ID this rod OLD vintage solid glass rod

[philaroman]

That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7  .     A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
   320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet .      I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...

AWESOME!!!   THANK YOU!!!
just what I wanted to hear from just the right direct, extended experience
mine is 9' & Mod/Slow -- pretty thick tip & comparatively thin at butt
I just want to thin it a bit, by hand, starting well above ferrule
is there any reason not to go finer -- well above 400-grit -- before final coat/paint?

thanks

[oldmanjoe]

That green rod was sanded heavy , the tip was 14 and is now a 7  .     A little over a hundred thousands came off in minutes with 120 sand paper in a drill .
    320 grit was next , that will take care of the open glass , finish with 400 wet .      I painted it green because it is my goose Island rod ...

AWESOME!!!   THANK YOU!!!
just what I wanted to hear from just the right direct, extended experience
mine is 9' & Mod/Slow -- pretty thick tip & comparatively thin at butt
I just want to thin it a bit, by hand, starting well above ferrule
is there any reason not to go finer -- well above 400-grit -- before final coat/paint?

thanks

I feel that the paint has to bite to something ..

[oc1]

I wouldn't use wet and dry.  The wet paste might be ground into the fiber. Better to let the paint or finish to go into the fiber.   If I did use wet/dry I would want to do something after to get rid of the moisture.

Painting a rod can cover a lot of ills and the manufacturers take advantage of it.  It is never a surprise to scrape off the finish and find some small irregularity below.

[steelfish]

I worked about 3/4 of the stick , but most of the last half .    While it is spinning i can bend and sand at the same time .

Joe, I never asked you.

since is fiberglass, how do you managed to avoid fiberglass dust all over everything?

fiberglass dust is not a joke, do you used gloves and any special mask?
Im far from actually trying to sand mine cuz Im tu busy with repairs but it would nice to know in advance to be prepared

thanks compadre

[oldmanjoe]

 I work outside in the driveway  with the shop vacuum running to pick up the dust as it comes off the stick  .
Leather glove is a plus , when you are cutting with 120 grit , a lot of hooks with open pores / strands of glass . It gets better after the 320 cut
   Dust mask if needed .

[dlrider]

I'd wet sand, maybe with small amount of running water.

[oldmanjoe]

I'd wet sand, maybe with small amount of running water.

I do that for the finial sanding ...

[steelfish]

I work outside in the driveway  with the shop vacuum running to pick up the dust as it comes off the stick  .
Leather glove is a plus , when you are cutting with 120 grit , a lot of hooks with open pores / strands of glass . It gets better after the 320 cut
   Dust mask if needed .

I have never ever sanded down a solid glass rod, so, just to confirm, If I reduce the diameter few millimeters from the last half to the tip wouldnt that weaken the strength of the rod like making it prone to break on a small fish?   
or it will still have the same un-breakable capabilities of the lighter solid glass rods on which you can almost bend them to a "U" form with no worries?

asking cuz the blank seems like a potential material for a "Whoper Stopper" mini rod, they are 4ft and 4.5ft long, that or just getting a new rainshadow solid glass blank, they are cheap as chips

[oldmanjoe]

  Best that i can tell you is that you should try it on old stick . keep bending it as you go along and you will feel it soften up .
   Turn a broom stick into a pole vaulter stick .

[jurelometer]

A few thoughts:

1.  I believe that solid glass blanks have no cloth and the glass fibers are more or less distributed evenly, oriented mostly in the long direction of the blank.  

2.  Sanding down a solid blank to acheive a consistent taper with uniform roundness will be difficult, especially if you are taking off enough material to change the action.

3. When it comes to strength from the dimensions, the outside diameter of the blank  section is the most important factor.  Wall thickness comes second.  But the the thicker the wall, the less additional thickness helps.   IOW, going from a really thin walled blank to what we would typically  consider a medium wall thickness will have a huge impact on blank durability, but going from medium wall thickness down to solid does not add much more.  There are hoop strength formulas for all of this, but you have to choose the right one for the materials.  

4.  The point of a solid glass blank is simply cost.  Since no cloth is used, there are no fibers encircling blank, making hoop strength weaker.  The blank construction is fundamentally weaker and much less stiff for its weight.  This is compensated  mostly by making the blank diameter wider (outside diameter is king see #2), and helped a little bit more by making the wall thickness 100%.  Solid construction is used because it is a cheaper, not better manufacturing method.   Inferior material, but lots more of it. And because of the materials  and manufacturing methods, progressive actions are difficult to achieve.

5.  Sanding down a solid glass blank to change the action is making the outer diameter thinner, and the blank weaker.     Combined with the difficulty of evenly reducing the dimensions by hand, the most likely outcome of significantly reforming the blank action with some sandpaper is a fundamentally weaker blank than if you bought a nice chunky tubular e-glass blank- which are often quite inexpensive as well.

Probably no harm in sanding a bit off to facilitate repainting.   And playing a bit with the taper might be a fun exercise that might end up strong enough (if you don't mind the itching- and keep that dust away from your lungs).  But it is not a way to get the best of both worlds of a durable cheap solid glass rod and a progressive taper with a thin tip.

My $0.02...

-J

[steelfish]

A few thoughts:

..............   Combined with the difficulty of evenly reducing the dimensions by hand, the most likely outcome of significantly reforming the blank action with some sandpaper is a fundamentally weaker blank than if you bought a nice chunky tubular e-glass blank- which are often quite inexpensive as well.
-J

that is mostly what really dont make it appeal to do it, the way the rod is rigth now make it good for cut bait fishing for a beginner or even loaner rod.

[Cuttyhunker]

Steel,
I agree it's a fisher or loaner, a pigs ear not a silk purse. I missed the ferrule, uncommon in the K Mart specials back in the day and an upgrade from the norm, seems the designs breaking at the handle like yours are generally older, abandoned to one piece designs probably in pursuit of a price point as time wet on.  There were a plethora of builders to the "hardware trade", I have a pair of old  8 foot True Temper boat rods ferruled like that with the Montague name on the label, early on, I expect, after Monty/OC was bought out. 

[steelfish]

Got another two Old fishing rods  Made in USA

Shakespeare Wonderod 8ft saltwater and Gamefisher from Sears Roebuck.

the Gamefishers feels heavy and seems to be a cheapo solidglass 6.6rod but the Shakespeare Wonderod have some interesting lettering "the straight fiber petented rod trademarked by the Spiral markings".

any one have an opinion or experience with this wonderod by Shakespeare?

pics 1, 2 & 3 Gamefisher by Sears, the rest are Wonderod by Shakespeare

[philaroman]

wonderod is GOLD!!!  ...very generally -- a Wonder is a more moderate Ugly
I think both are "Howald process" -- older Wonder is all glass / later Ugly has some graphite
(I guess, WR blank weight is tiny bit higher than Ugly, as well)

[steelfish]

wonderod is GOLD!!!  ...very generally -- a Wonder is a more moderate Ugly
I think both are "Howald process" -- older Wonder is all glass / later Ugly has some graphite
(I guess, WR blank weight is tiny bit higher than Ugly, as well)

this Wonderod seems like a better candidate for installing better guides and leave it as loaner rod, the 1st one on the OP was way too heavy