alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Shimano Stradic 3000FJ Questions
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
June 02, 2020, 03:21:49 AM *
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Author Topic: Shimano Stradic 3000FJ Questions  (Read 282 times)
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nzs
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« on: May 18, 2020, 03:30:46 AM »

Hi all, I am fairly new to maintaining my own reels and have not quite graduated to completely stripping them down to the smallest components.
I have changed out my Stradic drag washers for Carbontex ones, pulled apart my Curado 200e7 to get at a few problem areas etc, but when looking at a full spinning reel maintenance breakdown
I definitely dont feel ready to dive in without a guide to follow.

In saying that i have done some pretty fiddly work fixing electronics and things so am confident that if i have a visual guide of the process i can manage it fairly easily.
I recently bought a ceramic ball bearing kit for my Stradic 3000FJ from https://plaig.com.au/product/shimano-stradic-3000fj-ceramic-bearing-kit/?v=8e3eb2c69a18 and want to install these,
and at the same time do a full service of my reel as it has been used in salt water for several years, with only a very basic maintenance regime.
I also suspect I have over lubricated my reels for years and want to completely clean this thing out and re-grease/re-lube all the components optimally, rather than dousing them in oil.

Basically I have a few initial questions before I attempt this.

 1. The bearing supplier states that they ship ceramic bearings for smaller reels dry, should I lubricate these before installation and if so would a bit of cals universal reel grease do an acceptable job?
 
 2. I am having trouble finding a step by step cleaning, maintenance and reassembly guide for the Stradic 3000FJ, although I have found a few guides for larger Stradic FJ's, can i follow these in lieu
 of something specific to the 3000 size reels or do components change on the larger models?
 
 3. My Stradic has an intermittently noisy, grinding line roller bearing; I am unsure if the bearing kit comes with a replacement for this, and if not is there any chance I can bring it back to life with a good
 clean out and re-grease or should i just buy a new one? Shipping is a bit of a limiting factor to New Zealand during the whole COVID pandemic so it is tough finding certain parts.   

I realise this information is possibly available via a thorough scouring of google however this forum seems to be the most trusted source of information pertaining to this type of thing and I am sometimes
a bit dubious trusting a random youtube video versus asking a bunch of experts  Wink

Thanks in advance to anybody who can provide any insight
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philaroman
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« Reply #1 on: May 18, 2020, 06:41:07 AM »

plenty suggestions...  one at a time:

I recently bought a ceramic ball bearing kit for my Stradic 3000FJ from https://plaig.com.au/product/shimano-stradic-3000fj-ceramic-bearing-kit/?v=8e3eb2c69a18 and want to install these

send 'em back...  complete waste of money: full ceramics won't rust, so it's a nice overpriced frill for S/W, but what's the point of hybrid?
or ABEC 7, for that matter...  look at the RPM ranges for ABEC ratings -- nothing on a spinner comes close...  EVER!!!

well-made stainless is all you need:  ABEC-5 in key places / ABEC-3 for the nonsense, is actually MORE than you need

if you want to play w/ ceramics swap that silly kit for full-ceramic spool bearings for the Curado

NO GRASE!!!   dry, for max. speed / max. noise / max. wear

tiny drop of thinnest lightest synthetic oil to quiet things down & improve longevity, for minimal loss of casting distance
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philaroman
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« Reply #2 on: May 18, 2020, 07:43:56 AM »

I am having trouble finding a step by step cleaning, maintenance and reassembly guide for the Stradic 3000FJ, although I have found a few guides for larger Stradic FJ's, can i follow these in lieu
 of something specific to the 3000 size reels or do components change on the larger models?   

I'm pretty good w/ Stradics & decent w/ Curados (albeit, older than yours)

I can only remember 4000FH being somewhat different than smaller sizes of same model,
but nothing mindboggling...  more of a, "oh, isn't that curious"

IMPORTANT: the number of shims on the main gear can be a murky variable, only partially reflected by the schematic Sad 
they like to disguise their number & location, hide in lube, stick to things, then slide off &
escape INDIVIDUALLY/SEPARATELY/AT DIFFERENT TIMES!!!  ...can be fragile as foil, too
remove them CAREFULLY; COUNT THEM; if possible, even pay attention to which side is "up"
(one side may be more coppery / one silvery)
!!!RE-SHIMMING IS THE MOST TEDIOUS, ANNOYING, ...(long list of adjectives you don't want associated w/ 1st tear-down)



 3. My Stradic has an intermittently noisy, grinding line roller bearing; I am unsure if the bearing kit comes with a replacement for this, and if not is there any chance I can bring it back to life with a good
 clean out and re-grease or should i just buy a new one? Shipping is a bit of a limiting factor to New Zealand during the whole COVID pandemic so it is tough finding certain parts.   

that's usually the 1st to go (esp., in S/W), but that's the on you can reach easily
clean/lube entire line roller assembly, before you decide what needs replacement
the bearing used to be a very common size (prob., still is...
same as Shimano baitcaster handle knob bearings -- tons of after-market options)
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Gfish
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What? Me worry?


« Reply #3 on: May 18, 2020, 08:18:34 AM »

Have the 3000 & 8000 fj's. Bought some ball bearings to replace the bushings on the 8000. Small improvement in smoothness, but worth it? I don't know. Non-metal bushings won't corrode in saltwater, metal ball bearings will and take more maintenance. Not at all familiar with ceramic b.b.'s. From what I hear, the best cost/benifit ratio for ceramic's would be baitcast spool b.bearings.

These reels are relatively parts saturated like many Shimano's. Based on my experience, I'd recomend you disassemble one system at a time, service, then reassemble, then start on another system at a latter time, until you get used to it. For example; the line roller/bail system, next, the rotor/spool system and so on.

Your line roller might have at least 2 parts that are corrosion-toast. A tiny ball bearing and a stupid aluminium looking sleeve. These are what I had to replace the first time I tore mine down after saltwater use. There around 8 parts just for the LR system and it would be a great place to start. Another good thing to check would be the anti-reverse bearing under the rotor, especially the cam shaft attached to the on/off lever(another corrosion magnet).

The only significant diffrence between mine that I remember are the drag systems. The metal washers are better designed on the 3000. I also changed the felt washers to C-tex. The drag design is the major criticism I have for both(all?) fj's. Great function, but water get's down into them. The 8000 has significant corrosion damage in the bottom of the drag "well". Can't figure out a way to seal the system at the top.

Please let us know what's up with yours as you go down repair/service rabbit hole. To me, it's so much more satisifying than just "trash and buy new". And welcome to the forum!

Sorry Philaro, was typing as you posted.
 
« Last Edit: May 18, 2020, 08:22:29 AM by Gfish » Logged

Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!
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