A 2nd resto mod 1954 Martin Precision 103A spin reel

Started by Woodbilly, Today at 01:56:27 PM

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Woodbilly

Finished up the 2nd resto mod on one of the greenie 1954 Martin Precision 103A reels.

 All went great with no issues.

Went with a yellow paint scheme on this one.

 As always, with any repaint, a bit more tedious than just a stock restore.

I left a bit of old paint on the foot just for posterity and to scratch my initials into. Lol

The custom transparent side plate fits great and bail arm trip functions as it should, every time.

 Im going to fabricate another transparent cover plate for my fourth Martin spin reel.
 I'm leaving her stock green, to complete the color palate.

Great little worm gear reels made in the great ol' USA!

 Peace!
Thousands have lived without love. None without water.

work2fish

Nice!

What process did you use to remove the paint from the body and shine it up? What kind of primer and paint do you use? Do you bake the body to get oils out first?

Woodbilly

Quote from: work2fish on Today at 02:03:35 PMNice!

What process did you use to remove the paint from the body and shine it up? What kind of primer and paint do you use? Do you bake the body to get oils out first?

I use aircraft stripper in a spray can.
It does not remove all finish, but 90% of it.
 The rest had to be removed with foam body sanding pads of different grit.

After finish is removed, all alloy gets a thorough wash down and dry.

Non painted areas taped off, primered with auto primer, one light coat of color, second finish coat of color.
 No clear coat.

All parts then put in dry tent with
heat light to set paint finish.

All alloy shined up with "NevrDull" polish.

All parts cleaned,polished,slot scruff cleared up and rust/oxidation removed.

 All moving/ metal parts lubricated with faucet valve grease and light machine oil everywhere.

 I use faucet valve grease due to the facts that, it's clear, will not dry out, or harden,and has no smell.

 Give all greased parts a full washing of light machine oil and rotate reel vigorously, after which, all excess lubricant wiped from body before closing up.

 This is how I do each and every one of my stripdowns, if a repaint is in order.
 Obviously, a stock restore is much faster and easier, but anytime I have multiple reels of the same make, I always mod one for myself.
 Sorry, not sorry. Lol

 Love what I do and love using only vintage reels for my crappie catching.



 
Thousands have lived without love. None without water.

work2fish

Thanks! I forgot to ask about how you make the transparent side plate. What kind of plastic is it? Do you just cut it?

Woodbilly

Quote from: work2fish on Today at 02:49:08 PMThanks! I forgot to ask about how you make the transparent side plate. What kind of plastic is it? Do you just cut it?

I used 1/16" plexiglass.

Used painters tape to secure the original plate to my plexiglass rectangle.
 For quicker fabrication,line one square edge of cover with square edge of plexiglass stock.
 Two fewer sides to finish, this way.

 Using very sharp utility knife, score around pattern multiple times, including the rounded section.

Using flat grip pliers, gently break off excess from scribed stock, leaving less to remove later.

Leave the two working parts taped together and then using small tool maker hand files, file the plexiglass to size, right up to the edge of original cover.

Oil mounting holes and Using drill at very low speed, slowly, slowly, drill mounting holes.

I used a small dome head split pin rivet to fasten bail arm trip to transparent cover.

This doesn't have to be extra tight,only snug, as the cover plate screw actually hold it secure.
 The rivet pin just acts to hold the arm to cover upon removal, only.
Thousands have lived without love. None without water.