8500SS build

[JasonGotaProblem]

You've given me a lot to think about. I might be back to the drawing board on some of it. However it seems like many of the penn ss setups with upgraded AR systems tend to at least look like they're working in unison. Looks like i have some reading to do because I don't understand the contradiction.

What about double silent dogs with a light spring assist?

Re bail modification. I want to keep the full bail wire intact. I wanna remove the nub from the stem. Picture is worth a thousand words, see below:

[jurelometer]

I haven't thought about the SS series specifically, but it works something like this:

Double dogs will never engage in unison.  One will always connect before the other, and not always the same one.  If the mechanism is fairly crude (like an SS series spinner) there is a pretty big gap.  In order for the second dog to contribute, the first has to give.  If there is enough elasticity in the system, then both dogs will contribute.  But if the system is rigid, then something has to actually deform before the other dog can help (e.g.,  a dog post hole deforming), which means that you are pushing past the limit of the dog/pawl.  Since the lead dog will probably switch off (e.g., due to a  a slightly eccentric pawl) both will begin failing.  If the failure is fairly benign, then you will get the load sharing you desire.  But if the damage is sufficient, you basically end up with the same damage that you would have with alternating dogs, without the benefit.  It depends on the reel design.  Reels with pressed in posts for the dog shaft are kinda screwed once the post gets loosened.

Second:  In order to bang on the dogs, the fish has to swim.  The more slack that you give it, the more the fish can accelerate, smacking the  pawl against the dog harder.  Alternating dogs cut this distance in half, an each dog will only get half as many whacks over the life of the reel.  There is a thingy in physics about the affect of impact vs normal force, but I forgot how it works. But the gist of it was that impact can be more damaging.  If I want to drive a nail,  I will hit with the hammer.  I don't push on it.

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Silent dogs sort of suck in terms of reliability, and they need bigger teeth to engage (more backplay).  The only benefit is that they are silent.  If you want to go with a lighter spring, you can use standard dogs.  It just requires a bit more diligence on maintenance, which is also required of silent dogs.

My guess is that combing dog ears and springs would be  net loss, but it is just an opinion.  I could be wrong.
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I understand what you mean now about the bail- you want to remove the bail whacker.   Other folks have done this.   If there is enough room, maybe a small  cap, so that this can be reversed if you change your mind later?

-J

[oc1]

Those posts for tripping the bail make a loud thud.  If the bail is already snug against the post, it is hard to turn the handle.  But, there are the advantages of being able to see where the bail is in relation to the post and being able to easily close it manually.  After making semi-conscious adjustments to the way you use the reel in order to avoid the loud thump and hang-up, muscle memory will take hold.  Manually closing the bail every time will become second nature and as smooth as silk.

Or, you can cut it off.
-steve

[JasonGotaProblem]

I haven't thought about the SS series specifically, but it works something like this:

Double dogs will never engage in unison.  One will always connect before the other, and not always the same one.  If the mechanism is fairly crude (like an SS series spinner) there is a pretty big gap.  In order for the second dog to contribute, the first has to give.  If there is enough elasticity in the system, then both dogs will contribute.  But if the system is rigid, then something has to actually deform before the other dog can help (e.g.,  a dog post hole deforming), which means that you are pushing past the limit of the dog/pawl.  Since the lead dog will probably switch off (e.g., due to a  a slightly eccentric pawl) both will begin failing.  If the failure is fairly benign, then you will get the load sharing you desire.  But if the damage is sufficient, you basically end up with the same damage that you would have with alternating dogs, without the benefit.  It depends on the reel design.  Reels with pressed in posts for the dog shaft are kinda screwed once the post gets loosened.

Second:  In order to bang on the dogs, the fish has to swim.  The more slack that you give it, the more the fish can accelerate, smacking the  pawl against the dog harder.  Alternating dogs cut this distance in half, an each dog will only get half as many whacks over the life of the reel.  There is a thingy in physics about the affect of impact vs normal force, but I forgot how it works. But the gist of it was that impact can be more damaging.  If I want to drive a nail,  I will hit with the hammer.  I don't push on it.

Man for some reason I thought this would be a simple project. But literally nothing ever is.

Silent dogs sort of suck in terms of reliability, and they need bigger teeth to engage (more backplay).  The only benefit is that they are silent.  If you want to go with a lighter spring, you can use standard dogs.  It just requires a bit more diligence on maintenance, which is also required of silent dogs.

My guess is that combing dog ears and springs would be  net loss, but it is just an opinion.  I could be wrong.

Ok so nevermind on the silent dogs. Sooner or later I'll run thru all my bad ideas and eventually settle on the good ones.

I understand what you mean now about the bail- you want to remove the bail whacker.   Other folks have done this.   If there is enough room, maybe a small  cap, so that this can be reversed if you change your mind later?

-J

Those posts for tripping the bail make a loud thud.  If the bail is already snug against the post, it is hard to turn the handle.  But, there are the advantages of being able to see where the bail is in relation to the post and being able to easily close it manually.  After making semi-conscious adjustments to the way you use the reel in order to avoid the loud thump and hang-up, muscle memory will take hold.  Manually closing the bail every time will become second nature and as smooth as silk.

Or, you can cut it off.
-steve

Man I just want it gone. I want the bail to flip when I manually flip it and at no other time. I've been known to disable the auto trip on my other reels. This will be is the first one where doing so involves a hacksaw. I will likely leave a little bump because philaroman has scared me about structural integrity and if I snap a stem and need a new housing after spending this much time polishing I'm gonna freaking lose my mind.

[philaroman]

I understand exactly what you mean,
but err on the side of caution...  measure twicethrice, cut once...  and all that good crap
figure an imaginary line that would allow the bail to clear & cut well above!!!
get down to the "right height" w/ a hand file, SLOWLY, while you round things off & make 'em pretty
you can always remove more, but can't put the filings back on

[JasonGotaProblem]

Progress so far. Gave it a few passes with the 1000 grit paper. Gonna hit 1500 then 2000 then on to the polish. Oh and I cut the whacker.

Gonna try my hand at cutting this ratchet this weekend. Knock on wood this thing is starting to wrap up.

[mhc]

Looking good Jason - you're putting a lot of effort into this reel, I'm keen to see how it turns out. I've modified a few reels over recent years and one thing I've learnt is it always takes me a lot longer than I first estimate.

Mike

[ReelFishingProblems]

You're making some reel progress. Now is the fun/frustrating part. I kind of sped through the sanding process with my 704 and left some deeper scratches from course sandpaper on the bottom of the rotor cup. I never got them fully out before polishing it. It still shines but it is less than perfect by a lot. It drives me nuts.

[JasonGotaProblem]

You're making some reel progress. Now is the fun/frustrating part. I kind of sped through the sanding process with my 704 and left some deeper scratches from course sandpaper on the bottom of the rotor cup. I never got them fully out before polishing it. It still shines but it is less than perfect by a lot. It drives me nuts.

I had to make the tough call after 800 grit. There were still some big scratches. I decided yes they would bother me so I went back to 320 grit and went ham. Now its nice and smooth.

However I feel like i need to remind myself this is for the beach not the shelf. Sooner or later there will be scratches. But I want it nice and smooth at least once.

[JasonGotaProblem]

Knock on wood this thing is starting to wrap up.

Didn't knock on wood hard enough. I knocked over my Tupperware on the porch. parts went everywhere, and there's a potentially unforgivable chip on the spool. Some bad scratches elsewhere but i buffed those out. But i may need a new spool. Don't tell my wife.

[ReelFishingProblems]

Ouch
Sorry brother

[JasonGotaProblem]

If I'm going to a full time double sprung dog setup that will never be disengaged, , do i need the eccentric assemblies and switches or can those just be deleted?

if I can delete them, maybe that lower switch becomes a drain plug? It's not the lowest point in the gear box but a small channel could be cut. just a thought.

Also, I finally showed this to my wife. Unsurprisingly she doesnt get it. Basically her reaction was "if thats what's keeping you entertained lately I can think of a lot worse things to spend time on, but I don't see the point. Why not just fish with a new reel?"
I'm sure many of you have experienced similar with your significant others. Do they ever get it? She has no interest in fishing whatsoever but is happy to rearrange the meal plan to eat the ones I bring home while they're fresh (and sometimes even cooks them for me!)

[JasonGotaProblem]

Scale of 1-10 how cheesy would it be to resin in or otherwise securely attach this mini shark tooth that I found to the rotor? I'm expecting this reel to see a bit of shark action. Reasons why it's dumb are welcome.

[philaroman]

"to the rotor" part is questionable -- otherwise, kinda' cool...  just don't get carried away

I'm sure the Bedazzled 300 Guy started w/ just one rhinestone 

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14701.0

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20979.0

didn't anyone save a photo?  they seem to be "scrubbed" from the web (yet, burned into my retina)

[JasonGotaProblem]

"to the rotor" part is questionable -- otherwise, kinda' cool...  just don't get carried away

I'm sure the Bedazzled 300 Guy started w/ just one rhinestone 

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=14701.0

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20979.0

didn't anyone save a photo?  they seem to be "scrubbed" from the web (yet, burned into my retina)

Man, the comments make me either wish I could see the pics, or glad I couldn't. Some people have too much time on their hands, and use it to do weird stuff. Some of the car builds I've seen shop owners come up with really leave me scratching my head. But i guess when you have 15 fully serious builds you can make the 16th-25th goofy.

I mean heck, some might say I went too gaudy by polishing mine (i may be inclined to agree). It seems to be more of a spectrum than a line in the sand.