Fibre washer carbon drag sleeve washer upgrade

[afj516]

Folks,
I read some old posts from a few folks about a fibre washer upgrade that can be done to Penn 320/113H with mainstay washers from an old discontinued Penn Line Counter 875(?).
Unfortunately, when I search the old Penn catalog parts, it is discontinued.  I contacted Smooth Drag and they said that they have a similar (outer diameter 26mm) washer (#33) that I can Dremel to the proper specifications.  I haven't trembled a washer yet, so before I do...
Does anybody know of another fix or company that makes a workaround? Penn 320GTi part# 4-349? Penn113H part #4-349 Penn 114 part # 4-114?
I just replaced the fibre main washer on my Diawa 50H, like I read in the posts on this site and I sure like the extra stopping power available.
Any help is appreciated
Andy

[alantani]

the washers from smoothdrag will work just fine. some guys use delrin, but i still prefer all carbon fiber for the entire stack.  remember that there are two thicknesses of penn ht-100 drag washers.  the thin ones are unfortunately too thin and the weave is too loose, so they get badly compressed and worn out.  the thick ones like the 6-875 are too thick.  smoothdrag has a washer that is the same thickness as the thinner penn washers, but the weave is tight enough that the washer will not fall apart.  for me, this is definitely the way to go. 

[afj516]

I am going with her (Dawn's) mainstay replacement washer for the 320GTi and am going to Dremel it to the base washer if necessary. I just read a few other posts where some senior members recommended putting the washer between two other washers in order to Dremel to the right size. I am going to match the delrin base washer with a few metals in the drawer and take it from there.  Dawn sent me a picture of the 6-114 in relation to a few others including the 310 mainstay washer to educate me on the fitment.  Great resource with alot of helpful people!

[Brewcrafter]

Andy - Before you fire up the Dremel (have one, love it, use it all the time) one trick I find handy for opening up the ID on CF is to use a common step drill bit twisting it by hand.  Usually the cutting surfaces are pretty sharp and unlike with a high speed Dremel, your "ooops" factor goes way down.  And usually there is a diameter that is pretty close to what you are looking for.  And it keeps the cut pretty much concentric (and best as you can hope to do by hand). - john

[afj516]

Good advice. With the means I have available (I don't have a step drill); I can use a hand drill with a similar sized bit to the diameter I am working towards while clamping the washer down with some kind of thrown together jig, (which is easy enough).  Or I can lightly vise-grip it between two metal washers and ream out the washer with a dremel.  It is using the two washers with the right sized inner diameter that is going to greatly reduce my woops factor.  The outer diameter can be matched to the delrin washer with some old metal washers I have in a drawer and that can reduce the woops factor there as well.  Should be some fairly accurate hobbling and I'll get the drag power I'm hoping for.  I just picked up the washer jig thing by reading the posts from some senior members on here after I fairly butchered a cf delrin base washer swap.

[handi2]

I use Delrin washers only but if you want to use the HT-100 washer just use the same drag washer used in the main gear.

[afj516]

handi2,  as per Alan's post.  I am purchasing a tighter weave thin carbontex washer from Dawn that will hold up under the main.  It is a good idea if the Carbontex #15 washer were not available.  Definitely good to have "hobbling" options to get my reels where I think I need them.

[afj516]

Updating,  I am going to use Delrin spacer for the highest performance possible.   Sometimes it just pays to go with design integrity instead of modifying.  I hope it will be enough drag to put a hurting on an over or giant tuna.  (Fingers crossed).