Penn international 20 stiff

[Scubajb22]

Hi, I'm hoping someone has run into this before and can point me in the right direction, I'm not that new to penn international's I have a few 50's, this 20 though I just completely rebuilt, new bearings, new HT100 drag washer(I got the washer that screws onto your existing drive plate not the updated drive plate you have to replace the drive shaft with). I also had to replace the clicker assembly. I cleaned this whole thing and lubed everything appropriately.  I have been in and out of it several times and can not find anything out of place but it is stiff  reeling in even if reeling in free spool. The clicker does not make any sound when the drag wheel is set, but if I release the pressure of the drag wheel to nothing the. My clicker works and it is easier to reel. Any ideas? I did buy this reel as a basket case but looking at diagrams I don't feel I'm missing any parts?

[Scubajb22]

Also wanted to note that I am getting ready to put a fish winch on this reel to deep drop with so I do want to be able to crank the drag down pretty tight on this reel.

[alantani]

a couple of possibilities -

a bad pinion bearing - when the reel in in free, the handle cranks easily.  as you increase the drag, you will notice more resistance as you crank the handle.

a drive shaft that is binding - with the side plate off, you crank the handle and you feel resistance.  something is over shimmed.  there is usually a slight amount of play in the drive shaft, between the main gear and the handle. 

the spool is binding - a common cause for some reels is a rod clamp bolt that is screwed in too far and is rubbing against the spool.  you likely would have spotted this one immediately.  otherwise it would have to rub against the frame or side plated somewhere.  look for wear mark on the spool. 

that's all i can think of offhand.  can you take a look and let us know?  thanks!  alan

[Scubajb22]

So I replaced all the bearings with fast eddie bearings So I don't think it's that and I haven't mounted the rod clamp yet either so not that, the drive shaft makes sense as about 1/3 of the turn I can feel the gears through the handle, so with that said what is the right direction to fixing that? Replacement? Really hoping to use this reel this weekend.

[alantani]

yeah, the answer is in there, somewhere.  reels are basically foot bone to ankle bone, ankle bone to leg bone, leg bone to knee bone....  you get the ideal.  it's in there somewhere. 

[Donnyboat]

Yes, and the hook fits in the jaw bone, cheers Don.

[UKChris1]

I have an Int 30 II that sounds like it has a similar issue. All is super good but for about 1/4 turn of the handle (always in the same spot) it feels as though the gears mesh a 'bit tight' if you get what I mean. Nothing is worn or wonky but it is there. Oddly, it is less pronounced when the drag is higher.

I'm thinking of tearing out the main and pinion gears and replacing them with the ones from an old-style Int 30 (chrome bars) as that doesn't bind at all. Be interesting to see the outcome.

I'm thinking that if the old gears bind in the new reel it would seem as though the II sideplate is the problem in not aligning the gears correctly but if the new gears bind in the old reel then there is a fault with either the main gear or pinion.

Well, given the state of things at present, I have time to play 

[UKChris1]

Well I've just spent a jolly couple of hours playing with these reels. I now know what the problem is but have yet to resolve it fully.

I found:
- both reels (older chrome bar Int 30 and Int 30 II) bind with the main gear from the 30 II, whichever pinion gear is used;
- neither reel binds with the main gear from the original 30, whichever pinion is used.
Conclusion: the main gear from the Int 30 II is duff - it must be fractionally oversized.

I've installed the older main gear in the 30 II and left the pinion as supplied. Result is an International 30 II that works as it ought. But, the older 30 will not turn at all with the duff main gear in place. Hmmm.

I have a pretty tatty-looking 30W II and I will try the duff main gear in that to see if it will work, in which case I'll swap it over in the hope that the 30W II will work in the old 30 and the duff main gear from the 30 II will work in the tatty 30W II, but not today.

Question - if it won't, can I (carefully) reduce the circumference of the duff gear with an abrasive (wet 'n' dry, whetstone etc) to get it to work ok?

[Gfish]

I hope it works, but good gear mesh is difficult if something is the slightest bit off. If you get it close or working better on the tatty one, maybe some abrasive polish would help to work it in.
Lookin forward to hearing how it works out.
Also looking forward to more of anything you post, because I'd love to pick-up on some more of those "Real English"-english expressions you use.

[UKChris1]

Hi Gfish,

I was going to have a go at it today, but bought a big bag of grass seed instead. I need to patch the dead bits in the lawn with new grass, and the pigeons keep eating the seed! Yesterday I kept hearing 'pop' noises in the distance which I think means someone is doing their best to reduce the pigeon population in our locality with a 12-bore. They have some way to go...

[UKChris1]

Success!
I moved the main gear that seems 'oversize' and grinding in two different reels to a 30TW that is somewhat beaten up cosmetically and moved that main gear from that reel into the original 30. Both work without trouble now.
I conclude that the pinion gear of the 30TW was at the lower limit of the spec and meshes ok with the duff main gear that seems at the upper limit of the spec. Either way, both these and the original Int II 30 are now fine.
Phew

[Donnyboat]

Very interesting Chris, thanks for the info, cheers Don.