alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial TUTORIAL: Shimano Calcutta 201 TE
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: TUTORIAL: Shimano Calcutta 201 TE  (Read 30995 times)
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Killerbug
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« on: January 18, 2012, 04:55:58 PM »

I have the joy of getting one of these fine reels in for service, and want to share my experiences with you. Shimano Calcutta TE is Shimanos flag ship, and the favorite reel of many esox anglers.  Like my other tutorials I do not go into details with procedures that are common in most reels, like handle, levelvind system etc.





As you can see, this one had taken a heavy toll of abuse, from saltwater I guess .



First we remove the handle, like on any other baitcaster.



Next thing was to remove the spool. Release the spool cover by unscrew the large nob seen here on the
drive side.




Now unscrew the brake case, by turning it counter clock wise, the spool bearings was in fine condition on this reel regardless of the amount of corossion found in other places, amazing!. That's why I only use high end bearings when doing reels for others, would never fill a costomer luxery reel with the cheap stuff.



I prefer to remove the side plate compleatly when working on this reel, Remove the screw attaching it to the
frame at lift it off.



Next remove the left sideplate(on a standard reel the right). Important that the spool is removed, as this part can stick a little. Use this photo as reference when assampling the reel.



Then lift of the main gear, carefull not the bend the leaves on the anti reverse dog.





Remove the driveshaft plate, by unscrew the two screws, then lift it off. The driveshaft bearing was sincerely coroded
and had to be replaced.



Remove the pinion gear.



At this stage i swiched my attention to the level vind, on this reel the pawl cap was rusted so it could
not be removed without extensive force, so I left it. But you don't need to compleatly dissample it
for cleaning anyway. TE owners, keep the pawl cap clean and lubed.



Use some steel wool to remove rust and corossion



Now remove the clutch cam retainer, by uncrew the two small screws.



Now remove the clutch cam, and the click lever(clutch pawl).  Beware to reinstall the clutch spring
exactly as it should!, this means with the having the longest wire strand pointing towards the
frame edge, attaching the shorter end to the pawl.  So do what I say, and not what I did in my first attemt
to rebuild this reel Wink



Clean the pinion bearing, it can be gently tapped out.



Remove the e-clip keeping the thumb bar release in place, and tap this steel bar out. Then it can easily be
removed and cleaned.



Now clean the frame, and we can slowly begin to rebuild the reel. Resample the thumb bar release, and the levelvind, then
grease up the frame under the clutch mechanism.





Pack the pinoin bearing with grese and put it back into the frame. Add some grease under the clutch cam, and mount it toghether with the click lever. Then mount the clutch cam retainer. Put the driveshaft back in place, don't forget to pack the driveshaft bearing with grease.



Notice some corossion on the frame close to the reel foot, cleaned it and added some graese to protect the spot.



Clean the pinion



Clean the IAR bearing, and the spool bearing on the drive side plate. Give both a drop of oil.




Then it's time to clean the main gear, as well as the drag washers. On this reel I cleaned the
standard Shimano washers with some lighter fuel.



Now mount the anti reverse rachet, and the anti reverse dog.



I greased the the drag washers with a new PTFE polymer based grease I am testing, and stacked them back into
the main gear, add the anti reverse sleeve on top.



Mount the pinion, and grease the gears.



Now we can close the driveside, and mount the handle bearing. I pack it with
some of my PTFE grease.



Mount the handle, and the cast control cap, and we are done.




« Last Edit: April 15, 2014, 11:34:39 AM by Killerbug » Logged

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kamuwela
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« Reply #1 on: January 18, 2012, 05:03:58 PM »

great job thank you for sharing.
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redsetta
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« Reply #2 on: January 18, 2012, 05:14:13 PM »

Nice work Morten.
Cheers, Justin
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wallacewt
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« Reply #3 on: January 18, 2012, 07:51:17 PM »

there are not to many blokes on this site that will ever let their reels get in that state anymore.good job killerbug
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Jayce
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« Reply #4 on: January 18, 2012, 10:32:29 PM »

Wow Great job dude.

The owner of that reel needs to do regular Preventive Maintenance.
Calcuttas are built like tanks but still need TLC like all things  Grin

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alantani
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« Reply #5 on: January 19, 2012, 01:38:17 AM »

morten, great post, and stickied, but we need to get some carbontex drag washers to you.
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send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
Killerbug
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« Reply #6 on: January 19, 2012, 03:16:33 AM »

Yea, would be cool to add some Carbonex to this Calcutta, but I did not stock any that would fit the TE, I do a 24H
repair service, so mostly I only add them on demand.  Would love to work on the 400 TE one day, preferable one that
is less abused.

@Jayce

The owner told me he had used it for inshore fishing, and he does not regulary rinse it in freshwater after use.  I am not sure if that would have helped
on the insides of the reel though?
« Last Edit: January 19, 2012, 03:33:12 AM by Killerbug » Logged

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inhotpursuit
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« Reply #7 on: January 19, 2012, 12:46:20 PM »

Very nice tutorial Morten rinseing the calcutta's after using in salt water is always a good idea but more importantly stripping and relubeing the new reel is often a good solution to premature corrosion ,all of my shimano reels were insufficiantly greased out of the box, the corrosion on the reel foot could also be cross corrosion from the reel seat on the rod i have noticed on some of my customers rods have cheap alluminum reel seats and corrode very fast which transfers to the corrosion to the reel foot
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jimbolim
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« Reply #8 on: January 24, 2012, 10:39:34 PM »

Very nice tutorial! I have a right handed model. it is built like a tank, cast and retrieve very smooth, but not a big fan of its drag system. I swapped it out to carbontex but havent really had chance to put it to use.
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Nat
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« Reply #9 on: July 29, 2012, 03:30:17 PM »

I'm curious about the differences between the TE 200 and the 200b ?

can ya'll help me out ?
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Dr. Jekyll - AKA MeL B
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« Reply #10 on: July 30, 2012, 06:59:09 AM »

Nat,  hope these 2 links help;

Calcutta TE

http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/products/reels/round_baitcasting/Calcutta_TE.html

Calcutta B

http://fish.shimano.com/publish/content/global_fish/en/us/index/products/reels/round_baitcasting/Calcutta.html

i think the main differences between the 2 are;

TE less plastic parts(more metal parts), more bearings....and welcome to Mr. Tani's  neighborhood!
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Nessie Hunter
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« Reply #11 on: July 30, 2012, 10:48:52 AM »

Well done with some Great Pictures!!!

Just me, but I avoid Steel Wool like the plague!!!! 
Removes finish and adds scratches to collect rust/corrosion etc...

I spend extra time to towel and brush (tooth brush) some times with TSI 301, works great for removing the Corrosion etc & green stuff....
If I really need to, I will use the Green Kitchen scrub pads (nylon??)...

You do good work, keep it up....



.
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Killerbug
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« Reply #12 on: August 07, 2012, 03:48:01 PM »

True, there are probably more gentle ways to remove corrosion than steel wool, especially on alu. Thanks for the tip Smiley
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kamuwela
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« Reply #13 on: August 07, 2012, 03:56:12 PM »

depending on the grade steel wool can be used on glass , chrome even paint for a mirror finish
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Killerbug
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« Reply #14 on: August 17, 2012, 06:51:39 AM »

depending on the grade steel wool can be used on glass , chrome even paint for a mirror finish

True, I started using steel wool to remove green ir, on the chrome and painted sufaces on the ABU classics.
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They say Catch and Release fishing is a lot like golf.
You don't have to eat the ball to have a good time
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