The Daiwa 1300X

[mo65]

   I've been on the prowl for a lightly used 1600X, but those seem to all be in the hands of happy owners, with no intention to sell. In the meantime, I came across this moderately used 1300X for $17, so I pounced. After tearing it down, and studying the 1600X and 1300X schematics again, I'm very happy I pounced.
   This smaller 1300X shares many parts with it's big brother. It uses the same main shaft, same pinion and drive gear, same large AR components, same large drags, and even the same spool metal. I know...I know...what the heck is the "spool metal"? Some manufacturers call it a spool sleeve, some say spool shaft, even spool spindle...but come on Daiwa...spool metal?? Man, that's weak! This is why I wish manufacturers could stick to a common terminology.
   At any rate, this first pic demonstrates how to perform the "eBay Quick Lube". Just pop off the side plate and pour in some oil, any oil, right over the several dry greases already in there. The second photo shows this previous owner even expanded his magic to the drag stack...another whole can of 3-In-One...I almost forgot to get the pic before I had them cleaned up. Also note the "spool metal" is nicely chromed and the metal drag washers have no corrosion. Sorry I growled about all the oil.
   The AR assembly looks absolutely huge in the third photo, probably because it is. This build style allows that big 3-stack drag to properly play a lunker. That over size steel AR claw and ratchet being out front protect the pot metal drive gear. That leaves only user error to ruin your day, i.e.- locking down the drag and "horse crankin".
   Last but not least, here's a shot of all the giblets cleaned and prepped. I'd like to add that Penn #6-155 HT-100s are a drop in upgrade...a perfect fit. This is another one of those reels that is very hard to pick on. Makes me want that 1600X even more.

[foakes]

In the next few days, Mike --

If I come across a 1600X -- I will send it your way.

Best, Fred

[festus]

Good deal on that 1300X, Michael.  If the 1300X is smaller than my 1600X, it would be almost considered ultralight.

Yep, Daiwa has an oddball naming system.  Those plastic bushings on the handle and non-handle side are considered bearing metals?  

Speaking of Quick Lubes, I watched a youtube video of a guy servicing his Penn conventional.  He took off the head plate, didn't disassemble the bridge, pinion, or anything.  He sprayed WD-40 down inside the bridge until it flowed clear, and said that's the proper way to lube a Penn. 

[mo65]

Speaking of Quick Lubes, I watched a youtube video of a guy servicing his Penn conventional.  He took off the head plate, didn't disassemble the bridge, pinion, or anything.  He sprayed WD-40 down inside the bridge until it flowed clear, and said that's the proper way to lube a Penn. 

   The worst part about that is all the folks who take his advise. Explains why I find so many reels all gummed up with seasonal drenchings of WD-40. YouTube is polluted with substandard advise. Not just fishing reels...but everything. The hardest part is sifting through it all to find the guy who looks like he knows what he's doing.

[mo65]

Yep, Daiwa has an oddball naming system.  Those plastic bushings on the handle and non-handle side are considered bearing metals?  

  I was thinking about this, and it's not just a few reels that had the plastic bearings referred to as "bearing metals". It was all the silver C models up to the 4000. And from what I've seen...many of the X models. Not that it's a problem though...when properly cleaned and lubed those plastic bearing models are very smooth.

[Silvers]

You can also try to get a D1300 or D1600.

Those Regal-D series are exactly the same reels as the X-series just in black color.
Outside of the US-market there was a black colored X-series, which is also the same reel.

I'm always surprised how horrible are the insides of those reels  you are aquired at the us-market.
Probably a lot of those users meaned, many lube & oiling will always help well.  

[foakes]

Speaking of Quick Lubes, I watched a youtube video of a guy servicing his Penn conventional.  He took off the head plate, didn't disassemble the bridge, pinion, or anything.  He sprayed WD-40 down inside the bridge until it flowed clear, and said that's the proper way to lube a Penn. 

   The worst part about that is all the folks who take his advise. Explains why I find so many reels all gummed up with seasonal drenchings of WD-40. YouTube is polluted with substandard advise. Not just fishing reels...but everything. The hardest part is sifting through it all to find the guy who looks like he knows what he's doing.

The vast majority of folks who really know reels and are experts -- generally don't have time to post on the You Tubes...

Best,

Fred

[Midway Tommy]

YouTube is polluted with substandard advise. Not just fishing reels...but everything. The hardest part is sifting through it all to find the guy who looks like he knows what he's doing.[/color]

Amen to that! I generally use those types of instructional videos on YouTube to see what I'm up against when I have to repair or tear into something I've never dug into before. Most of the time a guy can get some insight but I leave the technical stuff to my manuals & common sense.

I've got a Craftsman Lawn Tractor that got to the point it would go through at least one and sometimes two $40 drag links every year. I got sick of spending so many $ so I checked YouTube and found this fix.  I used a split steel sleeve instead PVC and drilled a hole in the split where the ball pivots. It cost me a buck for the sleeve and I already had the hose clamp. It is still going strong after 3 years & $100+ less.  There are some good tips on YouTube but a guy has to think them through. I doubt PVC would have lasted 3 years.   

[The Fishing Hobby]

I try to put together decent videos for my YouTube channel, but I gotta tell you...it is tougher than it looks!
Working on reels isn't too difficult, but filming and working at the same time is pretty tough for those of us who aren't good multitaskers  

I have several of the smaller 1000X reels and they are some of my favorites. It was pretty easy to change a couple of parts out and get a silent anti-reverse setup. Looks like you may be able to do the same with the 1300X as well. The parts were still available!
I did put a short video together about that and swapping the bushings out for bearings:
That is one of my earlier videos and not very good (more of a slide show really) but it is what it is! I've learned a lot about the video side if things since then.
The D series was mentioned above. It is pretty much the same reel. I own several of the 1000X and D1000 reels and in all examples I have, the X series came with a clicker anti-reverse and the D series were silent. Same basic setup for the AR but there was a stamped steel plate that fits the dog and a spring that hooks into it that rides a groove in the AR gear on the end of the pinion. I changed out the pawl retainer screw as well to the newer style.
There is something about the size and weight of the 1000X (or the D1000) that just feels right in my hand and works perfectly for the type of fishing I enjoy (ultralight on small creeks and kayak fishing). Rugged little reels and built very well for what they are.

[tincanary]

The vast majority of folks who really know reels and are experts -- generally don't have time to post on the You Tubes...

Best,

Fred

Ain't that the truth.  Time is money, and we're busy trying to get work done to make our customers happy.

[Wolfram M]

Just picked up a 1600X, and read through this thread. Mine's full of sand and grit under the spool, and every crevice has some sand and dirt stuck in it. I'll have it apart for a thorough cleaning and then I need to figure out why the anti-reverse doesn't work.

What's curious though-the 1600X is physically smaller than the 160X, and the threads for the handle are MUCH smaller. I was hoping that my 160X handle, which is in great shape, would fit, because the rest of my 160X is a bit past worn out.

The main gear bushings seem pretty worn on this 1600X, so I am going to look into the ball bearing upgrade that The Fishing Hobby has shown us for the 1000X, and see what needs to happen for the 1600X (And the 1300X since you say they use the same main gear!)

[bushleague]

You can also try to get a D1300 or D1600.

Those Regal-D series are exactly the same reels as the X-series just in black color.
Outside of the US-market there was a black colored X-series, which is also the same reel.

I'm always surprised how horrible are the insides of those reels  you are aquired at the us-market.
Probably a lot of those users meaned, many lube & oiling will always help well. 

I've got one of these on the way, a super clean D1600. I'm curious how similar it will be to my BG-15, it sure looks and specks out similar.

I bought it because I'm going on a fly in trip to Northern Saskatchewan this summer, mostly interested in big pike, and I wanted to bring two super tough reels, that in a worst case scenario I could combine parts to keep at least one running. I do most of my fishing with a fleet of Mitchell 300's, and have landed some monsters on them but due to their lack of a line roller I find that with line over 10lb test the friction can start wearing the line badly if you've regularly got big fish making hard runs. So I picked up the Regal and plan to use it and my BG for the trip.

[Gfish]

I missed this post. I call the "spool metal" a spindle. Maybe a Japanese to English deal. Adds support strength to a spinner. The spool is aluminum, right? That's a type of metal. I like that there are no ball bearings for the crank shaft, as they can corrode. The AR/clicker system on these old Daiwa's is awesome. Nice spinner.
Great mod. On the AR , Fishing Hobby!

[Paul Roberts]

I've got one of these on the way, a super clean D1600. I'm curious how similar it will be to my BG-15, it sure looks and specks out similar.

I bought it because I'm going on a fly in trip to Northern Saskatchewan this summer, mostly interested in big pike, and I wanted to bring two super tough reels, that in a worst case scenario I could combine parts to keep at least one running. I do most of my fishing with a fleet of Mitchell 300's, and have landed some monsters on them but due to their lack of a line roller I find that with line over 10lb test the friction can start wearing the line badly if you've regularly got big fish making hard runs. So I picked up the Regal and plan to use it and my BG for the trip.

I've got the D1300 and 1600, as well as a BG15. I had thought the main gear on the BG was of a different material than the D-series. But the parts numbers are the same. The only diff then is the BG having ball bearings instead of nylon bushings supporting the main gear/handle shafts. Possibly a different body material and finish in the BG owing to the saltwater market.

Can't say how the D1600 actually compares to the BG15 bc the D is a recent acquisition. My D1300 has had extensive use though and held up fine with the 6 to 12lb lines I used it with. My BG15 is used mostly with 12-17lb line and has been a good solid reel, although I have abused it -chafing some gear teeth- by "horse-cranking". Sometimes those bass require that. Give 'em an inch and they're gone.

[bushleague]

I've got the D1300 and 1600, as well as a BG15. I had thought the main gear on the BG was of a different material than the D-series. But the parts numbers are the same. The only diff then is the BG having ball bearings instead of nylon bushings supporting the main gear/handle shafts. Possibly a different body material and finish in the BG owing to the saltwater market.

Can't say how the D1600 actually compares to the BG15 bc the D is a recent acquisition. My D1300 has had extensive use though and held up fine with the 6 to 12lb lines I used it with. My BG15 is used mostly with 12-17lb line and has been a good solid reel, although I have abused it -chafing some gear teeth- by "horse-cranking". Sometimes those bass require that. Give 'em an inch and they're gone.

 Yeah my BG has been great too, its my favorite reel, and what got me into vintage reels. I've only ever run 10lb test on mine so the drive train has had it fairly easy, despite the fact that its mostly been used for pike. While allot of people tend to look down on Pike, and while they are not generally credited with being very smart, once you have on on the end of your line they get clever pretty quick. Once the fight is on they know more dirty tricks than just about any other freshwater fish and have a natural evil genious for figuring out how to use pretty much anything at all to their advantage. Add in their size, ability to make long runs, and the amount of time I spend fishing for them, and they can wear out a Sahara in just a couple seasons.

 Glad to hear that the D should be very similar, wondering if the spools are interchangable? One thing I've noticed, just in shopping around, that whatever the D's are coated in seems to be possibly tougher than the BG, while you do see them skuffed up a fair bit they often dont seem to have major chips in the finish or much for bare metal showing.