Spiral wrap saltwater rods.

gstours · April 23, 2021, 08:23:43 PM

Ok,ok, this is only a test. About 22 degrees helped the correction guide with a slight tension center the line in the stripper. After thread wraps a reel was put back on.✅
After peeling off 75 yards of line in the yard, and with a level spool, theline was cranked back on with a bend in the rod, here's the unmended spool of line. Perfectly centered.
Mission accomplished.🎣

gstours · April 23, 2021, 08:29:38 PM

The correction guide may seem unconventional, butt there's a lot of things about the spiral wrap rod that is a topic for comments. Thanks again for everyone who helped me get this far.🙋‍♂️🚣‍♀️🎣

boon · April 23, 2021, 09:33:04 PM

It's almost like people have done this before and reached basically the same conclusion

Good on you for doing the experiment. You could have just ended up with a rod that stacked all the line on one side and pretended it was a feature

Now scale the guides and spacing to remove the sharp angles and I think you'll be on to a winner.

jurelometer · April 24, 2021, 12:51:48 AM

I think that I have found an answer to my question from earlier in this thread. There is not supposed to be much load on the transition guides. Any load will end up being torsional. With significant load, if you don't rip the guide of the wraps, you will end up twisting the blank. Twisting is not good for blank integrity, and the main point of spiral wrapping is to get rid of twisting load. Plus it is really hard to design a transition that will take much load anyways.

So how is this important? The guides that are not centered (top or bottom), will not be distributing load on that section of the blank. When building traditional guides-on-top, we obsess about guide positioning, but with spiral wrapping we happily leave a chunk of the blank almost free of any load from the guides. These are conflicting theories.

My guess is that the transition typically occurs in the mid section, and as long as there are enough guides in the right place to load the tip and butt decently, we don't notice what might be a more modest loss in potential deep loading performance (similar to switching a blank from conventional to spinning). Plus there are some potential benefits with spiral that must also be added to the equation.

If I was building another spiral wrapped - drop jigging rod, I would compare how it fully loads and dead lifts against a traditional layout, and would probably try to make the transition on as short a distance as possible, and make sure that the stripper guide was taking some load in a short pump scenario.

-J.

gstours · April 26, 2021, 03:04:26 PM

Another test picture. Same sample layout, about 75 yards was reeled in starting with a level 🧵 spool.
This reel is narrow and it's possibly a better test for line stacking if it's going to be a problem.
Again using a bend in the rod and with no mending of the incoming line, almost perfectly centered on the spool.
Part of the equation is solved. This might also help guide people to stay away from the road less traveled.✅

steelfish · May 05, 2021, 05:44:33 PM

I dont know Gary, but is the last pics you make it look like a "complicated science" but it shouldnt, the closest the rod flexes to the grip the faster you have to send the line to the bottom, heck, some guys even use 2 transition guides instead of 3 or 4 to send the line to the guides at the bottom of the blank, but I need to say that its always nice to experiment and get our own findings and use what it will work for you, just because I do that all the time.

gstours · May 08, 2021, 12:11:10 AM

Thanks Alex, you have got more experience on these spiral wrap rods than I do, and I respect everyone,s opinion. The rod shone has my idea of a correction guide if you want the first guide centered.
As a taker of information, it seems like as soon as the transition is made the better the advantage is from the design. This is short for short rods.........
Others say 2 guides will bring terrible twist to the blank?
The funniest thing. Is when you f. Up, And now body knows. Lots of trial, Can't wait. 🥊

MarkT · May 08, 2021, 01:00:52 AM

Back in the day they got to the bottom ASAP. First guide slightly tilted to the left, 2nd a small guide at 90 (bump guide), 3rd slightly tilted to left, all others at 180. I saw some without a 2nd guide at all, just a rub strip. Mine use a slower 3-4 guide transition.

Gary, is this a rod for your charters where you have googans who can't keep the line level? The focus on having the line centered on the reel seems aimed at those who can't fish!

gstours · May 08, 2021, 03:10:06 PM

Thanks again for everyone chiming in to add information .....
I,m short on time, so for this season I,m going to test the work I've experimented on.
The first picture is a test of reeling in unmended line with a bend inthe rod keeping Rhee reel as level as possible while walking forward.
The line is loading mostly on the transition side.
The second pik is with the small correction guide installed. It's a no brainer. Perfectly centered, about 75 yards.
I,m still looking for a size 8-10 tall k- type guide for the eventual project of the Zeus's #4 blank.
I,m hoping to live that long?💁‍♂️

gstours · May 08, 2021, 03:14:17 PM

Oops 🙊. The spiral side picture did not load. Butt you get the picture? I'll try again.

boon · May 11, 2021, 05:43:41 AM

Quote from: MarkT on May 08, 2021, 01:00:52 AM
Gary, is this a rod for your charters where you have googans who can't keep the line level? The focus on having the line centered on the reel seems aimed at those who can't fish!

I mean.... broadly speaking, I would consider any rod that doesn't centre the line to be faultily designed. Just because you can mend the line doesn't mean you should have to do it all the time to compensate for an incorrectly designed or built rod.

steelfish · May 13, 2021, 12:57:47 AM

Quote from: boon on May 11, 2021, 05:43:41 AM
Quote from: MarkT on May 08, 2021, 01:00:52 AM
Gary, is this a rod for your charters where you have googans who can't keep the line level? The focus on having the line centered on the reel seems aimed at those who can't fish!

I mean.... broadly speaking, I would consider any rod that doesn't centre the line to be faultily designed. Just because you can mend the line doesn't mean you should have to do it all the time to compensate for an incorrectly designed or built rod.

what would be the difference on skipping the striper guide and use only the bumper guide (2nd guide) to center the line ? (seeing this next pic)
considering your bumper guide is as tall as the striper guide, in other words, installing the striper guide 5* offset to the right as the bumper guide is located in that rod, at the end, is that guide (bumper) what actually keeps the line centered.

boon · May 13, 2021, 04:39:05 AM

I'm not 100%. I think if you offset the stripper guide, there is uneven pressure on the line when it goes to the left (assuming you clocked it to the right) versus when it goes to the right. I suspect it would bias line to the right hand side of the spool.

thorhammer · May 13, 2021, 07:54:21 PM

No one has called out the JVariance frame and ole skool Sabre! Classics....

RowdyW · May 13, 2021, 09:41:37 PM

Hey John, there is nothing wrong with a Jvariance frame or side plates. They are a copy of Accurate frames & plates. I've got a full half dozen of them in gold, red, & silver. We just don't see them to often any more. They haven't been available for almost 10 years. I remember when I bought mine they were about $125-$135 for a set of plates & frame. Those were the days.