506HS project questions

[JasonGotaProblem]

I have a 506HS due to arrive today or tomorrow. It really seems like the perfect reel, after a few minor mods.

I've already ordered an old stock penn steel main/pinion set (with the slower gear ratio), and some EZO bearings. I intend to order Bryan's drag kit and a SS sleeve as soon as the reel arrives, and I'm sure a handle is in my near future.

At what point do I need to start considering the other aftermarket parts available? I know it's my reel to do with as I please, and all mods are optional. Supposedly the drag kit will push 25# of drag though I dont think I'll ever test that. But I may go up to 20# as needed.

At what point does a new SS bridge and dogs become a worthwhile addition? Same question for frame and sideplates, etc.

Do I want the fine or coarse thread sleeve if i wanna continue to use the factory star?

I'm thinking 50# braid. Reasonable?

[Keta]

The reel is fishable as is.

A SS gearsleeve, I prefer fine thread, keeps the gear sleeve deformation from happening and in my opinion a must have modification.

Drag washer kits would be the second best mod to start with.

50# braid is is a good choice, I usually use 60#.

If you want to fish it as a 50# reel a solid frame is a must have, a SS double dog bridge is also nice to have for pushing this reel beyond it's original design.  Sideplates are the last thing I would change,  I have several reels with upgraded sideplates but I prefer keeping the original sideplates on my reels.  After market sideates are more ridged and will help if you plan on fishing the reel at or slightly beyond it"'s capabilities.

I personally fish my Jigmasters as 30#,  the mods make them much smoother and ridgid reels.  My favorite modification for Jigmaster reels  is the 501N. 

[Gfish]

How come the switch to slower gears?

[JasonGotaProblem]

How come the switch to slower gears?

Because someone who didn't realize the Steel gears were more desirable sold me the set for $20 
Also more cranking power.

[PacRat]

Here's a weakness in the 505/506 Ted and Bryan pointed out a while back...

" Check out the pro gear section thread now being discussed about increasing drag on a 505&506 and spool shaft flex when Bryan installed a 5 stack. Start by reading page 1.

The spool shaft flex is likely due to the extra long shaft on the 505&506. Bryan says the spool started rubbing at 15#"

-Mike

[PacRat]

Here's some advice from Sal...

"You should be ok getting there at those numbers, but wouldn't stay there long. The 500 is rated at 15# max, your 505/506 has finer teeth therefore lower.
The latest heat treated gears from Alan C. do much better than both reels mentioned, but would give you other things to worry about. if you are installing Alan's gears in your 505/506, I wouldn't push it over 15#
The 500, loaded with all the options available today could be pushed to 20#, some might not agree, but I do believe it could handle it.

Sal"

[PacRat]

And finally, here's something from Bloody Decks...

"I've been using a Penn 505(5-1 ratio) with the 500 gear set(4-1 ratio) for 5 years with no problems so far.
The lower ratio has added a much needed improvement in cranking power.
I've installed a 3 position Penn power handle on it.
Use it for bounce balling and codding with 80lb. spectra.

The 505 gears will not fit the 500 because the diameter of the main gear is too large.
The dia. of the pinion shaft on the spool of the 505 is smaller than the 500, but the pinon flats are of the same thickness.
The spool shaft pinion flats of the 505 are shorter than the 500's which was a concern in regards to strength, but it hasn't been an issue yet.
Be sure to use the pinion gear that has the pressed on reinforcement ring(all come with this these days?)"

I included this because I believe it to be true (I don't have a 505/506). I think I read it here first. It seems like the 500/501 has a larger pinion I.D.  So, while the 500 pinion will fit over a 505 shaft, this 'slop' may allow the pinion to skew enough on the shaft to initiate the stripping process (or at least start jumping or skipping teeth). **This might become an issue if you push it to 20# of drag.

When I googled this I saw a link to Sal's fix for this but the link didn't work anymore.

[steelfish]

I think the Penn 501 and 505/6 might only need the SS sleeve and a Bigger knob or maybe a longer handle with bigger knob than factory.
I dont want to stop you to go to the rabbit hole on this model but with the many mods available you can easily spend 200-300 dlls or more on this reel, it will be pretty and unique and stronger but you are now on grounds of accurate reels, new okuma reels as the Tesoro (I want one), etc. if you are into modify old reels up to the point of changing all parts until building a new reel with brand new parts and be able to re-build your old one with the "spare parts" and a new spool, then go for it.

that said, I had the 501 and also the 506HS, they were some of my 1st narrow reels that I used when I started fishing in saltwater around 15 years ago, I wasnt into modify reels so both were used with original parts and caught tons of local fish even few 15# WSB, both were sold when I started to fish on YT and groupers territory.

[PacRat]

https://alantani.com/index.php?topic=6186.0

[Keta]

I forgot to mention a larger handle and longer arm, Alan's handles are nice and a Penn 24-49 arm is the longest Penn makes that will fit the gearsleve.

[Gfish]

Interesting. Awhile back, for fun, I did some switching around of the gears between these 2 dif. Jiggy's. Don't remember any slop at the pinion/spool shoulder engagement area, which means nothing with my memory. I think if it was me, I'd try it, see how it feels, maybe the slop would enable it to go into gear easier.

506/505 advantages, IMO; 2-support rings on the tail-plate(only 1-on the 500/501); ball bearings over the bushings on the 500/501(I prefer bushings, though); comes stock with an aluminum spool; bar frame insteada the post frame on the 500/501.

500/501 advantages; bigger gear teeth; shorter(stronger?) spool shafts; more part/reel availability.

[Bill B]

Lee (Keta) has given sound advice.  Gear sleeve, drags, handle, frame in that order.  Bill

[JasonGotaProblem]

Guys this is wonderful thank you. In fact exactly what I was hoping for. (another) Dumb question though: do you need to drill out a 505 pinion to fit on a 505, or is there just space in the 505 pinion to begin with? If the 501 shaft is snug in its own pinion but also fits the 506 then the 505 pinion needs to be the same (edit: inner) diameter as the 500 pinion. In my mind that space may be there between pinion and shaft but the shaft is riding on the bearing? I guess I'll open mine up and find out.

[Keta]

Assuming you have a 29l or after market aluminum spool and are not going to change the gears (I like the 500/501 gear ratio for my use) here are some minor corrections.

1. SS fine thread gearsleeve with a 10-505 star
2. Drag washer upgrade
3. Handle and 24-49 handle arm.
4. Frame.
5. Double dog bridge.
6. Metal sideplates.

Some of my modified reels are just gearsleve and drag washers but I have Surfmasters, Jigmasters, 113 and 114 Senators (both high and low speed  and 349 reels in several configurations.  I even have a all metal 349H with 7 metal drag washers, one of my longer handle arms with a AT handle.  Going all out will never be cost effective but the "cool factor" is priceless.  My 501N has a narrow frame, SS double dog frame, Pro Chalenger gears with Versa Drag style drag washers, a Max Out ecintric arm  one of my handle arms with one of the latest run of MAX Out handles BTW The MAX OUT handles are extermly nice.  I put black Penn sideplates on it but will be replacing them with a set of new old stock maroon ones eventualy.

Are they better than my modern reels, not really but they are cooler.  I get a lot of comments when I pull out what looks like a discontinued in 1985 stock 349H when halibut fishing, more when they see it bring up butts.  My sleeper 349H has a 113H gear sleeve  a 7 metal washer  drag and a single lever side plate and a modified SS AR dog.

Go into it knowing it will cost some $ but when you are done you will have a reel few will ever own and it is "yours".

[Keta]

If the pinon gear slides on the shaft but drags take a tiny bit of metal out of the boor of the pinion. If you can get the proper size drill bit or a ream use it but if not carefully file it with a small chainsaw file. I rarely, like never, mess with 505/506 reels so I can not give you a better answer.