BNIB Tica Team ST468 with jerky drags... what to do?

[williewiskers]

I recently bought two Tica Team reels; an ST468 and an ST668R. The 468 has the exact same line capacity as my 12T and the 668 has the exact same line capacity as an Int. 30 Global - so I intended to pair them each with their Penn counterpart on the spread.

My process of spooling involves temporarily spooling the 100yd topshot on the BOTTOM of the spool then "filling" the reel with the braid off the bulk spool with only the tension from by feet holding the spool. This is to get the "real" capacity of the reel. Then I make the service reel stationary in a rod holder and use a tanked Penn 114 on a standup rod to draw all the braid off, then spin the mono topshot off on a smaller empty reel. At this point ill FG knot a small mono backing and begin applying the braid at VERY high tension to the spindle - but on the ST468 I never got to that point

As I was drawing the line off with the 114 I was getting THE WORST drag jerking I have ever felt - including from old thick Penn drag disks. It was so bad I hoped I could get the line off. After successfully removing the line I opened the 468 and lightly greased the drag plates with Cal's and re-assembled. I put a small amount of 50# mono on the spindle and did a couple dozen 30ft long pulls as fast as I could. The line tension was set at 20# at strike. The jerking was still there and was more pronounced the slower you pulled, but still about 5x less than dry. They felt smooth when pulling fast - which is something that did not happen when dry.

Ive sent an email and a FB message to Tica, but im not hopeful on support from this company.

The new ST668R is silky smooth dry, I removed 330yds of 50# mono from that reel and it was buttery smooth.


Any recommendations?

The Wiskers

[Rancanfish]

Well, dig into the drag stack and see what's up.  If as I suspect, your steel washers aren't smooth you can lay down some sand paper and rub them in circles until flat.

[williewiskers]

Rancanfish,

This is a lever drag, there is no "stack". It has two CF drag washers bonded to two opposing aluminum plates with a fixed stainless steel plate between them. Somewhat similar to 5th gen Penn Duradrag configuration


The Wiskers

[MarkT]

You evenly grease the fiber washers then dry them off. You don't grease the drag plate.

[williewiskers]

You evenly grease the fiber washers then dry them off. You don't grease the drag plate.

That's precisely what I did. Im aware of the tendency of liberally greased lever drag washers to "float" if over greased. There is an absolute minimum of drag grease on the CF washers

[Rancanfish]

Ah, that may be a bit different.  Maybe the plate in the middle is not flat.  Drags is drags.  I have no idea when it comes to lever drags.  My last one was a Tld 5 lol.

[williewiskers]

Ah, that may be a bit different.  Maybe the plate in the middle is not flat.  Drags is drags.  I have no idea when it comes to lever drags.  My last one was a Tld 5 lol.

I have many Penn and a few Shimano LD's. I cant see what could be causing the problem other than manufacturing defect. The drags are bonded to the driver plates. The plate in the middle is a complex shape part with recesses on the drag surface on both sides - conceivably to have been "ground flat" by a precision milling machine.

You cant exactly get parts for these reels from Mystic Parts.com... im trying to determine if it was just a bad move to have tried with a chinese reel - even one that's supposed to be halfway decent

[williewiskers]

Ah, that may be a bit different.  Maybe the plate in the middle is not flat.  Drags is drags.  I have no idea when it comes to lever drags.  My last one was a Tld 5 lol.

Go look what that TLD 5 is worth nowadays!

[nelz]

Willie, I have a ST458 that had the same issue. I think the oil in the spool bearings was leaking into the drag. After cleaning them off and regreasing with Cal's, I had to go in again and wipe off some of the Cal's before it finally got smooth. Definitely less is better with these reels' drags. I think they work best dry (if you're willing to do that). Hope this helps.

On another note, does the drag adjustment knob on your ST468 turn smoothly or does it click?

[philaroman]

many years ago, when Tica was new, I needed some rod info
their CS was beyond responsive -- downright, eager
has that changed?

[williewiskers]

Willie, I have a ST458 that had the same issue. I think the oil in the spool bearings was leaking into the drag. After cleaning them off and regreasing with Cal's, I had to go in again and wipe off some of the Cal's before it finally got smooth. Definitely less is better with these reels' drags. I think they work best dry (if you're willing to do that). Hope this helps.

On another note, does the drag adjustment knob on your ST468 turn smoothly or does it click?

Ill try cleaning them off completely with solvent. I did notice oil around the drags, its likely that it got on them like you said. My preset knob clicks when its turned.

Ill definately try dry first after cleaning off. The ST668R is dry and smooth as a greased Penn under very high pressure.


Thanks for your advice!

[williewiskers]

many years ago, when Tica was new, I needed some rod info
their CS was beyond responsive -- downright, eager
has that changed?

I have never owned or dealt with Tica before. I was assuming since they are such a small player in the US and a chinese company i wouldnt get anywhere. That might prove wrong, well see. I have emails and FB messages out as of today.

I didnt find 100% correct parts diagrams or anyone on the interwebs selling parts - so that isnt a good sign.

[williewiskers]

I dont often "clean" CF drags vs. replace them.... is it "Carb cleaner" or "brake cleaner" that you use?

TYIA

[Wompus Cat]

If the Drags are to be Dry I would start over and clean everything associated with the Washers ,Disks etc with BRAKE CLEANER (It removes ALL OIL )Please  WEAR GLOVES   in a ventilated area or outside .
I would get a piece of Marble or Glass and lightly sand everything with 2000 grit wet /dry sand paper .
and RE-Brake Clean them once more and reassemble .If some grease is needed then you are starting with Fresh Material that will absorb it properly . Carb Cleaner is For Carburetors not Reels in my opinion and does not do the job that Brake Cleaner does  for Discs and such.
Good Luck to you .

[williewiskers]

If the Drags are to be Dry I would start over and clean everything associated with the Washers ,Disks etc with BRAKE CLEANER (It removes ALL OIL )Please  WEAR GLOVES   in a ventilated area or outside .
I would get a piece of Marble or Glass and lightly sand everything with 2000 grit wet /dry sand paper .
and RE-Brake Clean them once more and reassemble .If some grease is needed then you are starting with Fresh Material that will absorb it properly . Carb Cleaner is For Carburetors not Reels in my opinion and does not do the job that Brake Cleaner does  for Discs and such.
Good Luck to you .

I can do the brake cleaner, but that's it. There's no sanding the stainless drag plate in between the two drag/driver plates - the center of the plate is recessed in the center on each side where the drag/driver plate makes contact. Presumably because it was slightly ground with a milling machine to make that part of the face even.

I just want to be certain that the BRAKE CLEANER wont de-bond the CF material from the driver plates. Think gen 6 duradrag setup on an International - that's basically what it is.