Rinsing my new Avet or dunking it? I'm a little confused.

[Breadfan]

Ok, seriously. I have ceramic balls and metal races, I use REM oil on them. REM oil is for guns, is very thin and I thought what the heck. It normally makes my bearings in my old Dawia's so fast, takes on a whole new learning curve. So I guess I should probably just stop being cheap since I spent all of this money on this reel and bearings and get the proper oil.

I don't know anything about REM oil, but what makes you think it is undesirable?  Also, why apply oil the outside but not the inside?  Hybrid bearings are better than all stainless, but full ceramic are better than hybrid.  Full ceramic are better when run dry, but they are noisy.  

The REM oil works fine to me. Someone said in a previous comment that today's reel oils are specialty oil designed for them and hold up to water better.

[Mic]

 Focus

  Focus


Focus

[jurelometer]

I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.

Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?

Yes. As noted early in this thread.  Don't soak "sealed" reels.

Sealed reels do not do that good a job of sealing.  The quality of manufacturing and engineering is not that high, even on the high dollar reels.  Getting a long lasting, low friction, easy-to-maintain  waterproof seal on rotating shaft assemblies is no small effort.  Reel makers go with "good enough."  If the seals are currently holding, no saltwater got in, so no need to soak/dunk.    But if the seals are mostly working, you are introducing more water into the almost sealed reel that will remained trapped inside and not evacuating any salt, but increasing the amount of moisture for an extended period of time.  The sad joke is that all sealed reels eventually do a better job of keeping water in than keeping water out.  It is just a matter of time and mileage.

The purpose of soaking is to expose the salt  to a large amount of freshwater.  The salt dissolves and disperses throughout the water, decreasing the amount of salt in the reel.  But if there are just a few cracks or small holes to for the water to enter the reel, the dispersion of salt will mostly be local, and the little salt will leave the reel.   Here as an experiment  that illustrates:

Drop a tablespoon of salt in a gallon bucket  of warm water, give it one shake, wait a minute, and the water will taste salty.  Put  a tablespoon of salt int a glass salt shaker and fill the salt shaker with water.  Now drop the salt shaker into the bucket  refilled with warm fresh water.  The water will taste fresh for a long time (many hours?).   Now  take the salt  shaker out of the bucket, drain the water out of the salt shaker into the bucket, and drop back in. Repeat a few times and the water will  taste salty,  proving that most of the salt is no longer in the shaker.

There are limits to how much soaking will help. It will take  much longer  to get a tablespoon of salt out of the shaker than a 1/4 teaspoon.  And reels  are not a hollow smooth shell on the inside, so salt stuck  in crevices does not get much surface exposure to salt and therefore is much more difficult to disolve.  

Soaking works best on reels that drain well.   Just like in the bucket/salt shaker experiment, pulling the reel out of the water, draining as much as possible, and dropping back in a few times should help significantly.   A single quick dunk and drain is less effective.  Replacing the soaking water in the bucket is not necessary (I did the equations in another thread).

My preference for beer usage  would usually be to consume out of a surfactant free glass vs. lubricating bearings, but I have to admit that Shiner Bock is sort of a toss-up  

-J

[Mic]

I have seen some new reels with lot of holes for the water to run off and some with seals to keep the water out.

Does it matter which type of reel you have to either dunk/rinse?

Yes. As noted early in this thread.  Don't soak "sealed" reels.

Sealed reels do not do that good a job of sealing.  The quality of manufacturing and engineering is not that high, even on the high dollar reels.  Getting a long lasting, low friction, easy-to-maintain  waterproof seal on rotating shaft assemblies is no small effort.  Reel makers go with "good enough."  If the seals are currently holding, no saltwater got in, so no need to soak/dunk.    But if the seals are mostly working, you are introducing more water into the almost sealed reel that will remained trapped inside and not evacuating any salt, but increasing the amount of moisture for an extended period of time.  The sad joke is that all sealed reels eventually do a better job of keeping water in than keeping water out.  It is just a matter of time and mileage.

The purpose of soaking is to expose the salt  to a large amount of freshwater.  The salt dissolves and disperses throughout the water, decreasing the amount of salt in the reel.  But if there are just a few cracks or small holes to for the water to enter the reel, the dispersion of salt will mostly be local, and the little salt will leave the reel.   Here as an experiment  that illustrates:

Drop a tablespoon of salt in a gallon bucket  of warm water, give it one shake, wait a minute, and the water will taste salty.  Put  a tablespoon of salt int a glass salt shaker and fill the salt shaker with water.  Now drop the salt shaker into the bucket  refilled with warm fresh water.  The water will taste fresh for a long time (many hours?).   Now  take the salt  shaker out of the bucket, drain the water out of the salt shaker into the bucket, and drop back in. Repeat a few times and the water will  taste salty,  proving that most of the salt is no longer in the shaker.

There are limits to how much soaking will help. It will take  much longer  to get a tablespoon of salt out of the shaker than a 1/4 teaspoon.  And reels  are not a hollow smooth shell on the inside, so salt stuck  in crevices does not get much surface exposure to salt and therefore is much more difficult to disolve.  

Soaking works best on reels that drain well.   Just like in the bucket/salt shaker experiment, pulling the reel out of the water, draining as much as possible, and dropping back in a few times should help significantly.   A single quick dunk and drain is less effective.  Replacing the soaking water in the bucket is not necessary (I did the equations in another thread).

My preference for beer usage  would usually be to consume out  a surfactant free glass vs. lubricating bearings, but I have to admit that Shiner Bock is sort of a toss-up 

-J

[oc1]

drainage

[Mic]

drainage

Where in the hell did you find that !

That's drainage alright.

I guess you could use the old standby wad of spit for lube ? 

Mic

[Makule]

Everol recommends a rinse with the drag fully engaged.  Then sprayed with CRC.  Loosen the drag to store.