New to Daiwa, picked up some yard sale finds.

Started by Wolfram M, July 04, 2021, 09:42:35 PM

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Wolfram M

Been fishing most of my life-but I'm land-locked, so it's all freshwater lake fishing unless I make an 8-hour drive south to the Gulf.

Wandering through a barn-sale, I found a box of fishing reels...most in very poor, very rusty or incomplete condition, but two stood out as having good potential, a Daiwa 70X and a 130X.

The little 70X needs the anti-reverse switch replaced, as it's completely missing and there's a hole left open in the bottom of the body, and the reel is quite stiff, so definitely needs cleaned and regreased. The 70X also won't kick the bail over, the internal bail trip mechanism isn't working. The bail wire was popped out of the line roller and flopping in the box, too. One of the decals on the body is gone, and it was *very* dirty.

The bigger 130X seems to be unused, it shows almost no wear other than corners and dings from being in the box of old reels, the drag seems to work well and they were readily converted to left-handed operation for me. Not even any wear on the stickers, to speak of.

Any tips on how to get the little 70X working in good shape? I can take photos of them when I disassemble them for cleaning, but so far I can't find the anti-reverse lever for the 70 anywhere on the internet yet. Is there any other model that would have the right switch? I see the 700C, but it's a much nicer looking reel and I don't think it has the same style anti-reverse.

Wompus Cat

If a Grass Hopper Carried a Shotgun then the Birds wouldn't MESS with Him

alantani

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

happyhooker


Wolfram M

Got some time this evening after dinner to have a look at this, and so I pulled it all down after reading Festus's thread on the reel, and had a go.



Mine's a bit faded, and it was a little crunchy cranking, and very stiff. The handle threads would tighten up as I tried to turn it past the bail kicker.

Pulled it all down, and started scrubbing with some aluminum-safe degreaser I use for machine parts, and noticed mine's a bit different, mine has cast-in-place bronze bushings in the body instead of the white Delrin bushings I see on others. Maybe the 70X is too small to go for the plastic bushings?



Hard to see before scrubbing the main body out, but same kind of cast-in bronze.



Same for the rotor bushing. Visible from the inside, but a very thin sleeve visible from the outside. Mostly die cast body showing.



Got the bits all scrubbed down, every screw/clip/pin taken out and scrubbed, then all the major assemblies greased with Yamaha blue and put back together.

This is the only worrysome bit and it's hard to get my phone camera to take a good photo here. This is the spool-side of the rotor, and that grainy gritty looking bit is part of the rotor casting. I initially thought it was just grit and old packed grease but it's actually die cast.



Even after cleaning and re-greasing, it's still a pretty stiff reel and the bail kicker still doesn't work. It doesn't feel like I'll break the handle off now, but it will usually only kick the bail halfway closed, unless you're really giving it the business and snap that handle over fast-then it'll flip the rest of the way shut. I was hoping it would be as smooth and free as the 130X that I got with it, but I guess the 130X is just that much nicer-You can see it's in better condition right off the bat in the below photo:



The 130x is just smooth and free-spinning as any new reel I've ever owned. I haven't even taken this one apart to see what kind of shape it's in inside, it's that nice.

I did not take apart either drag stack yet either, both feel like they are still working properly and both adjust down from barely there to fairly tight and adjust smoothly.

Lucky me...I texted a few of my fishing friends to see if they had any of these old Daiwas and I have been commanded to "Come get this box of old junky japanese reels". I asked what's in the box...Daiwa 2800X, 250X, and a 1600X, a couple of newer Shimanos with plastic bodies, and two Daiwa red reels with black plastic spools. He says the red ones are trash, the drags won't adjust at all and one of them the spool is broken, the silver daiwas have bail kicker issues, and the shimanos are "plastic junk" so we'll see what's what when I can pick up the box of reels.

Here's hoping that the reels I don't care for or can't fix are easy to find homes for. I need more junk like I need a hole drilled through my face. (I own a small machine shop and tend to drag home broken machines to fix...and parts machines to fix them with...I have FAR too much junk!)

Wompus Cat

Quoteby Wolfram M 
Here's hoping that the reels I don't care for or can't fix are easy to find homes for. I need more junk like I need a hole drilled through my face. (I own a small machine shop and tend to drag home broken machines to fix...and parts machines to fix them with...I have FAR too much junk!)


Got a Bridgeport in that Machine Shop ?

and you can't have too much Junk .
He who Dies with the most Toys Wins!!!!
Nice Job on your Reel Repair .
If a Grass Hopper Carried a Shotgun then the Birds wouldn't MESS with Him

Wolfram M

2 30-taper CNC mills, a small Logan 820 lathe, and a half-worn-out Bridgeport clone, as soon as I can get into a larger building I'll be getting a pair of CNC lathes so I can halfway try to keep up with my turning work coming in.

I wish I could call it repaired-I guess I need to find a bail spring for it.

PacRat

Bails are tricky and I'm sure there are others here with more experience than me but here's my two cents worth: There are three things that will really screw up a bail...dirt, weak springs, bent or poor geometry of the bail.

The dirt is easy, clean that out first before doing anything else. Remove and clean your springs at the same time.

Inspect and compare the springs to each other and or photos if you can find them online. If they are bent, distorted or deformed; you can attempt to tweak them back into shape but you might want to start sourcing replacements.

Reassemble the bail without the springs and flip it back and fourth. There should be little to no friction. The bail should flip the full arc without binding. If it binds you will need to tweak the bail wire until it no longer binds.

Reassemble the bail with the springs in place. It should now be pretty snappy so give it a whirl and make sure the trip is releasing it.

Go easy on the lube. Leave the springs and pivot screws dry if you can so it wont attract dirt and grit. You can experiment with alternate lubes like a dry silicone that won't leave residue. Wax and polish will sometimes work also. If you do need oil; use a light oil and less is more. The only place I would put any  grease is at bumps or trips which trigger the bail to trip (again less is more).

I hope this helps
-Mike


philaroman

I'm thinking what you have is a parts reel  :(
that big fuzzy photo appears to show significant corrosion/erosion
where pinion is permanently attached to rotor
not even worth trying to fix, unless both gears are in great shape,
which I doubt, from the reel's overall condition

Daiwas smaller than 1/10/100/1000-size have a fan-club & are in demand
either pass your reel on to someone who already has the bug,
or get into it FOR REEL  ;D  shelve your "good start" & look for MORE
there should be several silver AND GOLD 70/700/GS-0 models that use same parts
more importantly, there should be couple less-desired, cheaper black(?) graphite 70's/700's
that would give you all the parts you need (sorry, don't know which ones)

PacRat

Check ebay real good. This is likely what your part looked like before corrosion,
https://www.ebay.com/itm/303334103808?hash=item46a01f1b00:g:0g4AAOSwGzBdscO9.

If nothing else the auction site is a good source for reference photos

-Mike

Wolfram M

#10
Quote from: philaroman on July 05, 2021, 03:22:10 PM
I'm thinking what you have is a parts reel  :(
that big fuzzy photo appears to show significant corrosion/erosion
where pinion is permanently attached to rotor
not even worth trying to fix, unless both gears are in great shape,
which I doubt, from the reel's overall condition


All four of the reels I have from this series now (I picked up a A-100RL, a 160x and a NIB 250X today for 7$) show the same fractured-looking face there-I think it's where the zamak alloy pinion is pressed/riveted/cast in place and then broken off when drilled through. I'll try to get a sharper picture today.

PacRat

I went back over you thread and I'm wondering if your grease isn't making it a bit stiff. What I would do is; remove the winding rotor and pinion. Then burnish the shaft hole a bit. To do this use a slightly smaller drill bit with some steel wool wrapped around it. Stainless steel wool is best and brass wool is second best. Run that steel wool Q-tip in and out with a drill motor and be sure to have some light oil on the steel wool. This will clean up any burrs or corrosion. You should clean and polish the rotor shaft also.

When you re-assemble use oil on this instead of grease. If this is to be used in fresh water you won't need as much grease except for on your gear teeth.

-Mike

Wolfram M

I wondered about oil vs grease, but everything I read here just said blue yamaha grease, which I have around anyway as I use it in some of the machine tools.

I've almost got the full set of the X series, after today-I've got the stiff and bail-needs work 70x, the perfect 130x, a 160x that the rotor is a bit wobbly on and the line roller screw is badly bent, and a 250x that seems to be in as good of condition as the 130X but the spool has a gnarly jagged nick in it. Only missing the 100X I think?

Parts to hunt down seem to be:

70X:
Anti-reverse lever, cam, and screw, bail spring

160X:
Looks like it needs a thrust washer under the rotor, it wobbles a lot compared to the rest, but is very smooth and clean inside, I have a line roller screw.

250X:
Might need a spool. I can make one if I can't find one or fix this one with a bit of micro TIG welding.

Bad thing is now I need a rod to fit them on-I almost bought a "new-ish" yellow Eagle Claw Graphite rod when I found the 160X today, but they wanted 30$ for it and the tip top was broken off. I can always go back and get it, it isn't likely going anywhere.

Swami805

$30 seems pretty steep for a rod with a broken tip, see if you can talk them down some. If it's yellow it's fiberglass not graphite unless it's painted or something.Fiberglass is nice in a ultra light, I have a few.
Do what you can with that you have where you are

Wolfram M

It's a graphite rod-it's not an old yellow eagle claw, it's a newly made one that's colored yellow to play on the old brand.

I went back to talk them down on it but they weren't having it, so I picked up an inexpensive rod out of the "Barrel O' Rods" at the local pawn shop. It fit the reel, says "Medium Action" and "10-17lb Line" on it, so it's good 'nuff till it isn't.

The 130X gets to see some action tomorrow, I'm going to go out and see if I can find some hybrids off the points of my local lake.