Zebco Cardinal 6 and 7 spool button removal

[Fishgolfman]

In process of rescuing a badly maintained ZC 7. A few parts easy to replace. Currently frustrated with getting shaft off after soaking spool with penetrating oil. My guess salt and grease. Know it will eventually come off with patience and maybe heat. Have a question on the button on reel spool. Is it removable and how do I do it , I am sure the spring clips fused to shaft....

[Midway Tommy]

The button, chrome ring, spring & washer are removable but it's best to tap them out with the correct size punch from the bottom of the spool after the main shaft has been removed. It's a tricky procedure to pop it out without deforming the chrome ring or breaking the button.

I doubt that the main shaft is frozen to the spring. It's probably corroded inside the spool hole or at the juncture of the shaft, washer and spring. To remove the main shaft from the spool secure the extending portion of the shaft in a vice and while holding the button fully depressed lightly tap on the bottom of the spool. That should release the shaft from the V in the spring. Make sure the button is pushed all the way in when you tap on the bottom of the spool.

[Fishgolfman]

Thanks Tommy. I have been doing what you suggested. Willing to sacrifice the spool as its lost most of paint. To the top button is not accessible from top of spool?

[Midway Tommy]

To the top button is not accessible from top of spool?

No, it's not accessible from the top. The chrome ring is pressed in from the top. There are 4 parts inside the chrome ring, the button, a small coil oil spring for the button, a metal washer and a circular spring with two legs in the center that grip the point of the main shaft.

The photos below are of a Cardinal 4 broken plastic spool but the metal 6 & 7 spools are designed the same & have basically the same parts. First is the circular spring with the V legs grips the shaft, next is the SS metal washer that pushes the circular spring and releases it from the shaft, next is the button and lighter coil spring and last is the pressed in chrome ring. Hopefully this will give you an idea of how the spool is connected to the main shaft and why the button has to be depressed when you tap on the bottom of the spool while securing the extending portion of the main shaft in something like a vice.

[Fishgolfman]

Liquid wrench soaking! A gentle tapping the end of shaft, loosened up. Then vise and tap out holding the button. Finally removed shaft. Rebuffed the ends of shaft. Now perfect. Spool was dirty inside and cleaning with q tip got rid of dirt! Spool lost most of black paint... may repaint spool.. suggestions???

[Midway Tommy]

Liquid wrench soaking! A gentle tapping the end of shaft, loosened up. Then vise and tap out holding the button. Finally removed shaft. Rebuffed the ends of shaft. Now perfect. Spool was dirty inside and cleaning with q tip got rid of dirt! Spool lost most of black paint... may repaint spool.. suggestions???

Good for you, Stephen! I would opt for painting the spool with black epoxy aerosol appliance paint. It's pretty tough. I might even add a clear coat on top of the black epoxy paint to give some added protection.

[Fishgolfman]

Fully assembled and works great. Found a used spool with 20lb mono in it. Replaced bail lock and bail slide as well. Sweet reel. Definitely not new looking (don't think fish care) but clearly never maintained. Old wax grease etc and dirt.  Love the rear drag much finer than front drags. If it stays warm in northeast will take it out. Or Next season or the Keys.

[Midway Tommy]

Love the rear drag much finer than front drags. 

Yes, those rear fulcrum drags reels are much more effective and easier to operate than front drag spinning reels. After purchasing my first Cardinal in 1970, a Cardinal 6  , I quickly realized I would more than likely never seriously fish with a front drag spinning reel again, and I haven't.