alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Glow jig charging station ideas
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May 11, 2021, 11:07:57 AM *
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Author Topic: Glow jig charging station ideas  (Read 794 times)
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David Hall
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« Reply #30 on: May 03, 2021, 04:24:48 AM »

I been using a little camera flash accessory and it lights them up better than my UV lights did.  Itís a blinding flash and boy does it fire up the lures. 
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Maxed Out
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« Reply #31 on: May 03, 2021, 04:37:44 AM »

I been using a little camera flash accessory and it lights them up better than my UV lights did.  Itís a blinding flash and boy does it fire up the lures.  

 .....exactly right David. A portable camera flash gets the job done fast too, and fits in a coat pocket

 Halibut fishing off Washington north coast in 400-750'. Glow lures just don't work. Black actually works really good. Then just around the bend and into the strait of Juan de fuca, glow or white works and black not so much. Glow on a salmon lure doesn't do diddly IMHO
« Last Edit: May 03, 2021, 04:43:26 AM by Maxed Out » Logged

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pjstevko
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« Reply #32 on: May 09, 2021, 03:30:49 AM »

The strip lights arrived this week and I did a quick test....

I loosely coiled the 6' strip of lights and placed it in the foil lined container and put a sk jig inside then turned it on to charge the jig for 5 minutes....... The 5 minute charge made the jig glow for over 15 minutes!

It wasn't as bright as when I used the uv sterilization box but was decent for just throwing the light strip in without any real placement.

I think if I buy a longer (9' or 12') strip and carefully wrap it to completely cover the inside of the container it might work better. The distance between the walls and the jig is wider than I'd like but if I use anything smaller in diameter I won't be able to stick the lights to the wall because I can't get my hands in there.....

The jigs I use are around 7 or 8" long by  1 3/4" wide so if there was a way to get the light strip tightly spiraled around the inside of a 2 1/2" piece of pvc that would put the lights 1/4" from all sides of the jig..... Anyone got any ides to accomplish this?

Pj
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wailua boy
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« Reply #33 on: May 09, 2021, 03:40:46 AM »

I thought I remember hearing flat white paint reflects better than aluminum foil, not sure if anyone can confirm or deny this
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philaroman
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« Reply #34 on: May 09, 2021, 05:19:10 AM »

LED light strip inside wire bracket; foil outside wire bracket; insert into tube of choice

could also use wide-mouth (or, custom-cut top) SS soup thermos polished inside...  these 64-oz. are HUGE
not sure if mouth is wide enough, but the wide part inside is well over 8" tall
BTW, pretty good sturdy bottle to get on spec., even if it doesn't quite work as charging station:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/TAL-Stainless-Steel-Ranger-Tumbler-Water-Bottle-64-fl-oz-Slate-Blue/984477723?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&adid=22222222222275653345&wmlspartner=wmtlabs&wl0=e&wl1=o&wl2=c&wl3=74492027616621&wl4=pla-4578091573768761&wl5=&wl6=&wl7=&wl10=Walmart&wl11=Online&wl12=984477723_0&wl14=tal%2064%20oz%20water%20bottle&veh=sem&msclkid=10d87ea34fb8108ea1441e343df0a4ee


* tal_64oz.jpeg (509.28 KB, 2000x2000 - viewed 13 times.)
« Last Edit: May 09, 2021, 06:10:31 AM by philaroman » Logged
philaroman
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« Reply #35 on: May 09, 2021, 07:43:18 AM »

anyway, why a tube/cylinder loaded from top -- why not, hinged box?
maybe get SS thermos just right size/shape & cut it length-wise
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pjstevko
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« Reply #36 on: May 09, 2021, 03:21:00 PM »

anyway, why a tube/cylinder loaded from top -- why not, hinged box?
maybe get SS thermos just right size/shape & cut it length-wise

Can't use a box because the light strip isn't flexible enough to make tight turns which is why I was thinking of doing a tight spiral
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philaroman
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« Reply #37 on: May 09, 2021, 04:34:50 PM »

the main body of that bottle (before it cones up) is approx. 8" x 4" ID
then, 2"+ coning up to mouth just under 2.5" wide...  if that helps
steel inside already better reflective surface than any foil...  could be polished more
could, maybe, drill holes for few individual "high-lumen" LED's instead of strip
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jurelometer
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« Reply #38 on: May 09, 2021, 10:06:53 PM »

As the risk of re-repeating:

1.  Just because a surface reflects visible light well, it does not mean that it reflects UV-A light well (common glass over silver mirrors being a good example).   At least for some frequencies of UV light stainless steel does not do a good job.  I did not bother to look up UV-A specifically, because you guys are not paying attention anyways Smiley

2.  Distance to the light is what makes or breaks your system - Look up the inverse square law- all you photographers out there that use flash know about this.  

For example, if your design moved the distance from the  light source to the jig surface form 1/2 inch to 2 inches, you would only have 1/16 the power (the inverse of the square of the change in distance).  You would need 16 times the number of lights, assuming that your power source was capable of running this meany bulbs at full steam.

------------------------------

The camera flash is a good idea.  What we want is a  more light for less time, which is what a flash is designed to do.  The covers/filters over the flash bulbs do filter out UV-light -something of a disadvantage.  While UV-A light is the most effective at charging glow pigments, visible light will also work- lots of visible light is better than a small amount of UV-A.   There could also be an effect on efficiency- for a given amount of energy the pigments will absorb more if it is delivered in a short blast vs a long steady drip (I seem to remember reading this but I am not certain that I am not getting this backwards).  Plus you can get the flash right up tight to the jig.

At any rate - you can't catch fish if your jig is not in the water, and the front end of the bite is often prime time for tuna,  so being able to quickly charge a jig is extremely valuable.  There are cheap, off the camera flashes out there.  Since the flash filters out the majority of UV light emitted by the bulb, you don't have to worry about having a very powerful light source that is invisible to the human eye, but still can be quite damaging.  And you can also use it for a camera flash Smiley

A quick note on UV light.  It is not visible to the human eye, but that does not mean it is safe.   That purple-ish glow from blacklight /UV-A bulbs is just a small fraction of the total light energy being emitted that ends up in the visible light spectrum.  You can be damaging you eyes without knowing it.   It is useful to minimize exposure to yourself and others, especially if you are using large amounts, or getting it close to your eyes.  Not an expert on the stuff, but I did read the warning label that came with my UV flashlight.

-J
« Last Edit: May 10, 2021, 07:26:54 PM by jurelometer » Logged
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