New to Newell - Tib XN kit - Need diagram

Started by Decker, June 16, 2021, 04:55:39 AM

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Decker

I have a Newell 229 G that was working until I took it apart.   Got one of Randy's XN kits.  I disassembled everything except the bridge/jack/pinion/eccentric which stayed in place.  I found one of the "nubs" that hold the side plates to the inner rings badly corroded. I ordered a set of screws and nubs from eBay (a member here sells the sets.). Today I tried to assemble everything, admittedly from memory.  This is how I proceeded: 1) Inner rings to frame.  Used a combo of old and new screws.   It sure if I used the right ones but the rings are solidly attached to the frame.  2) Put the drag stack together with CF and Cal's and put it on the 980 (name escapes me.). 3) Mounted the bridge assembly to the head plate.  4) Put the spool in and  attached the head plate assembly to the frame.  4) There is a heavy brass washer/nut that fits on top of the drag stack that fits from outside.  Then the drag star, washer, handle, plastic washer, and Newell nut.

It didn't work.  Here is what I observe:

There is a spring like thing that goes somewhere on the 980 that I never found a place for. I suspect it needs to go inside the plate.

When the spool is in, it doesn't move freely.   Binds up against the inner rings - tolerance is quite close.
I'm not sure I put the star on correctly, but assume the side that protrudes more goes down toward the drag.

Randy's kit also came with one small washer that I understand is to be used to shim the spool.  Where does that go?

Definitely there is a substantial difference from assembling a Penn.  I like the way the bridge components hold together.  The variety of screws is a little baffling.  The way the frame and plates assemble make it really strong.  Those SS rings aren't just "beauty rings."

Any tips are much appreciated.

Cheers,
/Joe

Swami805

The spring? like a wavey washer? it goes between the star and handle.
1st thing to check is the bearing caps and get the spool centered,might need a shim or two on one side or another. Tighten the handle side cap all the way to start, usually that's how it should be. Should be a little play just like the spool in a penn.
I've done a few kits, sometimes they snap together like legos, sometimes it takes some shims and adjustments.
One other thing to check is the nub of the eccentric spring that sticks out on the back of the bridge. It should be close to flush, might need to file it a little.
I'm assuming everything works before you put the side plate on the frame.
Do what you can with that you have where you are

PacRat


Bryan Young

Hi Joe,

I would remove the side plates then loosen the inner rings. Push upwards from the bottom of the ring and then tighten. Then repeat with the other ring. Try to put pressure at the same point between both rings. This should help align the position of both inner rings.

Then reassemble and see if this helps with the binding.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Decker

#4
Thanks all, for the quick overnight advice and info!  It may take a while before I get back to it -- time is tight.

It just occurred to me...  West Coast support -- you guys are like a 24x7 global support team.

Vintage Offshore Tackle

Joe, I provide the shim because there is a lot of variation in spool spacing from one Newell to the next.  It is not always necessary to use it.

If after following all of the directions provided above, you cannot center the spool or if it is making contact with anything, then place the shim inside the bearing cap under the bearing to move the spool one way or the other.  Before installing the shim, check to see if there are already shims installed which may need to be removed.

Good luck!

Randy

PacRat

I would like to add to Bryan's good advice. I call it 'racking the frame'. This is more important on the old three-piece frames but it will sometimes help with the Tiburon one-piece frames. 1) Install your inner rings snug but not completely tight. 2) Install your spool and side-plates. 3) Adjust your spool for center with minimal contact. (at this point the only contact should be your spool flanges on the inner rings.) 4) Give your spool a good spin. 5) While your spool is spinning, grasp both side plates and twist them in opposite directions like you're opening a jar. If counter-clock-wise doesn't work, try clock-wise. You're looking for the sweet-spot where your rings do not contact your spool. 6) If it spins cleanly with zero contact you are done and can tighten the screws on the inner ring to the frame. Note: If this does not work you have two options; either slightly enlarge the screw holes in the inner rings or remove some material from the inner edge of the rings (or a little of both). You can paint a little white-out or liquid paper on the edge of your ring and any contact will wear the white away. Also try swapping spools if you have another available. VERY IMPORTANT!!...it's always easier to remove a little more material than it is to put some back on...so go slow and keep tweaking until it is to your satisfaction.
-Mike

Newell Nut

If you fail to get it to work just box it up and send it to me. Send me a PM first.

Dwight

Decker

Well, I gave it a couple of tries, and decided to let Dwight show me how it's done.  Thank you, Dwight!   She's a beauty.  Close tolerance between the spool and frame.  Spins great.  I intend to put 15lb braid on it and use it for Jersey shore and bottom fishing,  Tog are in season, and I hope to get out on a jetty soon.

No clamp on this reel because of space limitations on the bottom of the frame.  I wonder how others are securing it.  Maybe I'll tape it.

Also, I wonder about filling in some of the back ends of the drilled holes in the frame, to avoid corrosion.  Thinking to use some kind of wax.

Thanks for all of the help and advice.  Wish me luck catching!




thorhammer


Newell Nut

Once you lock it in a reel seat it is not going anywhere. When I fished Hawaii I noticed they don't use rod clamps fishing for big ulua. Some of mine don't have rod clamps either. No worry. I do prefer to build my personal rods with Alps Aluminum seats with double locking nuts.

Dwight

Decker

I started spooling Spiderwire Stealth 15lb (0.21mm) on the reel.  I had two 125yd spools, and that is not really quite enough to fill the spool.  Looks like it could take another 125 yards of the same.  250 yds is certainly enough to fish.  Probably I'll back the line off and put something under it, maybe dacron.  I'd rather not back it with mono because it holds water, and would rather not pay for more braid.  The dacron I have is a lot thicker, but if I lay it evenly, I think it should work well.  Or maybe I'll leave it as is, since I don't plan on any long casting. 

steelfish

Quote from: Decker on November 03, 2021, 05:11:21 PM
......maybe dacron.  I'd rather not back it with mono because it holds water, ..

isnt that backwards?    Dacron is the one that holds water and may cause the spool to corrode, maybe I have the wrong info.

The Baja Guy

Decker

Quote from: steelfish on November 03, 2021, 06:13:34 PM
Quote from: Decker on November 03, 2021, 05:11:21 PM
......maybe dacron.  I'd rather not back it with mono because it holds water, ..

isnt that backwards?    Dacron is the one that holds water and may cause the spool to corrode, maybe I have the wrong info.


Maybe I'm wrong.  I'm only as smart as what I read, and sometimes memory fails.

Swami805

I'd use Dacron for backing not a huge difference though. With the spool only filled up like that it will really affect your IPT since the diameter of the spool is so small
Do what you can with that you have where you are