Stubborn Bridge/Pinion Bearing removal Penn International 80stw

Started by MikeSea808, October 20, 2020, 12:27:04 AM

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MikeSea808

  aloha, writing to see if anyone has any special tools or tricks to get stubborn pinion/bridge bearings out of a Penn International 80stw, ive done this removal hundreds of times on other reels, but the bearings on this particular one were heavily salted in.
i was able to get them out after a few days of soaking and repeated attempts to tap the bearings out from the back side, which is made alot harder due to the spacer sleeve between the bearings, so not much room at all to get "behind" the bearing. after tapping on it with various different tools Tried a screw driver after couldnt get a catch on the lip of the bearing with any other tool which resulted in damage to spacer (see pic) then after got it to move about a 1/8" used different sized extended sockets to finally get them removed (after 3 plus days trying) i also had the entire bridge soaking in wd-40 then corrosion block for a few days, and when i got the bearings out you could see that no oil was able to penetrate past the bearing itself, as there was alot of white salt buildup and corrosion inside the bridge, that you could see oil never got too. and as a result of all the hard pounding i had to do to even get the bearings to budge, the result was the spacer part #134b-80st ended up getting alot of tool marks on, and i didnt think it was re-usable with out some binding on the shaft. and just went to order another one only to find they are now discontinued. along with the other spacer above it part # 134a-80st. just found a few on ebay so buying all i can find, but just wanted to see if any has made a custom tool to get these bearings out when really stuck in place. seems like a flat but strong tool angles at 90 degrees to get behind the bearing with a straight handle part that can be tapped on with a hammer would work, but i know its going to be hard to find a thin, but strong enough metal material. any ideas anyone ? mahalo


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Brewcrafter

It's Monday Morning quarterbacking, but I wonder if a good vinegar soak first (to break up the salt) would have been a good first step (not sure how the anodizing would resist that long term) and allow the oil to penetrate.  And given unlimited time, you could always soak the part in fresh water (RO would be even better) and as long as you constantly change out the water the salt buildup will go back into solution, and theoretically it would reverse the salt buildup but not the damage to the metal or anodizing.  But I'm guessing it would take a long time (after all that salt buildup didn't happen overnight).  - john

MikeSea808

Aloha BrewCrafter, i have not tried vinegar before, but was spraying soaking the entire bridge, even after getting bearing to move a little, i soaked it in space made, but it just didnt penetrate any where else. was really corroded to the bridge itself. but will try vinegar on the removed parts and see how well it eats at the salt and corrosion. - thanks for tip.

alantani

30 seconds with a bernzomatic propane torch would be my next step........  :-\
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

MikeSea808

aloha alan,  i actually did hit it with the map gas a few times, we even heard a few "pops" but in the end nothing budged.  i also have a international 130a here with a screw snapped off in the outer side plate, there is no threads in that part, but we have heated that thing up till its almost glowing, soaked it in oil and corrosion block, did hot water soaks for over a week at a time, and nothing will get this screw to budge, we even had it in a vise and were hitting it pretty hard with a hammer and an awl, but for reason it simply will not budge, will have to post pics of that one on a different thread.
Thanks everyone for your tips, and help.

alantani

for the screw, cut a slot with the cutting wheel of a dremel, then torch it the same, then hit it with "freeze off" and see it it will unscrew.  do this outside in a light breeze.  you're gonna make alot of smoke.  the torch and freeze off might work for the collar. 
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

MikeSea808

aloha alan, never heard of freeze off, so will look it up,and see if i can buy some, i have about 20+ international gold 50's and 80's that have several outer frame screws that are salted in and need extraction. so will give this a try on those and the (2) 130;s i have here on the bench with snapped screws. Many thanks for all the tips and help. Aloha  -mike

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

MikeSea808

my local autozone has the freeze and the pb penetrating catalyst, so just bought 2 cans of each, and will experiment with some reels this week, along with some torch treatment to see what works best, on these heavily salted in screws. will post my results next week. thanks again. aloha - mike

alantani

torching the screw head for a 20 to 30 count has always worked best for me.  it hardly ever fails!!!!!!
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

MikeSea808

aloha alan, yes we used the torch several times on the screw in the 130, had it glowing several times and even heard a few "pops" but it still wont budge, got it soaking in the freeze off and pb catalyst, will try again tomorrow. thanks for advise, as always. aloha - mike

Tightlines667

#11
I have used the spool shaft and wooden or rubber mallet.  Be careful not to mushroom or damage the shaft thpugh.  I actually use an old cracked one.  Or, you could try putting the drive shaft with 2-speed pins and pawl in place so they grab the bushing then a wooden mallet on the shaft to pop the bearing.
Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.