alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial tekota 500 LC
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
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Author Topic: tekota 500 LC  (Read 47422 times)
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alantani
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« on: April 25, 2009, 02:30:26 PM »

i've always thought of the shimano tekota series of reels as the blue collar version of the calcutta.  the shifting mechanism of the calcutta was always the problem.  the tekota design addressed that issue very nicely.  here is the schematic

http://fish.shimano.com/media/fishing/techdocs/en/TEK500lc_v1_m56577569830498843.pdf

and here is our reel.  this particular customer wanted to leave the handle stock, so we will be lubing the bearings and replacing the drag washers. 





remove the four left side plate seal screws (key #546).



remove the left side plate (key #543) and cover (key #544) as a unit.  take a moment now to add a light coat of grease to then inside of the cover and the outside of the left side plate.  an old toothbrush works well here. 



remove, clean and lube the idler gear "B" (key #533).



remove the left side plate bearing (key #484).  this bearing measures 4 x 11 x 4mm.



clean this bearing out and lube it with the lube of your choice. 



reinstall the left side plate bearing (key #484) and the idler gear "B" (key #533).



remove, clean, lube and reinstall the idler gear "D" (key #541).



clean off the extra grease from the left spool shaft.



lube the right spool bearing (no key #).  this bearing measures 6 x 12 x 4mm.  go to http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=13.0 for information on servicing this bearing.



we need to clean and lube the levelwind assembly, including the line guide pawl (key #520). 



to remove the pawl cap (key #522), you have to remove the stabilizer bar "B" (key #529).



remove the pawl cap (key #522).



clean and lube the line guide pawl (key #520)



clean the worm shaft (key #530) with carburator cleaner and compressed air, then lube it.



install the line guide pawl (key #520).



install the spacer (key #521).



install the pawl cap (key #522).



install the stabilizer bar "B" (key #529).





install the left side plate (key #543) and cover (key #544).



add a small bead of grease to the screw holes and small amount of grease around the hole. 



install the four left side plate screws (key #546).



now for the right side of the reel.  start by removing the handle nut plate screw (key #128) and handle nut plate (key #261).



remove the 13mm handle nut.  a 7/16ths inch wrench works here as well.



remove the handle assembly (key #504) and the drive shaft shield (key #264) not shown.



remove the star drag (key #357).  there is a click pin (key #295) that is going to shoot out from underneath the star drag.  it will be coming from the "hole" side of the drive shaft (key #515).  point it down and don't worry if you loose it.  it is not critical. 



ok, the star is off and the pin was pointed down.   



there's the pin (key #295).



remove the two drag spring washers (key #358) and star drag washer (key #250).



remove the bearing seal (key #360) and (in this case) the three bearing thrust washers (key #359).



remove the pair of right side plate screws "B" (key #506).



remove the pair of shorter right side plate screws "A" (key #505) and the pair of longer right side plate screws "C" (key #523).



keep everything lined up. 



remove the right side plate (key #507).  several pieces with stay with the side plate when you pull it out.  first, remove the handle bearing (key #487)



remove the roller clutch inner tube (key #489).



take a moment to survey the landscape.



remove the main gear (key #512) entire drag stack.



don't loose track of the drag washer "A" (key #513) hidden underneath.



i've cleaned up the main gear (key #512) and washers (key #'s 509, 510, 511 and 513), then set them out in order.  below are the carbontex washers that are going to replace them. 



slap a thick coat of grease on the new carbontex drag washers.  it is more important to not miss any spots.  don't worry about the excess.  it will just squeeze out the sides. 



check the anti-reverse pawl (key #382).  make sure it is grabbing properly.







rebuild the drag stack.



install the roller clutch inner tube (key #489).



take a moment to brush a light coat of grease inside the right side plate (key #507).



make sure the yoke plate (key #381) is in the "up" position.



push the clutch lever (key #508) forward to the "in gear" position.



put a bead of grease in all the screw holes.



install the right side plate screws "A" (key #505) and "C" (key #523).



install the right side plate screws "B" (key #506).



check the function of the clutch lever (key #508) and make sure the reel goes in and out of freespool. 



pack the handle bearing (key #487) with grease.  this bearing measures 8 x 12 x 3.5mm.





install the bearing seal (key #360).



install the bearing thrust washers (key #359).



install the drag spring washers (key #358) in a "()" configuration, followed by the star drag washer (key #250).



install the click pin (key #295).  the click spring (key #296) should have stayed put during the entire rebuild.



grab a toothpick.



push the click pin (key #295) down as far as it will go and shove a toothpick down into the drive shaft (key #515).  the tooth pick should hold the click pin in place.  just in case it slips, point the click pin off in a direction that won't launch it into never never land.



install the drag star (key #357).



turn the drag star (key #357) down until it clears the shoulders of the drive shaft (key #515).



install the drive shaft shield (key #264). 



install the handle assembly (key #504).



install the handle nut (key #262).



install the handle nut plate (key #261) and add a bead of grease to the screw hole.



install the handle nut plate screw (key #128).



and you're done!



now for a couple of comments.  i really like this reel.  i hate the drag washers and i hate the handle grip, but otherwise i really like the reel.  salt tends to accumulate inside these reels so you need to spread the grease around inside.  shimano's open bearings are more resistant to rust because water does not tend to settle inside of them.  the levelwind mechanism is much more sturdy than the levelwind assembly in the penn gt series.  once you change out the drag washers, change the handle grip and grease everything up, you've got a great reel.  i personally have a full set of penn 320 gt2's, but, if you don't mind the increased price, the shimano tekota is an excellent choice. 

« Last Edit: April 26, 2009, 05:16:12 PM by alantani » Logged

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alantani
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« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2009, 07:12:23 AM »

got a nice response at http://www.thehulltruth.com/sportfishing-forum/221373-shimano-tekota-500-lc-rebuild.html

Quote from: Greencanyon1;2293600

Great thread.  We have a pile of 50W trolling reels that I have rebuilt almost annually for 8 years. The only time I have had to replace parts was when a HOT marlin broke a few screws.  With 2 boats, at some point you get so much gear that something doesn't make it to the cleaning table. I have neglected 2 Tekota 700 reels, and have never opened them. After seeing this thread, I went home and cleaned them. I was very impressed that they were both still working, but very dissappointed in the amount of grease that was put on them from the factory. I really like the reels. If I buy new ones, I will immediately open them and add some grease and corrosionX.  Were do you get the carbontex washers? How much? Is that Shimano drag grease you are putting on them?  Thanks.   

Sorry for the pic quality. It is from a camera phone. This is after 4-5 years of moderate use, with nothing but a shot of fresh water when they get off the boat. I should have my ass kicked. They still work 10 times better than my old Calcutta 700 reels. Those died after 3 years with annual cleaning.






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LndShrk
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« Reply #2 on: June 04, 2013, 02:50:01 PM »

Thank you for this post Alan..

Did both my 500 LC's last night with the carbontex drag washers. All went well.

Only thing I did a little different was ad marine grease inside the plates. I use them in the salt so hopefully that will help with any corrosion.   Love these little reels.
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« Reply #3 on: September 12, 2013, 08:27:43 AM »

Hi Alan, I have 8 of these reels and bought smooth drags for them over the winter time. Im just now got around to putting these into one of the reels just as tester to see how i like it. Now with them being installed, i have a few questions before i go ahead and do the other 7.

Ive noticed 2 things...

1- The the travel (from tight to loose) on the star drag has been shortened compared to factory setting.

2- It seems to have an increased max drag strength ( i feel like i could bury the braid in the spool before the line lets out) , and decreased low drag strength. I used to be able to decrease the drag so much that the reel would pretty much feel like freespool, but not since this install.

Is this stuff normal?

Also, I notice the carbontex drags look different on both sides appearing to have a front and back side. One side is smoother than the other which is a thicker weave. Is there a correct way to put them in? Should the heavy weave face up or down  when installing?
Should i coat both sides of the drag washers with cals, or just one side? Sorry still newish at this.

Great tutorial by the way, I had a fun time with the little spring pin under the star drag!!!!! haha!
I only got stumped once. When you go to separate the handle side plate from the reel I had a black part (part#489) stay on the shaft instead of in the plate nestled inside the roller clutch bearing. At the same time a copper bearing thrust washer fell out from somewhere i hadnt seen!!! Im pretty sure it was part#359, which butts up against part#489. Could you confirm this? I hope its in the right place. Thx Alan.
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kalo
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« Reply #4 on: September 14, 2015, 11:51:42 PM »



install the bearing thrust washers (key #359).




I used this rebuild for my Tekota 600LC.. 

I wanted to note that one of these thrust washers goes in before the bearing I think.

I posted about the ReelX bearing oil slowing down the bearing considerably in another post on lubricants. I sure wasn't expecting that.  They spin pretty well with no lube after CRC carb cleaning.    Confused a bit about what to do now. Should I put Real X on the spool gears too?

Thanks very much for sharing your knowledge!


 
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #5 on: September 15, 2015, 05:25:39 AM »

Kalo,

To protect the bearings, I would lubricate them with ReelX, CorrosionX, or any of your favorite anti-corrosion lubricant.  I would also lube the spool gears as well.

Bryan
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
handi2
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« Reply #6 on: September 17, 2015, 02:23:40 PM »

Yesterday I had some Tekota 700's to service. I have the Carbontex kits from Dawn but was looking at the large inner diameter of the drag washer as compared to the metal washer.

The only carbon sheets I had on hand were .1mm and the stock drag washers are around .76. I decided to punch out 3 .1mm drag washers to see if they would work and not cause the last metal washer to rum the inside of the cover. There was no rubbing with one thick washer so I tried two. Still no rubbing. I used 3 .1mm Carbontex drag washers in the main gear with no issues at all. The center hole was punched at 1/2" instead of the stock ones with larger center hole.

The drag was increased greatly because of more surface area with no issues at all.

The size of the punched drag washer is 1/14" OD x 1/2" ID. The punched drag washer is shown on the bottom.



* image.jpg (1433.98 KB, 2592x1936 - viewed 453 times.)
« Last Edit: September 17, 2015, 02:27:19 PM by handi2 » Logged

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« Reply #7 on: February 07, 2017, 03:18:20 PM »

This is what had me puzzled.  I think I scratched a hole in my head trying to figure out how to keep that click-pin down.  Thanks Alan.
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alantani
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« Reply #8 on: February 07, 2017, 03:36:35 PM »

yeah, it's a neat little trick that i picked up from someone somewhere down the line.   Grin
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ErikH
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« Reply #9 on: February 13, 2017, 08:24:04 PM »

Just finished cleaning, greasing, and upgrading the drag on one of my 600LC's. Thank you for the detailed instructions.

One down, two to go!
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« Reply #10 on: November 16, 2017, 12:34:09 PM »

Hi...Have one of these and going to service it with the help of this tutorial...one question is the line counter section...mine has a very sticky button and Im going to have to dissasemble and clean, lube etc....would imagine simple green to clean but what would I use if anything for lube on this ?   Many thanks...
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #11 on: November 16, 2017, 12:44:25 PM »

I have cleaned it out with my ultrasonic cleaner and Dawn dish soap. Then allowed to dry and lubed with TSI 321.
« Last Edit: November 20, 2017, 08:32:38 AM by Bryan Young » Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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« Reply #12 on: November 16, 2017, 02:04:28 PM »

Would reel x be about the same??
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« Reply #13 on: November 20, 2017, 08:04:20 AM »

Did I ask a dumb question about reel x being like tsi321?  Sorry if it is...
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Bryan Young
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« Reply #14 on: November 20, 2017, 08:33:25 AM »

ReelX is perfectly fine. A light oil lube is best.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
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