Penn 30 International

[Bill Benrath]

Alan;

After reading your post on making bearing sleeves I made one for my old original 30.  My first question is how do you know if the sleeve is too short (longer is easier to tell)?  I have read your post about cutting the sleeve, here is the sequence I went through:

        1. Measured sleeve and made rough cut.
        2. Took sleeve out and started creeping up on the correct length.
                Original length that was close was 1.400; with this length if I turned reel to the left, the spool quit spinning.
                Took out and trimmed some more.
                Last length where the spool spun freely to the left was 1.385

I forgot to mention the reason for the bearing sleeve was that I had the original asbestos drag washer.    I purchased the second generation drag washer from Penn (part #006A030).  It is not the dura drag. It is HT 100 material and I can send a picture if you'd like. The reason I didn't get the dura drag is that I would of had to purchase the new pinion shaft; combined they are around $80.  The reel is old school and heavy; it has sentimental value because I inherrited it from my Uncle who has passed away.  If I had unlimited resources I would send to to Cal Sheets and have it blueprinted and two speeded and for  $300-$400 I would have a reel that was made in 1978 and still heavy.

I should also say that I use the reel to troll for albacore off the Oregon coast.  Before I took it apart it had plenty of drag (15lbs) for 60lb line which is what I use for tuna.  It had about 25 seconds of freespool.

With the new drag plate I only had about 7-8lbs of drag with the stock bellvilles (#18-30) configured ()().  So after reading your  article I configurated them (()) but something rubbed with that configuration so I ended up ()( flat copper washer for a spacer (), note that I added one 18-30 belleville.  This configuration got me back to close to the original height of the bellvilles which was .220
Now I have about 15lbs of drag but only 7-8 seconds of freespool.  Do you think I shoud try cutting the bearing sleeve a little more? 

Thanks for the help

Bill Benrath                     

[alantani]

bill, you can tell right away if the bearing sleeve is way too long because the bearings slide back and forth in the spool.  it will still spin just fine.  you can trim it down until it is just a few thousanths on the long side.  that way the spool will not "slide to the right" when you tip the reel over that direction. 

there is also an easy way to check to see if the bearing sleeve is too short.  assemble the spool, up to the return spring that goes between the right side bearing and the drag plate.  spin the spool and push on the spring.  if the spool slows down noticeably, then the bearing sleeve is not working and you'll have to start over again. 

[Bill Benrath]

Thanks for the reply.

My bearings are a definite tight fit.  One side will almost not come out.  What I do is take the 'Penn wrench bearing puller tool' and put it in a vise and push the bearing sleeve out of the way.  Then I slide the tool between the bearing sleeve and the bearing and kind of use it like a slide hammer.  One bearing comes out that way the other has to be driven out which isn't bad once you get one bearing out.

To get the bearing back in I use the pinion shaft to drive it in.

If the bearing sleeve is short enough to be pushed out of the way as I described, does it mean that it is too short?

Also what do you think caused my freespool to go away?  If I spin the spool with just the pinion gear shaft and the spring I get about 25 seconds of freespool.  With the reel assembled I only get about 7 seconds.

I know I'm getting closer.

Thanks

Bill

PS Do you know why this window goes below the bottom of the typing window ?

[alantani]

bill, no idea on the software!  be careful about pounding on the bearings.  if the fit is super tight, i'll take a dremmel with a sanding wheel and enlarge the bearing cup just a smidge so that the bearing slids in an out more easily.  you will also have to grease the bearing cup because the anodizing is now gone. 

when the drag washer is off the spool, how long will the spool spin?  that should be your goal.  alan

[Bill Benrath]

Alan;

Thanks again for the prompt reply.

What is the purpose of the bearing sleeve and how does it work on a reel like the Penn International?  The spool bearings can't go anywhere (at least not closer together) because they bottom out in the spool.  Does the bearing sleeve increase the freespool when the drag is buttoned down; I'm not sure about the engineering.

Again, do you think I cut the sleeve too short if when the bearings are seated in the spool and I can go through the i.d. of the bearing and move the sleeve?

I know I effected the bearings some because I had to remove the shields to get them to spin.  I did get about 25 seconds of freespool with the spool out of the reel and the pinion shaft and spring assembled so I assume that they are at least acceptable.  I plan on replacing them when I get this figured out; sounds like the spool needs the dremel treatment.  With the preset knob completely backed off and the reel assembled I only get 8 seconds of freespool.  I haven't been able to get the reel apart since this morning as we were traveling for Thanksgiving.

One last thing; I noticed that after the sleeve was to the final length that it bound some going on the pinion shaft.  It didn't have a burr in it; it might have gotten tweeked when I was trying to get the bearing out.

Hope your Turkey day was happy.

Bill