alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial New to Newell - Tib XN kit - Need diagram
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
August 02, 2021, 06:40:11 AM *
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Author Topic: New to Newell - Tib XN kit - Need diagram  (Read 1161 times)
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Decker
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« on: June 16, 2021, 04:55:39 AM »

I have a Newell 229 G that was working until I took it apart.   Got one of Randy’s XN kits.  I disassembled everything except the bridge/jack/pinion/eccentric which stayed in place.  I found one of the “nubs” that hold the side plates to the inner rings badly corroded. I ordered a set of screws and nubs from eBay (a member here sells the sets.). Today I tried to assemble everything, admittedly from memory.  This is how I proceeded: 1) Inner rings to frame.  Used a combo of old and new screws.   It sure if I used the right ones but the rings are solidly attached to the frame.  2) Put the drag stack together with CF and Cal’s and put it on the 980 (name escapes me.). 3) Mounted the bridge assembly to the head plate.  4) Put the spool in and  attached the head plate assembly to the frame.  4) There is a heavy brass washer/nut that fits on top of the drag stack that fits from outside.  Then the drag star, washer, handle, plastic washer, and Newell nut.

It didn’t work.  Here is what I observe:

There is a spring like thing that goes somewhere on the 980 that I never found a place for. I suspect it needs to go inside the plate.

When the spool is in, it doesn’t move freely.   Binds up against the inner rings - tolerance is quite close.
I’m not sure I put the star on correctly, but assume the side that protrudes more goes down toward the drag.

Randy’s kit also came with one small washer that I understand is to be used to shim the spool.  Where does that go?

Definitely there is a substantial difference from assembling a Penn.  I like the way the bridge components hold together.  The variety of screws is a little baffling.  The way the frame and plates assemble make it really strong.  Those SS rings aren’t just “beauty rings.”

Any tips are much appreciated.

Cheers,
/Joe
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Swami805
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« Reply #1 on: June 16, 2021, 05:27:22 AM »

The spring? like a wavey washer? it goes between the star and handle.
1st thing to check is the bearing caps and get the spool centered,might need a shim or two on one side or another. Tighten the handle side cap all the way to start, usually that's how it should be. Should be a little play just like the spool in a penn.
I've done a few kits, sometimes they snap together like legos, sometimes it takes some shims and adjustments.
One other thing to check is the nub of the eccentric spring that sticks out on the back of the bridge. It should be close to flush, might need to file it a little.
I'm assuming everything works before you put the side plate on the frame.
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PacRat
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« Reply #2 on: June 16, 2021, 06:18:05 AM »

https://alantani.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=29633.0;attach=77941;image
Here's the G series schematic.

-Mike
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #3 on: June 16, 2021, 06:38:26 AM »

Hi Joe,

I would remove the side plates then loosen the inner rings. Push upwards from the bottom of the ring and then tighten. Then repeat with the other ring. Try to put pressure at the same point between both rings. This should help align the position of both inner rings.

Then reassemble and see if this helps with the binding.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #4 on: June 16, 2021, 12:15:01 PM »

Thanks all, for the quick overnight advice and info!  It may take a while before I get back to it -- time is tight.

It just occurred to me...  West Coast support -- you guys are like a 24x7 global support team.
« Last Edit: June 16, 2021, 12:20:25 PM by Decker » Logged
Vintage Offshore Tackle
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« Reply #5 on: June 16, 2021, 02:19:20 PM »

Joe, I provide the shim because there is a lot of variation in spool spacing from one Newell to the next.  It is not always necessary to use it.

If after following all of the directions provided above, you cannot center the spool or if it is making contact with anything, then place the shim inside the bearing cap under the bearing to move the spool one way or the other.  Before installing the shim, check to see if there are already shims installed which may need to be removed.

Good luck!

Randy
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PacRat
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« Reply #6 on: June 16, 2021, 07:11:41 PM »

I would like to add to Bryan's good advice. I call it 'racking the frame'. This is more important on the old three-piece frames but it will sometimes help with the Tiburon one-piece frames. 1) Install your inner rings snug but not completely tight. 2) Install your spool and side-plates. 3) Adjust your spool for center with minimal contact. (at this point the only contact should be your spool flanges on the inner rings.) 4) Give your spool a good spin. 5) While your spool is spinning, grasp both side plates and twist them in opposite directions like you're opening a jar. If counter-clock-wise doesn't work, try clock-wise. You're looking for the sweet-spot where your rings do not contact your spool. 6) If it spins cleanly with zero contact you are done and can tighten the screws on the inner ring to the frame. Note: If this does not work you have two options; either slightly enlarge the screw holes in the inner rings or remove some material from the inner edge of the rings (or a little of both). You can paint a little white-out or liquid paper on the edge of your ring and any contact will wear the white away. Also try swapping spools if you have another available. VERY IMPORTANT!!...it's always easier to remove a little more material than it is to put some back on...so go slow and keep tweaking until it is to your satisfaction.
-Mike
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Newell Nut
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« Reply #7 on: June 16, 2021, 11:44:43 PM »

If you fail to get it to work just box it up and send it to me. Send me a PM first.

Dwight
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