The Jigmaster 500 S XN

[mo65]

   I wanted to try something a little different for my extra narrow Jiggy project. I thought the S model would be a great building platform, as savy Penn fans know this Jigmaster is constructed from some of the best stock parts produced over the years. I also needed to keep the cost down on this project, and by using the S as the donor, most of the quality parts were already sourced. I harvested the handle from my stock stash, so I saved a few bucks on that also. Considering the P21XN kit from Randy is only $134.70 shipped, I put this beauty together for about $200!
   I started with this fairly clean 500 S. I was hoping it might have new CF drags already installed, but it was loaded with the period correct brake lining discs. It didn't appear to have been used in saltwater...if it was...the owner rinsed his gear very well after use.



   I used the stock S model internals except for a stainless steel gear sleeve, carbon fiber drag washers(including Bryan's under gear washer set), and a double dog modification. Why would anyone fabricate a double dog bridge for a Jigmaster when Alan Chui sells one for 22 dollars? I'm the last American Hero...that's why.   Actually...I just plain enjoy the crafting work.



   I don't think I've seen a tutorial about double dogging a Jigmaster S, so I'll highlight a few steps here. Of coarse the Dremel will be needed, along with plenty of calm, slow and steady wins this race.



   I wanted to remove as little material as possible, so as to keep the bridge supported as much as possible. I trimmed very close to the bridge screw hole, leaving a bit of support directly behind the bridge screw/AR dog.




   The blue arrow indicates how I ground the dog to fit within the confines I made.



   A cigarette lighter provided the dog spring, and I notched the dog so that spring could get under the bridge to prevent flipping into orbit. The green arrow points to the notch I ground in the plate to hold the opposite end of the spring.



   The spring clears the spool well, and the dog clicks nice and snappy. I used a #15-60 dog shortened just a tad for simultaneous dog operation.



   Here is the engine all assembled and looking for a fight.



   The photo below shows the stock very short stand screws. Beside them I have some longer screws I've selected. There is no sense in using the short screws when the screws no longer have to sit flush with the stand. I like to take advantage of the frame's ability to accept a few more threads of strength.



   Same story with the plate screws. the longer screw on the left gives me more confidence than the stock screw on the right.



   I had a suspicion the S model plates might present a hiccup or two for the Tiburon kit, so I wasn't surprised when one arose. In the pic below the red arrow shows how the rivet protrudes a bit above the ring surface. This needs a "hole' to settle into on the frame. The white arrow points to the mark I made where our hole needs to be.



   Nothing is more unnerving than taking the Dremel to a brand spankin' new Tib frame!



   Wow, a little red Sharpie marker and it looks factory fresh again. If you fish in the salt, you better paint over that hole. I'll also grease it well.



   Speaking of grease, Tiburon advises you to grease the screw holes before assembly. A little preventive grease now helps avoid a huge corrosion issue later.



   Holy Buckets! Bolt on a vintage Penn #24-56 power handle and the thing rocks. Thanks for offering so many Tiburon kits Randy...they are fantastic!








   

[foakes]

Great job, Mike!

Best, Fred

[Darin Crofton]

Another beauty, Mike, well done buddy!

[Brendan]

     Very nice.
Brendan.

[Bryan Young]

Nice work Mo

[Swami805]

Nice job, clever way to gets second dog in there supported by a bridge screw, should be nice and strong.  Good looking reel!

[Rancanfish]

Good job showing the red on red example.  It really helps seeing different combos.

I was just looking thru my Jiggy's yesterday.  When I get my delivery I'll be trying mine on an early dark maroon side plate set.  I have a red frame with black plates put together already. 

May be going rock fishing this week end so I may get to check it out in action.

[Ron Jones]

Great job brother,
Sal showed a reel once that used a 500S head plate and a 500 tail plate to not have the swap spool feature. One of these days I'll build a few of those.
Ronald Jones

[Rothmar2]

Very nice Mo!

[Vintage Offshore Tackle]

Love it Mo!  Thank you for your business, and for the plug.

Randy

[Maxed Out]

 Nice work Mo. The 2nd dog looks just right. You say cost was $200, but factor in the leftover spool, seat, and bars from donor and say $25 easy sell. So $175 is your final cost. The power handle is awesome and 100% early 50's. The huge oil port on the knob is the tell

[vilters]

that's a great looking reel, and very well engineered. thanks for posting that beauty. the 500s is my favorite jigmaster.

[mhc]

Clean work on the dog Mo and a good color match between the plates and the tib kit - nice reel.

Mike

[wailua boy]

Nice work and a very sharp looking reel. Thanks for posting.

[Donnyboat]

Ay Mike, great engineering, thanks for explaining it in detail, keep well stay safe, cheers Don.