehensive tutorial on this reel here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=2263.0


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

« Last Edit: July 13, 2018, 07:06:05 PM by mizmo67 » Logged

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Irish Jigger
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« Reply #1 on: November 29, 2011, 12:18:36 PM »

Great tutorial Justin,thank's for sharing. May now take a look at my 650ss and 750ss models. Wink
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #2 on: November 29, 2011, 12:26:43 PM »

Wow! Justin, you really brought that reel back to life. You're right about  finding one in a better condition for less, but it won't be as valuable as yours...I know the feeling. Hopefully one day your kids will hold that reel and tell a story on how their dad took two years to complete the project. It's not always about the money Wink. Those replacement drag kits for under the spool are great, easier to maintain and more reasonable in cost. About Scott's, I don't believe that you will find a better service anywhere. The only little thing that I'm going to disagree with, is the use of loctite. I know that they offer different strength levels, but I still believe that loctite doesn't belong on fishing reels. Maybe on a custom handle knobs, but that's about it. Stainless steel lock washers have been working out for me holding the dogs down. Very nice tutorial, Justin. Please don't compare mine with yours, I'm no pro. Your tutorial are always clean and detailed and I always enjoy them...keep them coming. The only way I could probably come close is if I do one in Italian Grin. Hey maybe I should Undecided
Thanks for sharing Justin.
Cheers! Sal
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alantani
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« Reply #3 on: November 29, 2011, 06:40:21 PM »

uggghhh, spinning reels.....  nice work!  i'm glad you guys like working on them!   Grin
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Tile
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« Reply #4 on: November 29, 2011, 08:27:37 PM »

I have to say that servicing this reel is as simple as servicing a multiplier. The Shimano spinners are a real PITA to service (especially those equiped with a baitrunner mechanism)
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Irish Jigger
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« Reply #5 on: November 29, 2011, 11:21:48 PM »

I have to say that servicing this reel is as simple as servicing a multiplier. The Shimano spinners are a real PITA to service (especially those equiped with a baitrunner mechanism)
Agree 100% and those with rear drags can be a PITA too especially if they have had an ingress of salt water there.
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redsetta
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« Reply #6 on: November 30, 2011, 12:02:26 AM »

Cheers lads.
Sal - I hadn't considered miniature lock washers. Will try that next time I crack it open.
Tile/IJ - Coincidentally, I've got two Baitrunners to knock off tonight - a 4500 and 6500. But at least they're not Stellas.  Wink
All the best, Justin
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #7 on: November 30, 2011, 02:46:26 AM »

Tile and Jigger, yes I also agree that the reel is easy to service.  Lets not forget that there are guys out there that would have never taken a chance opening their reels, if it wasn't for these tutorials. Keep them coming Justin and thanks for all your hard work, we all appreciate it Wink.
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Dominick
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« Reply #8 on: November 30, 2011, 02:52:21 AM »

Justin:  Clear and concise.  That was a great tutorial.  I guess you didn't have an open bottle of wine while you were doing it Wink.  Dominick
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redsetta
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« Reply #9 on: November 30, 2011, 03:02:49 AM »

Grin Grin Not on that one Dominick.
« Last Edit: December 01, 2011, 03:02:42 AM by redsetta » Logged

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coastalobsession
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« Reply #10 on: December 03, 2011, 06:21:44 PM »

Wow thanks for sharing!
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« Reply #11 on: December 04, 2011, 08:18:57 AM »

Awsome job Justin, ive got a 9500SS my self its fully functional but needs some attention.
You wouldnt to do mine would you mate.  Grin
« Last Edit: December 04, 2011, 08:20:13 AM by boofhead » Logged
redsetta
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« Reply #12 on: December 06, 2011, 08:44:40 PM »

No worries - send it over!  Wink
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broadway
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« Reply #13 on: December 07, 2011, 06:08:51 AM »

      Great job on the tutorial and for creating a monster!  Shocked  An old, trusted reel with some nice mods that adds function not just glitz and glamour is better than a new reel any day!  I love you guys with the juevos (eggs) to crack these spinners opened... not me my friends, at least not yet.
Keep it up,
Dom

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redsetta
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« Reply #14 on: March 11, 2012, 10:04:48 PM »

G'day all,
Just a quick update on 9500SS mods.
I designed a 12-tooth ratchet gear in the hope of reducing the lag before the dogs engage, as I use my 9500 for heavy jigging.
I drafted my design in AutoCAD and had it cut on a water-jet from marine-grade S/S.
The part arrived today, but will need a good bit of testing (and, possibly, refinement) before I do a run of gears.
I'll give it a tidy up and polish the contact areas tonight, and update as it all progresses.
Here's the gear, relative to the six-tooth original:



It may appear a little more delicate than the stock item but, being S/S, it'll be substantially stronger.
All the best, Justin
« Last Edit: August 08, 2017, 04:07:02 AM by redsetta » Logged

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