cd55a rebuild.

Started by reelman-nz, March 17, 2011, 08:29:42 AM

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hi all, here is my description on putting a cd55a baitfeeder reel back together.sorry about some of the bad photography will do better next time.also thanks Bryan for telling me how to upload these files, i finally figured it out.

1/ this is a cd55a not a cd65a

2/ all the exterior stuff removed

3/ remove rear body cap, little screw on reel stem.this is quite tight fitting and can be a pain to remove first time, gets easier after removing a few times.

4/four main body screws 3 this side 1 other side.

5/ finally inside, this is brand new reel not to much protection in here for my liking, find if these dont get greased a bit more they will corrode especially if get wet and not cleaned straight away.

6/ i thought rather than have to many photos of this coming apart i would strip it completely and just show the order i would put it back is all the parts from inside.

7/ first i like to coat the frame with some yamaha marine grease as frame is dry in this one and most i see.

8/ i start with key no 731 & 732 because having anything else makes it harder to get these parts in.

9/ next i would put in key no 726 and 728

10/ next is right hand drive gear bearing

11/ next in goes key no 705,725 plus screw. sorry forgot to say because i have stripped a huge amount of theses okuma reels i know what screws go where, so may pay to keep parts in groups when removing if this makes sense.

12/ next picture shows the alignment markers on key no 700, and 705 because these reels have elliptical gears these must be lined up.although there is red markings now they will wear of over time. lucky for us okuma has notched key 705 so can always see that one, and on key no 700 there is a little hole on top of drive gear which if you look through it you will see correct tooth to align with the other.add key no 705 then 700 now.

13/Next I put together the rear bait-feeder drag. Below is the order they go in. I find these tend to corrode if not looked after and greased after frequent use. wasn't much in this one at all.

14/ completed rear bait-feeder drag, all these parts have been coated with grease cals for the drag washers .these parts are usually the first place to corrode as they never have much if any corrosion protection.i also add key no 202 plus screw now.

15/next i add key no 800, 800-1 plus screw, it makes it easier to do this for the next step.

16/ next goes on one way bearing, i use corrosion x on this as grease is to thick and will lock little pins in place and make it fail.

17/ next i add this tiny little  spring key no 407, dont drop it they bounce away and are very difficult to find.i just leave this hanging until a bit further down.

18/ next in goes  key no 702 plus one way bearing insert, try not to grease on bearing.

18/ Next goes key no 105-1, bearing, 105 then screws.I put grease in before seating bearing then put some on outside. Also spring should be attached now if you haven't done already, is easier now before bearing plate goes on.

19/ little spring attached where it should go do this before putting hold plate on.

20/ Next I put through the main shaft key no 718, plus 708 oscillating slider and 709 c retainer. Below is photo of how oscillating slider should be facing for c retainer to clip on

21/ Next the left-hand side bearing with washers. Order is very thin ones first then the thicker washer.

22/ Next is key no 407-1, 729, and screw. Put the spring on the clutch slider first then attach to body I like to make sure this is locked in behind the bit that kicks it on top of drive gear.

23/ Next add key no 801 anti re lever spring.

24/ Now add side plate and body screws sorry missing a photo here.. Then add the rear body cover as well as key no 727 and screw plus handle and handle screw and cap.i haven't shown a photo but i have greased handle on its moving parts .

25/ reel done

26/ Next lot of photos are of the rotor, bail assy  pretty straight forward on this particular model .

A nice bit of grease then back together. Keep this part clean as line roller will seize if not looked after.will pay to do this before first use.

These parts tend to rust if not looked after so pays to keep this cleaned and greased.

27/ rotor can go back on now.

28/ now for spool assy these are a dual force drag, pretty basic only has felt washers in this model. these i like to strip right down, give the washers some cals grease and reassemble, also i coat the alloy with yamaha grease.

29/ spool completely stripped.

30/ drag knob, i find the clickers go in these after a while, this does not affect the drag though just dont have clicking noise. i like to strip and coat with grease.

31/ done reel all back together again.

finally done, this is my first go at stripping a reel as a tutorial, i  hope this has been helpful to anyone wanting to strip this type of reel.i have access to varous model okuma reels like i said i like to do spinning reels so if there is anything else someone wants to see just send your request and if we have it in stock i will strip for all to see. we do not have all models though. thanks jase- reelman-nz


so much for the "no spin" zone!  excellent post. it reminds me why avoid spinners.  thanks!  alan
send me an email at for questions!


Real nice........ I think I'm kind a like Alan. It would take me a week and a 30 day supply of valium with that many parts............

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain


Nice work m8! some of the parts look similar to the salina.Where in nz are ya?

Bryan Young

Very nice Reelman-nz. 

If you ever want to upgrade the drags in the spool, to carbon fiber, here are the washer.

Three #6-309 HT-100
24 X 51 mm (Custom Cut from TLD15 20 X 55 X 1.08 mm or Penn's HT-100  (#6-25) hex 22.9 X 54.3 X 1.3 mm)
for under the spool between the spool and drag plate

:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D


The salina drags look the same, do you need to grease these with cals?

Bryan Young

Quote from: mokomoa on April 13, 2011, 12:24:04 PM
The salina drags look the same, do you need to grease these with cals?
Yes, I would grease them with Cal's or Shimano Drag Grease.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D


hey, does anyone know what happed to reelman-nz?  it looks like he closed his account. 
send me an email at for questions!


Quote from: alantani on April 28, 2012, 02:59:09 AM
hey, does anyone know what happed to reelman-nz?  it looks like he closed his account. 
Too bad reelman-nz is no longer with us.  I've encountered a problem with my Okuma ABF 50, may have solved it, at least temporarily.

This reel is prone to go into free-line mode at any time without engaging the free-line switch.  Of course when this happens it's like it's in neutral, certainly not fishable.

This is the only baitfeeder reel I have ever serviced.  I don't see anything out of place, all springs are functioning and everything looks ok, then again, I don't really know what it's supposed to look like.

Anyway, all is working ok now, but that doesn't mean it will be tomorrow.

Is anyone on here familiar with servicing the baitfeeder parts? I have the schematic.