Spiral wrap saltwater rods.

[gstours]

Thanks for everyone who has added information,  and now my other observation.
   When cranking in line with a conventional reel and rod some line mending is automatically done when like on he rail the reel is rolled a little, the line with follow the low spot in-the guides and put the line on the other side of the spool if it's not too far out of level.   Especially easy todo with no heavy load.
  This feature is now gone with the spiral wrap rod.    Like you all have said.   Not a big deal.
      Just observations.💁‍♂️

[steelfish]

For what it's worth, the conventional wisdom is to clock the second guide to the right, not the first.

It's accepted wisdom by several rod builders, do you have a particular objection to it?

I might be wrong (not the 1st time) but I have noticed that in USA and few other countries the normal way for an spiral wrap is to use the 1st guide (striper) at 0* or bit clocked to the right (3*-5*) in order to have the line centered, but in NZ and Australia (maybe more) they leave the 1st guide at 0* and then clocked the 2nd guide to the RIGTH those 5* and then start the spiral wrap to the LEFT, I understand the idea but that makes the transition larger because it involves more guides to have the line to the bottom of the blank, on long jigging rods or casting rods this might not a problem but on short jigging or trolling rods that might leave you with just 2 or 3 guides at the bottom of the rod.

[MarkT]

Mine have the first guide basically centered and then spiral to the left.  I don't know why you'd want to angle the 2nd guide to the right if you're spiraling to the left.  I like the fact that the line tends to build up on the left of the spool so that I just have to press it the right with my thumb and let it come back on it's own.

[boon]

I don't know why you'd want to angle the 2nd guide to the right if you're spiraling to the left.  I like the fact that the line tends to build up on the left of the spool so that I just have to press it the right with my thumb and let it come back on it's own.

For mechanical jigging, if the rod design makes line build up on one side it's no good, because there is no opportunity to guide the line on. You palm the reel with your left hand and you're winding with the right. The reason the second guide is clocked against the spiral is so that line comes through the horizontal centre of the stripper guide (the left side of the second guide should align with the middle of the stripper), making it want to stack in the middle of the spool. Then you use really narrow tall reels which self-manage the line lay.

Yes, you need an extra guide in the transition, but you still end up with 3-4 guides and the tip on the underside of the rod, even on a very short (5') jig rod, and that seems to work well enough.

I guess it begs the question... if you like a spiral rod to lay the line on the left so you can just guide it right, do you build your "conventional" wrap rods so the stripper guide pulls line to the side as well?

[steelfish]

For mechanical jigging, if the rod design makes line build up on one side it's no good, because there is no opportunity to guide the line on. .......

hmm nice to know it mostly (or only??) apply to mechanical jigging rods, I was intrigued by the different way to do the transition from the Aussie style Vs USA style, so with that said, I have this long 7.6ft swimbait rod that I was thinking to USE that "other" style of spiral wrapping of adding that offset 2nd guide to the right keeping the striper guide centered and then make the transition to the left (as always in my case) and try it before putting the epoxy on the guides.
the swimbait blank have a long flex and it will be used with a 300 sized low profile baitcasting reel so, it might work better if has something to make it avoid the pressure of the line on the left side of the reel and let the levelwind to work more freely.



@ Gary, I think there are some guides with a taller frame than those low raider, check the Fuji RV, but they are expensive since the only material available for those is Titanium

[Jeri]

@ Gary, I think there are some guides with a taller frame than those low raider, check the Fuji RV, but they are expensive since the only material available for those is Titanium

Size for size, when comparing overall height - yes, the RV guides are higher, but the lowest edge of the insert is actually lower, so no nett gain on the raising of the line height above the blank. And at 4x the price of a comparable LC guide, I think I will stick with the slightly cheaper option and would take the line height gain as well - win, win.

Conducted a small trial with a colleague, had him cast a rod with plain stainless guides, and the same rod/blank built with titanium guides - he couldn't tell the difference between each on performance. Sure there is possibly an argument for titanium framed guides on very light spinning or casting rods, but that gain is soon lost as the weight of the overall rod goes above a certain point. The friend was a great advocate for titanium guides. It becomes a matter of discernible performance change/improvement.

[steelfish]

@ Gary, I think there are some guides with a taller frame than those low raider, check the Fuji RV, but they are expensive since the only material available for those is Titanium

Size for size, when comparing overall height - yes, the RV guides are higher, but the lowest edge of the insert is actually lower, so no nett gain on the raising of the line height above the blank. And at 4x the price of a comparable LC guide, I think I will stick with the slightly cheaper option and would take the line height gain as well - win, win.

Its always nice to have an expert on Fuji guides and surf fishing, thanks for that info about those two high frame guides Jeri.

[gstours]

Thanks again for the help and good reed. .  Maybe there are several solutions and now I almost forgot what my problem was.   Possibly is....
   The need for a small 6-10 size tall stripper the same height as a 16-20 low rider might keep the line centered and provide sufficient clearance for the front 🤚 hand.
   Certainly the stripper guide could be smaller diameter butt I have yet to find the animal 🦒.
I am learning and soon want to start my first Zeus's #4 blank.   Thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas.     I,m here to learn.🚶‍♂️

[steelfish]

I am learning and soon want to start my first Zeus's #4 blank.   Thanks for sharing your thoughts and ideas.     I,m here to learn.🚶‍♂️

yaik !! are you getting a zeus Blank?  nice!!
I have my eyes on a Zeus 3, but that might wait till summer

[gstours]

Yes Alex,   After a 6 month ponder 🤔,   A Zeus 4 is in my possession.   66 inches, light and yet powerful.
    The finish is beautiful.   Just saying. 🙋‍♂️.
          It's to run the big iron and octopus 🐙 s.

[gstours]

A remarkable resemblance of the Boss.

[Dominick]

That must be a professional model.  He's too handsome to be the boss.     Dominick

[gstours]

After listening to you and pondering 🤔 if stumbled on a possible
Viola.    Adding the inner size 10 guide to aid in keeping the incoming line centered in the first guide.
   This might just work.

[MarkT]

Wow, ya know, maybe you should just stick to conventional wrapped rods!

[steelfish]

Im not an expert but seems that the angle of the line from the added small guide is too sharp, the size 10 guide is to close to the striper guide, I think in this case you better off taking the striper guide out and reinstalling it with an offset to the right.