Newell S series 200's / This is an S229-5

[Rancanfish]

This shot pretty much says it all....  I am so happy I didn't bend or damage any thing.  (Except screws).

Thanks to Vilters, Swami and Newell Nut for their generosity as usual.  Vilters, I added 229 to the title.

Newell Nut,  when I went to look at the link, it was gone.  

[Newell Nut]

Did the short screws holding the inner rings to the post have a little nut on them or did they screw into one ring that was threaded. Newell made them two ways. I will check my stash and check back back for your answer.

Dwight

[Newell Nut]

https://www.ebay.com/itm/newell-reel-229-base-bars-spool-and-rod-clamp/223987541247?hash=item3426b2a4ff:g:6NUAAOSwbJheomKZ

This is what you need with a few screws to solve your problems and upgrade the reel. I have plenty of the short screws to send you if you buy this set.

[vilters]

yours if you want it. n/c, just give me your mailing address

[Rancanfish]

PM sent, Mr. Vilters.  Very generous. Ck. my for sale / trades posting to see if you need anything.


Dwight, I'm not sure what you mean, but there were four screws total that utilized nuts. (As far as I saw). 


I'm pretty confident I'll be able to get this puppy functional with Vilters offer.  I'm going to put some braid that I have on another reel on it. And maybe a SS sleeve.  I have one of Alan's small knobs already mounted to a Newell metal arm.  I'm going to fish it.

[Newell Nut]

Good Luck

Newell used two types of long screws. You have 6 long screws and the two longest ones are the side plate screws that use the captive nut on the handle side. The 4 shorter ones hold the inner rings to the base and post. Those were screwed into the inner rings that were punched with a small hole and then threaded on some reels. The other method Newell used on some models was to make all the holes in the inner rings the same size and a little nut was used to hold the rings to the base and bars. The reason that I bring this up is the model that used the threaded hole will have slightly shorter screws than the model with the little nuts. So if I send you a set of long screws and your reel needed the screws to be 3/32 longer for little nuts then you have a problem. The ones in my stash are from two reels that had the threaded inner rings. If your inner rings are not threaded then my screws would be too short for you by about 3/32.

Newell built great reels but he did a few quirky things that can test you when working some models.

Dwight

[Rancanfish]

Dwight,

I appreciate the help.  You have been my guru since I first slipped onto the Newell slope.  I'm a bit challenged when it comes to visualizing potential problems, but I'm sure I'll learn what's what upon the reassembly.

The positive I got out of this reel is learning some more about Newell.  All my other Newells were cake. And though this reel sits in pieces, I found satisfaction in the process this time.  I wasn't able to rush through it.  And I saved some history, poorly conceived as it was by Mr. Newell.

I only ruined two screws, and that was deliberate. I'm rather pleased, I used restraint as my ham hands were wanting to just saw everything apart and install a Tiburon frame. And I didn't lose one of those tiny, tiny nuts.

[Newell Nut]

Okay, your reel used the little nuts to hold the frame together. My long screw sets will not work for you.
One great thing about running into problems is you get an education from it. I have rebuilt around 200 Newells of every size and shape except Blackies. I was warned to stay away from them a long time ago. They are fragile due to no SS rings and some parts only work in a blackie so due to my friend warning me I never touched one.

If you get into Newells like me keep a spreadsheet of everything you add to one such as 3 stack, 4 stack, 5 stack and 6 stack drags, P Star, plastic star. When you have a big collection it gets confusing and you also need to note the location of each reel. Mine are not all in my mancave. Good Luck and let me know if have a problem.

[Rancanfish]

My only 'hmm' of disappointment was when I found the plastic clicker system.  But I'm going with it!  I'm going to fish it hard.  

I started a book of reel maintenance a long time ago. Sometimes I even update it, lol.   

No blackies was a given for me. They just don't look right without rings.

[Newell Nut]

A couple more tips for you when searching for parts. The base and bars for a 220 fit a 322, 229 base and bars fit a 332. 533 base and bars fit a 440 and 631. 540 base and bars fit at 636.

The older Newells with the 8 teeth on the sprocket of the gear sleeve use a different shape dog than the 10 tooth sprockets. The older G reels with a metal clicker have a metal sprocket on the graphite spools.

[Rancanfish]

Well, out of the blue, a customer of mine stopped in the street, as I was out front painting on the boat trailer.

He sees a Daiwa conventional I was playing with sitting on the hood of my mini truck.  Picks it up and says 'Can you work on a Newell'?  Lol.  Sure I can.

He drops a no letter 338J-5 by 1/2 an hour later.  Since I had to eat lunch (and let paint dry),  I sat at the patio table and tore it down. 

Right away I start noticing some differences.  Instead of one SS cover strip over the front graphite bar, there are stainless pins on top of both bars, front & back.  And the screws were more like a standard set up.  Like the 'S' I just took apart, it has the same type spool and plastic clicker assembly. This was one loud clicker surprisingly.

Found lots of rusty areas, just starting to pit the inside surfaces of the rings.  The underside of the main was completely orange with rust.  Cleaned all the parts and re-installed with lots of Yamaha blue.  Even laid some in the grooves on top of the bars.  Took out some plastic looking drags and put in a stock HT100 set I purchased for a 501 build.  I also removed the bearings for cleaning and relube.

But boy did I have problems getting it back working. Drag star was binding, then everything started binding when I tightened the drag star tight. I flipped washers and looked at schematics 4 times.  I finally got out my Penn parts box and made it work.  Works really well now with good drag ramp rate, quick shifts in and out of gear and far better freespool.

I'm learning which series to avoid......

[Swami805]

No letters can be hit or miss, the short screw 2 bearing ones are pretty good. Some of them have 2 dogs which is nice. Those little pin/bars are a pain but keep the line from grooving the cross bars. Does that one have a top cross bar? You can switch it to threaded inserts or keep it to stiffen the reel. Strange how the reel goes back together just like it was and won't work right, happens to me too, switch a washer or spacer and it works fine.

[Rancanfish]

Well, the pins were under pressure from having a slight bend in them. I had some definite springs on my hands.  That and a philips head screw in the outside ring told me that I was not the first to look inside. It was covered in that mucky dust from sitting in a garage for years.  Dawn and a tooth brush.

I had called and told him it was ready before I realized everything was locking up at max drag.

I can't believe how perfect it is now.  It looks new and works like it.

And he brought me a 12 pack of Modelo.

[Newell Nut]

Keep tinkering, you ain't seen nothing yet. Once you have seen and worked on all styles you will be way ahead of the pack. Fun stuff. Long screws are okay if you get them early and just lubricate them. They work great. Newell did not lubricate them when they built them. My origingal Newell 540 from 1992 was fished and washed really good each trip for 20 years ad came apart easily and had long bolts. The secret to all reels is plenty of fresh water after each trip. Never let one sit overnight with salt on it.

Dwight

[Rancanfish]

Well, like a dummy I just bought a G220F and a no letter 322.   I'm a slow learner.