First Timer DQ220

Started by sandbar, August 06, 2020, 10:28:37 PM

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sandbar

Hi Guys,
I'm a new old guy just starting on my first complete tear down project. I have disassembled a DQ 220 (except for two parts I haven't figured out yet) and want to ask for advice. I'm not sure if I need to remove the bearing from the pinion gear in order to properly service it and if so, how to do it without damaging the bearing. What should I do to restore the bearing?
I'm also unsure how to remove and service the ant-reverse lever. It operates well, so can I just oil it and move on?
What new parts should I buy in order to get the best results and where can I purchase them?.
I can already tell I'm gonna love doing this as another hobby. I want to be as thorough as I can when doing this so the results are as professional as possible.
Thank You in advance for your help. -Steve

happyhooker

Greetings, Steve, from Minnesota.  Lots of DQ fans here, so you'll be right at home.

Check the search function for the site, and you will find a lot of info about the 220.  It was the first DQ I got and rehabbed.

The pinion bearing is removable; whether you choose to do so is your choice.  It is probably easier to soak & clean if removed, but it can be cleaned and relubed on the shaft.

I suspect your issue with the AR lever likely revolves around the fact that the handle should be removed to break down all the parts for inspection and cleaning.  The handle is removed by punching out a roll pin; this has been discussed on the site previously.  A bit tricky, but not undoable.

There are folks more expert than I on this reel, and I am sure others will add to this post in the next day or two.

Frank

kjdunne

Sandbar,  Welcome from Southern New Jersey! Lots of info on the DQs here, and some real gurus to help you too. Help is on the way...

foakes

#3
Welcome aboard, Steve --

For the best results (better than new) -- the entire reel should come apart.  

All metal non-painted parts cleaned with a solvent such as lacquer thinner -- then burnished and polished for the least amount of friction.

Relubed with modern synthetic grease and oil -- test all functions -- should be good to go.

A DQ 220 seldom needs few, if any parts when doing a full service.  If doing a complete restore -- some new parts are advisable just because of longevity and appearance.

The most common parts needed might include a bail spring, trip lever spring, new drag washers, maybe a couple of other small parts -- but generally not too much.

What separates a typically accepted service from a very capable reel in every respect -- is attention to details.

This includes knowing exactly how the parts work together -- burnishing even the parts that do not show --proper lubricants -- and fine tuning.

Bearing should be removed and soaked in lacquer thinner -- then re-greased with a mixture of grease and oil.

A/R can be removed easily with a small socket, nut driver, or wrench.

I might have any of the parts you need.  Have around 120,000 new old stock DQ parts.

A 220 os one of my favorite reels.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

sandbar

Thanks for the input.
How do I remove the bearing from the shaft? It's being stubborn.

foakes

#5
Drill a hole in a block of wood -- drop the worm pinion and bearing assembly into the hole -- use a nylon faced hammer to separate the bearing and pinion.  1 or 2 solid blows will knock them apart.

Use the same method to set the bearing on the shaft after cleaning.  

It is also important to burnish the inside of the worm pinion -- plus the brass crank & rear pinion support bushing.

I just use a drill bit covered with "0000" steel wool.  Just takes a few seconds until the worm pinion starts to get warm -- then you are done.  Re-clean with fresh water -- dry -- light oil -- reassemble.  You will find out that the action of the mating metals will be smoother than most any new reel.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

sandbar

Thank You Fred.
How do you burnish all the other metal parts? Do you have a tool or tools for that?

foakes

#7
Drills, or by hand -- Dremel, fine wire wheel and 3" burnishing wheels on bench grinding stations.

I never use any coarser steel wool than "0000".

For me, it makes a difference to have everything set up and chucked into dedicated power stations or tools.  Less time wasted changing stuff over and re-chucking bits.  But that is just because I do a lot of reels.  It isn't necessary for everyone.

As an example, my grinder station has (3) machines set up with 8 heads.   Burnisher, fine wire wheel, coarser wire wheel, grinding stone, fine buffer, fine grinder, and (2) flex shafts.  Then a couple of battery powered drills to round out the rest.  Then -- just stuff done by hand.

Best,

Fred
The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

--------

The first rule of fishing is to fish where the fish are. The second rule of fishing is to never forget the first rule.

"Enjoy the little things in Life — For someday, you may look back — and realize that they were the big things"
                                                     Fred O.

sandbar

Thanks Fred
Can you help me out with this question please? I was going to put all the metal parts in lacquer thinner and wasn't sure what to do with the plastic sleeve on the bail arm. It feels like if I try to remove it before I dunk it, I may break it and need a new one. Is this an easily sourced part ? I assume it needs to be removed for proper cleaning.

sandbar

I managed to get it off in one piece.