alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Whisker SS
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
August 02, 2021, 05:49:32 AM *
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Author Topic: Whisker SS  (Read 8285 times)
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foakes
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« Reply #90 on: July 20, 2021, 12:09:07 AM »

Sure, Guys

Wont be until tomorrow.  Needed to go down to the Valley this afternoon and this evening.

Best, Fred
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D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

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philaroman
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« Reply #91 on: July 20, 2021, 12:14:04 AM »

Jason, take a real close look at that line roller
can't tell scratches from shadows from reflections, in photos
if not smooth -- bigger issue than spool lip, IMO
if not sure, postpone getting spool
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JasonGotaPenn
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« Reply #92 on: July 20, 2021, 01:11:38 AM »

Jason, take a real close look at that line roller
can't tell scratches from shadows from reflections, in photos
if not smooth -- bigger issue than spool lip, IMO
if not sure, postpone getting spool
Good looking out. It was actually cobwebs. God only knows what I'm in for on this one.

Wiped it off and looks to be intact. I believe the modern iterations of this reel have a SiC line roller. This looks like my ss700 roller. Maybe its similar.
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philaroman
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« Reply #93 on: July 20, 2021, 01:47:52 AM »

cobwebs are GOOD...  i.e., sat undisturbed for years
wonder if Shimano small SiC roller from early 90's might work -- bail-head looks very similar
though when they copied each other's designs
they might have made a point of changing dimensions  Roll Eyes
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« Reply #94 on: July 20, 2021, 11:59:55 AM »

Turns out the surface of the line roller is just fine. No chips or scratches or scuffs. Its still not rolling freely but I didnt put much effort in under it, by the time I got to that stage of service it was nearing 2am so I had to put a pin in it for now.

There seems to be a common theme for me buying these reels on eBay. Namely the spool shaft screw was stripped (but removable this time), and the previous owner had serviced it not with grease but with a dry graphite lube. It was otherwise in good shape internally other than it was missing the washer from the bottom of worm shaft. So I gotta order or improv that now. By the look of the grooves on the worm retainer (the Y shaped thing below it), it's been missing for a while. It's likely an easy part to lose.

And I noticed a few other differences between this and my modern (non-Japanese-made) model as well. I could be completely off base, but that main gear looks machined not cast. The sideplate is metal not graphite. And the inner rod of the worm shaft is brass while the metal around it appears aluminum.

Pic below wasnt intended to highlight the spool lip, but it sure as heck did. That thing was rough. I took some 1000 grit and 2000 grit sandpaper to it last night. Its a lot smoother if still imperfect, but the lip is no longer gold.

Fred, if you stumble upon a drag cap I'm interested in that as well. Mine appears to be off center. Its the cap itself causing the problem. The stud with threads inside appears bent.


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« Last Edit: July 20, 2021, 01:54:03 PM by JasonGotaPenn » Logged

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foakes
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« Reply #95 on: July 20, 2021, 02:46:45 PM »

I doubt that I would have any of those drag knobs

Just shipped a 2100 pound load of reels and parts last week

And am only keeping the DQ, Mitchell, ABU/Zebco Cardinal, ABU, and Penn spinner reels and parts.

Will look for the spools this morning.

Best, Fred
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D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

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Im not striving to be the guy with the most parts in the graveyard
philaroman
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« Reply #96 on: July 20, 2021, 04:00:04 PM »

are metal frame & sideplate BOTH tapped for reasonably fine thread?
that's an SiC roller & big-boy brass pinion -- correct?
wonder if that's due to bigger size, or if you found the "goldilocks age" for Japan-made

after fully polished, let the spool-lip "heal" away from salt/moisture,
for however long it takes to get to a dull grey -- that's natural AlO2
not as good as anodized, but better than freshly-polished & shiney
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foakes
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« Reply #97 on: July 20, 2021, 07:07:09 PM »

Here is a new one, Jason $10 + $5 shipping.

Some of these still have prices dating to tackle shops from 25 - 35 years ago ranging from $32 to $64.

Here are (3) new ones for the 750, Mike $10 each + $5 shipping.

Pulling out any spools from the bins that are not DQ, ABU, Cardinal, Mitchell, or Penn spinners.

In just a few minutes 13 bins in the driveway.  Probably another bin of 150 in the other shops that Ill gather up today.

Possibly 75% new 25% used (+/- 10%j.

Daiwa, Shimano, Ryobi, Okuma, Shakespeare, and many, many older brands.

Metal, graphite, sizes from 500 micros up to 9000s.

Going to just count them up and offer them to the Ohana for 50 to 90 cents apiece as a one lot purchase.

Shipping via actual cost for bulk boxes.  Shipping wont be too bad.

Best, Fred


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« Last Edit: July 20, 2021, 07:12:24 PM by foakes » Logged

The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

---------

EVERYTHING is available if I have it

Im not striving to be the guy with the most parts in the graveyard
JasonGotaPenn
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« Reply #98 on: July 20, 2021, 07:43:48 PM »

Fred, you're awesome. Sending PM.
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foakes
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« Reply #99 on: July 20, 2021, 08:01:17 PM »

OK, Jason Done

A suggestion

Chuck up your old spool in a drill smooth the upper lip with 3 grits of Emory Tape ending with about 400 to 600.

Then finish off with 0000 steel wool.

Wash it off dry completely.

Then back in the drill chuck again for a final treatment with Nevr-Dull followed up with a micro-fleece cloth.

It will make a great back up pre-filled with line in your tackle box.

Best, Fred
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The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

---------

EVERYTHING is available if I have it

Im not striving to be the guy with the most parts in the graveyard
JasonGotaPenn
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« Reply #100 on: July 21, 2021, 01:32:35 PM »

Oh I assure you I had no intention of throwing it away, though I'll admit using a drill to speed up the process hadnt occurred to me.  Do i just keep it on the spool shaft?

A friend and I have been talking about doing some small scale DIY anodizing. This is about the strongest candidate for a test subject I've seen thus far.
I'm a physics nerd. While I may make myself sound foolish on here, I tended to do alright in the lab. Plus my wife is a chemistry teacher, so I have access to a skilled helper (I might become the helper, she's pretty good).

An additional difference between this and my SS700 is that the SS1300's middle metal drag washer is eared, while the one on my 700 is hexagonal. Is there some noteworthy strength difference between the two designs? This might not be the thread for that question.
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foakes
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« Reply #101 on: July 21, 2021, 02:57:02 PM »

Oh I assure you I had no intention of throwing it away, though I'll admit using a drill to speed up the process hadnt occurred to me.  Do i just keep it on the spool shaft?

No, the best way is to use a long bolt with metal and nylon washers and locker nuts.

You want a solid connection to the spool without damaging it or doing the spool shaft any harm.

Drill press works best but I generally use a hand drill since it is at hand, instead of going to the outer shop so it is quick, easy, and effective.

Best, Fred

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The Official, Un-Authorized Service and Restoration Center for quality vintage spinning reels.

D-A-M Quick, Penn, Mitchell, and ABU/Zebco Cardinals

---------

EVERYTHING is available if I have it

Im not striving to be the guy with the most parts in the graveyard
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