alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Daiwa Megaforce 100TSH - standard service
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: Daiwa Megaforce 100TSH - standard service  (Read 69575 times)
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redsetta
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« on: August 07, 2011, 12:14:07 PM »

Here's a nice little Daiwa baitcaster, with a 'twitcher' thumb function which gives a partial wind with each press, thus twitching the lure in a presumably irresistible way for the target fish...
The owner brought it to me because the twitcher action was sticky, as shown in photo two.



First up, pop off the handle nut plate with a thin screw driver.
Then undo the handle nut with a 10mm ring spanner.



Off comes the friction washer, then the star drag.



Take off the bearing washer, drag spring washers and spacing sleeve - they're in the following order.
Undo the right side plate screw.



Once that's undone, the left side plate needs a quarter turn anti-clockwise to disengage.
You can now separate the side plate assemblies and spool.



Remove the right side plate screws and pop off the plate.



Remove the cast control cap and the pinion shaft.
Now you can slide off the main gear.



Slide off the clutch wheel and drive shaft washer.
The pinion, yoke and yoke springs simply slide off, leaving you with the following layout (which includes the drag and key washer).



Undo the two screws fastening in the drive shaft and retainer.



Remove the shaft and the clutch trip lever will pop up with the pressure from the attached spring.
Remove both.



The front plate is held in place with a plastic clip - unhook gently with a small screw driver.
Undo the screw holding the twitch bar assembly and remove, along with the spring.



Now it's the worm drive assembly - remove the screw and slide off the gear.
Flip the body over and remove the twitch bar bushing.



Remove the c-clip from the twitch bar gear assembly and slip the gear off.



Back on the right side, the worm gear bushing can come off and the twitch bar can slide out of the frame.



Remove the c-clip from the left side of the worm assembly, along with the pawl from the line guide.



The worm gear will slide out from the right side. Don't forget the washer from the left side.



You can now remove the clutch cams, ie (B) first, then (A).



Pull out the ball bearing beneath and remove the clutch lever.



Once everything has been checker for wear, cleaned thoroughly and given a coat of grease, it's time to reassemble.'
Being a spool bearing, this one's been cleaned with CRC and carb cleaner, then given a drop of ReelX.
Then on go the clutch cams.



Replace the clutch cam spring as shown here.



Back go the drive shaft and retainer, which also serve to fasten down the clutch trip lever.
Reinsert the level wind guard, but be sure to slide it through the line guide or you'll be cursing later.



On top of that goes the bushing, followed by the level wind (worm) gear.



Finish off with the left side washer and c-clip.
Insert the pawl into the line guide, lube with a little Inox or similar. Don't use grease as it'll slow the whole action when casting.



Fasten down the pawl cap and that's all done.
Now insert the twitch bar.



Replace the bushing and washer on the left side.



And finish off with the plate and spring.



Refit the right side bushing and slip the twitch gear back on.



Finish it off with the washer and c-clip.



Replace the idle gear between the twitch and level wind gears.
Refit the front plate, hooking the plate over the left side tab.



Slide the greased yoke and pinion assembly back on and don't forget the two tiny washers which sit below the yoke springs.



Back on with the clutch wheel and drive shaft washer, both greased with Cal's.



On goes the main gear and greased drag washer, finished with the key washer.



Slide the gear shaft collar on, but apply a little Cal's to the inside of the collar first.
And on goes the side plate.



Once again, this bearing was cleaned thoroughly and lubed with a drop of ReelX.
Then the pinion shaft is slipped into place (with another drop of ReelX).



Replace the cast control cap and the four shaft washers in the following order.



Back on with the star drag, then the spool can be reinserted.



After cleaning and re-lubing the left side spool bearing (and applying a thin coat of grease to the inside of the plate), replace the left side plate and give a small clockwise turn to lock in place.
Tighten the right side plate screw to finish.
Then replace the star drag and friction washer.



Replace the handle and fasten down.



Job done...



Perhaps a little long-winded, but every step in the process is there...
Hope it's of some value.
All the best, Justin
« Last Edit: August 05, 2017, 05:56:56 AM by redsetta » Logged

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Alto Mare
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« Reply #1 on: August 07, 2011, 05:00:46 PM »

Very nice Justin, always enjoyable! Thank you!
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redsetta
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« Reply #2 on: August 07, 2011, 08:53:29 PM »

Cheers Sal.
PS I also did a Duel 6/0 two-speed yesterday which I'll endeavour to upload tonight.
They're quite something...
« Last Edit: August 07, 2011, 10:07:15 PM by redsetta » Logged

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redsetta
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« Reply #3 on: August 11, 2011, 12:26:06 AM »

One quick comment on the 'twitch' assembly - if you have one of these, don't use the twitch bar to move the bait or lure.
It's designed solely to retrieve live on the downward stroke after having 'twitched' the rod upwards...
The gear is plastic and won't stand up to the pressure.
Righto, Justin
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« Reply #4 on: May 09, 2013, 09:55:05 PM »

Hi Justin,

Great post, very detailed and just what I was looking for.  It gave me the confidence to take mine apart and try and get my twitchin' bar working again. It's the same model, just the left-handed version.

I've only used this reel twice a few years ago when Kayak fishing so to be honest can't remember much about how it functioned when it was working!

I've come across a snag and would be grateful if you could give me a few pointers please?

At the moment I've stripped it right back, to about this stage http://i1080.photobucket.com/albums/j335/redsetta/Daiwa%20Megaforce/Daiwa9.jpg in your post.

Where I'm confused is when I press the twitchin' bar, the drive shaft turns about a quarter of a turn; but when I let go again, the drive shaft returns to where it was. Equally, I can now only turn the drive shaft a quarter turn forward and back which moves the twitchin' bar up and down!

On the plus side, all the parts look to be in good order with nothing broken or worn.

Any helpful tips or suggestions would be greatly appreciated!  Grin

Many thanks,

Paul
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #5 on: May 09, 2013, 10:19:39 PM »

Very nice Justin.  Thanks.  I've always wanted to get one of those reels.
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redsetta
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« Reply #6 on: May 10, 2013, 01:10:11 AM »

G'day and welcome Paul,
If I understand correctly, the twitch gear may be binding.
It's been a while, but I believe there's a little A/R bearing inside the twitch gear assembly.
If that's seized, the whole mechanism will be locking (don't force it, or the nylon gears will strip).
Pull the brass twitch gear and check the bearing within.
Let us know how you get on.
Good luck, Justin
PS The drive shaft should move about a quarter-turn when the twitch bar is actuated, but as you've removed the right side plate, there's no A/R bearing to stop it returning.
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paulo1885
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« Reply #7 on: May 10, 2013, 06:15:26 AM »

Justin, you're a genius!

As the rest of the reel looked to be in perfect condition I'd not removed that gear assembly....mainly as the C clip was a bit fiddly!

I've just done it now and found the problem - rusty sludge inside the bearing. Somehow a bit of water has got in there.

After cleaning it up and oiling, it's working again but I think it will have to be replaced so will get onto Daiwa.

Thanks for your help with this, much appreciated.

Tight lines!

Paul
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PIET
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« Reply #8 on: September 10, 2013, 01:49:45 PM »

Hey hey i need some help please my daiwa's twitchin bar is giving me some trouble but a friend told me that it is important that it stays part of of the reel because the gear is needed to make the reel function. Is there a way that i can disconnect the twitchin bar, i want to leave it there because of the gear but don't want to use it i love my reel but now it is useless to me because the twitchin bar prevents the reel from working properly. Can you help me i love my reel and want to use it again.
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saltydog
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« Reply #9 on: September 10, 2013, 04:47:00 PM »

Very nice tutorial Justin , it is much appreciated, just got one of these for service. This made it much easier to do.
Thanks
William
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redsetta
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« Reply #10 on: September 10, 2013, 09:38:22 PM »

Thanks William - glad to be of service.

PIET - I've not done this meself, so let us know how you get on.
Try removing this plastic gear:



That should leave the twitch bar supported by the little A/R bearing within the brass twitch gear.
It may drop down and interfere with 'thumbing' the spool, but let's cross that bridge if/when we come to it.
Good luck, Justin
« Last Edit: August 05, 2017, 05:57:44 AM by redsetta » Logged

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