alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial ideas to take a broken screw out from a trinidad handle
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
January 23, 2022, 08:44:17 PM *
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Author Topic: ideas to take a broken screw out from a trinidad handle  (Read 865 times)
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steelfish
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« Reply #15 on: October 21, 2021, 05:53:43 PM »

thanks for all the ideas, I will try to take that screw out in few days.

this reel also had the small bearing that go under the shaft coming out in pieces when I took the shaft out from the Set-Plate, and as sometimes happens part of the bearing (the rail) was stuck almost bonded by the corrosion to the the cup/base of the set plate which is aluminium, I had to reduce the thickness of the bearing rail with a stone bit with the dremel until was thin enough to be forced out by a flat screwdriver, the rail came out in pieces but I had it completely removed, then a bit of superficial polishing with the stone bit on the bearing cup and worked perfect, the 6x10x3 bearing fit snug on the place BUT seems that the reel was used with that bearing toasted because now the hole where the shaft rear end fits has a lot of play or erosion (on the other side of the bearing retainer cup) just where the shaft meets the bearing, the shaft base is 6mm and the hole now is 7.2mm  Undecided

some people just dont know when to stop using a reel with broken parts  Angry Angry


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The Baja Guy
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« Reply #16 on: October 21, 2021, 05:59:43 PM »

Those bearings in that sump under the gear sleeve rot away pretty easily since water can't really drain from there.  It'd be better to have a bushing rather than a bearing but Shimano is all about smoothness rather than strength and reliability.
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« Reply #17 on: October 21, 2021, 06:04:39 PM »

Those bearings in that sump under the gear sleeve rot away pretty easily since water can't really drain from there.  It'd be better to have a bushing rather than a bearing but Shimano is all about smoothness rather than strength and reliability.

Im actually getting a bushing to try the reel with it instead of a bearing specially after pointing out the problem of the "play" the sleeve rear will have with the bearing eroded cup hole
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« Reply #18 on: November 19, 2021, 06:54:25 PM »

as always all your ideas worked really good, Im not a Handyman hence Im not that good with tools, but with your help in my years in this community I have went through some jobs that normally would've asked someone to do it for me, like this one.. but not this time.

I heated the handle with a heatgun until was pretty hot, then when it was still warm but not too hot I took the dremel with a carbide fine-tip grinding bit and did a small tiny cut in the middle of the screw from the backside of the handle as guide for the drill bit to bite, for my luck it was easier than I expected to be, the grinding bit is really effective with those aggressive teeth and did a good deep guide-hole on the screw without biting the threads on the handle, then since the drill bit diameter was smaller than the diameter of hole of the screw and had a good guide it was a matter to keep the drill steady and check when the drill bit tip appeared by the other side of the handle, the rests of the small screw felt apart with the help of a metal needle dentist tool, it might look like an easy job for someone but Im happy with the result, the handle has a ugly corroded hole but still usable and the 2nd hole is in pretty good condition, so since the screw extracting job was a success I will use the handle as is for some time Grin

now I could install a new SS hex screw that fit like a glove on the Shimano handle lock plate


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The Baja Guy
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« Reply #19 on: November 19, 2021, 07:11:21 PM »

Or you can leave it alone and drill a new hole on the opposite side if you have a tap.
All of the above may work and if not I have usually used Nelz's suggestion.   Replace the locking nut to use as guide to position the hole precisely.
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« Reply #20 on: November 19, 2021, 07:26:29 PM »

Or you can leave it alone and drill a new hole on the opposite side if you have a tap.
All of the above may work and if not I have usually used Nelz's suggestion.   Replace the locking nut to use as guide to position the hole precisely.

that was an option too, but the aluminium shimano use on their handles is kind of brittle or "dusty", shimano alum handles corrode faster and uglier than other similar handles of Penn, daiwa, etc, or aftermarket ones so, I dont know if taping a new screw hole is a good idea because I dont think the new threads will last too long having naked aluminium without any "special" saltwater protection than grease.
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