re-tapping a jigmaster gear sleeve

[alantani]

does anyone know off hand if there is a steel tap and die set to chase the threads of a jigmaster gear sleeve?  both inside and out.  a stainless steel star (coarse and fine) would work for the outside.  i doubt that anyone ever made a stainless steel handle nut.  i've been mulling over a way to repair the tops of these softer brass gear sleeves. 

been repairing alot of party boat reels lately and i come across too many gear sleeves that are marginal.  i really hate to just throw them away.  thanks!  alan

[jurelometer]

The Jigmaster sleeves are a weird size, so you will not be able to find the normal rethreading kits with a cheap tap and a hex die.

You will have to get the round HSS dies, and will need a round die wrench.   I know a couple places that still stock the fine thread size  13/32x32,  but the course size (13/32x24). are getting pretty impossible to find.

I would have guessed that once a course thread brass sleeve is cross threaded, it would be toast.

At any rate, not sure that a die would do a much better job than a stainless star to clean up brass threads.

Will PM you a couple sources.

-J

[alantani]

ok, i think that the star for 112H2 is stainless steel.  i'll check with mysticparts.com.  it's coarse thread and most of the damaged gear sleeves i find are coarse.  now for the tap for the inside threads.  anyone got a lead on that one? 

[oc1]

Someone with both a thread gauge and a jigmaster should be able to sort it out.  Thread gauges are not real expensive, but go for a mid-range one because the really cheap ones are junk.
-steve.

[Brandon G]

Hello!
I was curious if you had any pictures of the 'bad' gear sleeves. I haven't seen to many 'bad' parts yet, so I was hoping you had a picture showing damage I could keep an eye out for.

[alantani]

a common problem with the top of the gear sleeve is that it is rounded off because the brass is soft.  that was the original reason for making the stainless steel gear sleeve.  i've been working on alot of party boat reels lately, which means alot of old beat up penn reels  in many cases, the gear sleeves have at least some minimal damage.  i was hoping to find a way to re-shape the top on a press, but i would likely damage the threads on the inside.  i found a tap that will work on the inside threads.  that might be enough.

[alantani]

Hello!
I was curious if you had any pictures of the 'bad' gear sleeves. I haven't seen to many 'bad' parts yet, so I was hoping you had a picture showing damage I could keep an eye out for.

you'll be able to spot it right away.  the handle will be obviously loose.  i'll try to post something later. 

[mo65]

  Maybe this photo will help show the handle mount damage Alan...a trashed sleeve on the left and a new one on the right.

[Donnyboat]

Gee Mike, nice clear photo, I find a lot of reels with a loose handle, centre stud, never screwed down far enough, some people must think there never going to get to the locking screw hole in line, but the inside thread will take a lot of pressure ay. cheers Don.

[Brandon G]

  Maybe this photo will help show the handle mount damage Alan...a trashed sleeve on the left and a new one on the right.

Thank you Mo! Luckily I haven't come across that type of damage yet.
I appreciate your response!

[Bryan Young]

Alan,

I chasing the threads is one thing but I believe that once the head of the gear sleeve is rounded, there is noting you can do to reform the top of the gear sleeve.

Bryan

[alantani]

i was playing around with it a little today and i got it to work, partly.  i still need a tap for the inside threads.  those were toast.  i place a star on the gear sleeve then a stainless steel handle arm, the turned the star clockwise a little to support the handle arm.  this actually did a good job of protecting the outside threads.  to flare the top, i used this 5/32nds hex bit, then compressed the assembly in a bench vise.  it actually worked, but damaged the inside threads as expected.  i tried to chase the inside threads with handle nut and it did work a little, but the threads of the handle nut were too badly damaged.  it's brass on brass and i didn't expect it to work out. the threads of the handle nut were damaged as well.   i think going slowly, stopping to chase the threads with a handle nut after each interval, would work better.  still, this hex bit worked well.  

when the soft brass at the top of the gear sleeve is damaged, it really does have to be replaced.  this is just a stop gap measure.  when i get the tap, i'll take more pictures.  

[SteveL]

I searched around the internet for a 13/32-24 die for the coarse threads and didn't find any so far.  Found several taps in that size, so an alternative to reforming the threads with a  stainless star would be to drill out and tap a 3/8" nut (or any convenient sized steel bar).

[oc1]

If the correct tap and die were available, you could flux and heat the sleeve and melt a layer of silver solder on the end.  Then tap and chase.  Probably a medium solder that flows at about 1360 degrees. Look up "silver brazing", "hard soldering" or "silver soldering".  A similar technique is used to build up worn or gouged shafts on pumps and other rotary machines.

It seems like Penn could have at least had the courtesy to use common standard thread sizes.  It is as though they intentionally made it difficult to do repairs except with their parts.
-steve

[Cuttyhunker]

The Jigmaster sleeves are a weird size, so you will not be able to find the normal rethreading kits with a cheap tap and a hex die.

You will have to get the round HSS dies, and will need a round die wrench.   I know a couple places that still stock the fine thread size  13/32x32,  but the course size (13/32x24). are getting pretty impossible to find.

I would have guessed that once a course thread brass sleeve is cross threaded, it would be toast.

At any rate, not sure that a die would do a much better job than a stainless star to clean up brass threads.

Will PM you a couple sources.

-J