Advice Please? Hook Sharpening...

[DougK]

never figured this out to my satisfaction either.. can get a decent edge on a knife, using the Lansky kit, but my sharpened hooks are never better than 'not as bad as when I started'. Use the EZE Lap diamond pen sharpener, a small whetstone, small files, same same results.

Some of the flies I tie are fairly complex and time-consuming to tie up. One good whack on a rock, or repeatedly tumbled in the surf, and the point is dulled. I'm not going to toss the fly so resharpening is needed..

[Observer]

Good point (no pun intended) DougK.  I inadvertently categorized "small hooks" into a general bucket for the type of fishing that I do, and completely forgot about fly fishing applications where "small hooks" are indeed the norm.  My apologies.

Can totally understand that these are not as easily disposable given the amount of effort one would have spent to make a fly (if that's the right terminology).

In any scenario, I think we all can agree that when hooks are brand new, they are quite sharp, and I've even hear of them being referred to as "sticky sharp", which makes a lot sense after one has compared a "gently used" vs "brand new". 

Hence, an even stronger reason to know the PROPER METHOD AND TECHNIQUE to restore as all hooks aren't easily disposable and I see no reason why it can't be done.  One thing for sure is that myself and my friends are 100% convinced it's all user error since we are ignorant to the METHOD and TECHNIQUE, which with practice should yield favorable results.

[Brewcrafter]

Yes I think we are talking about a two different animals here - I don't think anyone on this forum would have an issue changing out a hook (even an expensive one) if it was simply a case of "tie a new one on" but when you start to look at hooks that are an integral part of the lure (intricately tied flies and streamers for example) or are not easily replaced when on the water (there is a great thread about replacing soldered rings on jigs - much great and valuable research done by both Bryan and The Boss) where in a pinch sharpening on the go to quickly get back on the bite is the way to go.
Researching "hook sharpening" as pointed out by DougK, Observer, Riverrat and others is a bit of an obtuse science, but maybe if we think of hook points as what they are - needles - there might be more info.  Tonight when the dreaded insomnia hits I think I will cruise the Worldwide Electronic Resource and see what I can find about sharpening medical suture needles, dental tools, etc. - "almost" makes me look forward to my next trip to the hygienist, since you know they don't discard those tools - they get cleaned, sharpened, autoclave sterilized and back at it.  Even carpet and upholstery needles are pretty substantial, and I suspect that they may be routinely sharpened as well.  I suspect there is an opportunity for knowledge gain here - john

[philaroman]

have some vintage Brit Sealey #4 octopus & old Gammy S/W fly in stainless
doesn't hold point as well as high-carbon & bends more easily (also, no good for C&R),
but easy to re-sharpen & re-shape many times before metal fatigue becomes a concern
(w/ light-wire high-carbon, if I have to bend it back a little once or twice, I'll replace even if point is good)

not all hook-points are needles -- for permanent placement IN a prized lure/fly,
maybe try a point style specifically designed for repeated/multiple sharpening:
anything other than "needle" -- triple-ground, knife, sword, beak, forged point...  
maybe not as "sticky" as chemically sharpened needle straight from pack,
but you can return it to original/intended condition, again and again

BTW, not even on this Forum, where people machine & anodize at home
has anyone mentioned "home chemical sharpening"    so forget "like new"