alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Boat - Electrical Issues
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 22, 2020, 10:49:58 AM *
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Author Topic: Boat - Electrical Issues  (Read 759 times)
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Gobi King
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« Reply #15 on: September 27, 2020, 05:40:19 AM »

Brew -

The current scenario is the result of taking the boat to the top shop in west michigan owned by the brother a famous pro bass fisherman who has a line of strike king lures named after him.

I plan to own this boat for few years more, unless the power to be has a lottery win for me soon. So I want to know the wiring inside out.

The boat came with a el cheapo lowrance, I had the shop put in 2 hummingbird Onix 10 SIs,

Well that you see in the bus is the result of them CUTTING the lowrance cable, leaving the positive connector there but pulling the fuse and moving it across where they connected the fishfinder in the helm.

But there is ANOTHER fishfisher on the port side, where is the fuse for that?
I traced the wire yesterday and it it not pretty, I need to take a few beta blockers to slow my heart down,

The horn, I can work around by carrying a manual source of sound

Today, I am going to address the bilge and the horn,

Once I fix the bilge and horn,

I am going to work on an upgrade:
Add another battery for the fishfinders and lights, add another bus below the port side console (being midway) and draw off that for stuff like electric reels

Col - I am taking notes and drawing up the current changes to the factory harness. It will be good to have for future, I tend to forget stuff :-)
« Last Edit: September 27, 2020, 05:41:52 AM by Gobi King » Logged

Shibs - aka The Gobi King
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« Reply #16 on: September 27, 2020, 06:06:32 AM »

Cheesy but maybe we can help you on the Zoom call tomorrow - I know Lee is a wizard with electrical. - john

I was busy yesterday and missed the call.   I will be gone for 12 days, I will be on the 8 day LR trip, leaving KF on Thursday but will join in when I get back.


Right after installing a shutoff switch I install a fuse block.  Blue Sea System is my preferred manufacture and try to avoid Peco.


They also make ones with less circuits but I like to have the extra for future additions.  They have a ground buss.



Selector/Shutoff Switch ACR combo.  You can also get them separately.



« Last Edit: September 27, 2020, 06:36:13 AM by Keta » Logged

Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain
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« Reply #17 on: September 27, 2020, 08:24:04 AM »

The company that did the work did a crappy job. All connectors should be heat shrink connectors. The ones I see do not belong on a boat. Remember every electrical component has to be fused.

Keith
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« Reply #18 on: September 27, 2020, 09:08:12 AM »

The company that did the work did a crappy job. All connectors should be heat shrink connectors. The ones I see do not belong on a boat. Remember every electrical component has to be fused.

Keith

And preferably glue lined heat shrink.  It is not as important on a fresh water boat but it is the sign of a quality wiring job.
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Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.
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« Reply #19 on: September 28, 2020, 10:36:17 AM »


Yes, it is bit of a mess,

Thanks for suggesting the shrink wrap.

I bought adhesive shrink wrap of amazon

Update:

- Horn - working now, not sure what or how I did it, must have been a ground thing, I took the battery off and recharged and regen'd it.

- Bilge - did not work and ran out of time to debug it.

I ran out of time and sunlight, drove the boat back to storage and left it there.


Additional task - I installed Minn Kota I-pilot upgrade on my trolling motor. My youngest helped :-)


ACR - I want to keep the loads off the main crank battery, I have an onboard alternator charger which is capable to directing charge to 2 additional batteries at 10 A max each,

So an ACR might not be necessary in my setup.

The only scenario that I can see that I need to prep for is if the main dies for any reason and I want to crank off the aux batteries (they are 10 ft and 6 ft away from the main battery.

To solve this I am going to carry a jumper cable in my goodie bag.
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« Reply #20 on: September 28, 2020, 10:08:51 PM »

Hi Gobi, I will be fitting an ACR on mine during this rebuild.
 An ACR, effectively, managed your start and house battery. It directs charge as such, To where it's needed so that it will always have enough charge for starting purposed, it will switch when your start battery is charged, auto, over to your house battery.  That's only a laymans explanation  Grin, But it pretty well takes the thinking out of battery management..
  One other feature is they regulate/ stop surge, which is great if you run sensitive equipment, like an expensive sounder.
So, I think the ACR is a must, especially if your going wide out and really want to make sure you've got enough charge to get started.


Col
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« Reply #21 on: September 30, 2020, 08:46:40 AM »

ACR -
1. I have the Minn Kota Alternator Charger already installed and that serves the job of an isolator, does not combine the batteries though.

2. I am going to carry a jumper cable in the boat to jump the main from the aux batts if needed.


Problems:
1. Sonar and Light are all on the main batt now
2. I have only 1 aux batt for the trolling motor [55lb minn kota]

Solutions:
1. Add 2nd Aux battery
2. Move Sonar power to aux battery
3. Add bus to under port side dash and add master ON/OFF switch

Port Side Bus
1. This will support Sonars, aux nav lights, led flood lights and electric reels


Charging/Discharging and banks

1. Motor has a Max output of 35A
2. Minn Kota Charges 10 A Max per channel - 2 channels
3. Trolling motor draws 9 A @ #2 speed setting.


Master On/Off switches for Bus - what are my options here?


* minn_alt_charger_main_batt.jpg (225.39 KB, 708x944 - viewed 16 times.)
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