Shimano Torium 14

Started by Eddie Hernandez, September 27, 2020, 11:48:32 PM

Previous topic - Next topic

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Eddie Hernandez

Hi All working on a Shimano Torium 14 and I'm unable to remove the handle side cover plate! I Removed the handle star and screws from what I've seen and read I should be a able to just lift it up. Has anyone had this problem? Could the plate be seized on?

alantani

pull the star off, remove all the screws, then hold the side plate and tap the drive shaft.  it should start to loosen.   :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

sabaman1

#2
Be careful of the little star drag clicker underneath the star, remove the star slowly and you will see it on the side of the drive shaft its spring loaded and may come flying off into oblivion. There is a technique to hold it in place with a small flathead screwdriver placed down the drive shaft and pushed to the side. Also spray a little wd40 on the corrosion on top of the star to loosen it free. Good luck!
JIM

Eddie Hernandez

Thx Alan- I gave it a few love taps with a small rubber mallet and it came loose! Had to also tap out the spool .This reel was completely dry inside zero.grease! The clutch lever was not working on this reel but seems to be freed up and functioning after disassembly. The spool bearing was toast also. Going to upgrade the drags and change the spool bearing.
Thx!!!!

Eddie Hernandez

Sabaman- I Removed the star and had no issues ? Nothing shot across the room thank god! Appreciate the heads up!

Hamachi

#5
The base of your anti reverse sleeve (or whatever it's called) appears to be broken. Not certain though. Hard to tell.
The rail is your friend, no zing pow, on the iron wenches, I like broccoli!

Eddie Hernandez

#6
Still working on this reel :-\. The initial problem with this reel was was a seized clutch lever. After disassembly it would click over but I noticed it had some movement in it( screw is very tight) is that normal? Not sure if my buddy was trying to force the lever over and caused some damage? Of course he will deny it!  I completely assembled this reel but after testing it and clicking over the lever I noticed  it was inconsistent and there was a delay in the engagement of the reel my ocd kicked in  and i opened it up again.
Was it the lever(ecentric) or the spool not sitting as it should? Any advice gladly appreciated. I took apart the clutch lever assembly and included some photos of a plastic part that i think may be damaged from trying to force the lever over. Maybe the small protrusion that sticks out got damaged and not catching on the notch to keep it from moving? ???

Cor

#7
I have just started to service two Torium 14's for a friend.   Have never opened these reels before.

They look 100% outside but inside not too good.    The one the handle could not rotate, AR bearing was completely rusted solid.
Would not clean up so I decided to tap the AR out with 2 sockets, but what happened was the cage came out and the outer part of the bearing is still stuck in the sideplate.

How do I remove the remainder of the bearing as there is nothing to grip or push on?   The photo is deceptive because of the angle it shows what appears to be a ridge to to push on.

How does the bush under the drive shaft come of?

Any ideas will be appreciated.

Thanks
Cornelis

alantani

the bushing is easy.  it should tap out from the other side.  you can also leave it because it doesn't really need servicing. 

the outer case for the anti-reverse roller bearing can be a nightmare.  first you need to socket that is just a little larger than the anti-reverse roller bearing itself.  if you just go pounding away, you can bend the flimsy aluminum that the AR bearing housing is rivetted into.  use this socked to support the housing so that you don't bend the side plate. 



then you will have to fashion a tool to hammer at.  this center punch was ground down to a sharp angle.  oh, and of course you will need a hammer.



the next thing you will need is a dremel with a small cutting wheel.  you can see here how big they are when they are new.  i save the small pieces because sometimes i need to get into some tight places.  what you will be doing is to grind away at the inside bottom of the outer case of the AR bearing, creating a little ridge so that you can hammer with your ground down center punch.  alternatively, you can grind away at the plastic housing of the side plate, just above the AR bearing outer case, so that you can get a spot to again hammer away.  i sure hope this makes sense.



and rarely, you have a spot where you can drill.  this is an old daiwa saltist.  use a 1/16th inch drill to drill two holes, then use a 1/8th inch punch to pound out the outer case of the AR bearing.  this will not work for your reel, but it will work for the daiwa.  it also works if you are trying to remove the right main side plate bearing of an avet reel!!!!







hope this helps!



send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

Cor

Thank you Alan.

The rollers and cage has been completely destroyed by rust, so they are already gone.

I have done the old gold Trinidad before, carefully and that was not a serious issue.   They have a similar side plate construction as this small Torium.   This one has a ridge or lip on the outer handle side that is the same size as the outer edge of the bearing case, which leave zero place to get any device on to the bearing case.   As I've said my photo creates an incorrect impression of a small protrusion that you could push or hammer on, not so!

As I read your suggestions, the following notes/comments come to mind:-

The punch you've made looks like a good idea and grinding the a case where another drive shaft bearing fits a bit scary, but can work as long as you leave enough for the normal bearing to sit and slide on.

Drilling a hole through the bearing housing will be very difficult....... ahh, I see you say it won't work, but it still is an idea.

I somehow would prefer to try to cut the old AR bearing outer ring, but it is very hard material and 5 minutes with a small hacksaw blade and a file, left no indentation.

I have already told the reel owner that I will make one reel fully functional with parts from the other and then try to get the old AR bering remains out somehow, but at significant risk of damage to the side plate of the reel.

If I succeed Ill post here how I did it.

I would not purchase this reel for any money, it has at least 3 very difficult areas to work on!

PS  You have the benefit of years of wisdom and experience required to tap out the drive shaft bushing which I seem to lack. :D :D :D
Cornelis

SteveL

#10
I finally found the post on one of the sections here about removing a stuck IAR where there was no surface available to press the bearing out.  This should work on the IAR outer casing as well.

Quote from: ReelClean on February 26, 2015, 04:07:00 AM
Find a washer say 2mm wider than the ID of the inner diameter of the bearing cage on the bottom.  Grind the sides of the washer and make it an oval shape with the width about, say, 4 or 5 mm less than the cage ID. With abit of adjustment you should be able to tilt and slide the washer inside the bearing, then it should lay flat on the cage and allow you something to beat on to drift it out.

Best I can think of....

alternatively, just slide a screwdriver in there and flog it out going side to side if you don't really want the bearing ;D

cheers
Steve


Quote from: Kayote on February 27, 2015, 09:13:14 PM
Just wanted to follow up on the roller clutch bearing that was stuck in my Trinidad 14. I tried making a tool and that didn't work because of my tool making skills. Tried forcing it out with a screwdriver and I could see myself damaging the side plate and couldn't budge it. Grinding down the oval washer worked like a charm. An 8 mm socket fit the hole perfectly and I set a 22 mm socket under the side plate for support and lightly tapped it out. Thanks everybody. That was incredibly frustrating. I had to walk away and come back to it later. Now I own it. Thanks again. I included a couple shots from the process. The last shot is how I crusted up the reel last summer.






Cor

Thanks Steve, another good idea.   Initially I could not follow what was done there, then I clicked on the "Quote from: Kayote on 28-02-2015, 07:13:14" and the link was intact and took me directly to the original post.

Still not 100% but I think I got it.

Ill report back here.    I have extremely little space above the bearing outer and the reel side?

Cornelis

SteveL

What is the ID of the stuck IAR casing?

I don't know that this would work, but if you found some conical spring washers with OD about the same as your ID, a socket head cap screw and a nut to compress them, they might catch enough of the sleeve to pull or push it out.   If you found the conical washers that would work, you would stack them ()()

I don't know that they would be strong enough to push it out, but if you got a stack of rubber washers between two metal washers  that you could compress with a nut and bolt, you can put a lot of outward pressure on the sides for friction.

As a worst case, I might clean and degrease  the casing, melt some wax to plug the end close to the sideplate, then fill it with epoxy or epoxy putty and let dry over night.  Just don't epoxy the casing to the sideplate, making a bad situation even worse.

Cor

#13
Quote from: SteveL on February 16, 2021, 09:41:04 AM
...........
As a worst case, I might clean and degrease  the casing, melt some wax to plug the end close to the sideplate, then fill it with epoxy or epoxy putty and let dry over night.  Just don't epoxy the casing to the sideplate, making a bad situation even worse.
Here we have a saying "a farmer always makes a plan"   you must be in the farming business. ???

I like the epoxy idea, but very scary.

My mind is occupied elsewhere at the moment, too many irons in the fire.
Cornelis

SteveL

Quote from: Cor on February 16, 2021, 09:56:18 AM
Quote from: SteveL on February 16, 2021, 09:41:04 AM
...........
As a worst case, I might clean and degrease  the casing, melt some wax to plug the end close to the sideplate, then fill it with epoxy or epoxy putty and let dry over night.  Just don't epoxy the casing to the sideplate, making a bad situation even worse.
Here we have a saying "a farmer always makes a plan"   you must be in the farming business. ???

I like the epoxy idea, but very scary.

My mind is occupied elsewhere at the moment, too many irons in the fire.


Nope, not into farming.