alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Penn Torque 25N: Service Tutorial and First Look.
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 14, 2019, 11:28:46 PM *
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Author Topic: Penn Torque 25N: Service Tutorial and First Look.  (Read 54286 times)
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #15 on: February 21, 2013, 09:35:43 AM »

As always, excellent tutorial John, thanks for sharing it with us.
That is one nice looking reel and no lever for the drags....my kind of reel Wink. What do you think would be the best solution to stop that corrosion by the gear cover plate, just pack with grease or maybe a rubber seal?
I also noticed that you placed a nice amount of grease on the dogs, shouldn't those be dry, as the fins wok by friction on the ratchet? Undecided
I know if I do that to my spinners, I wouldn't get away with it.
Thanks again John, nice work!
Sal

I found myself in a bit of a catch-22 with those as they require perfectly free movement on their studs (probably Corrosion-x would be better), protection of the "arm" from the "ear springs" as they are dissimilar metals (saw a tiny bit of corrosion there, too small to photograph) and the "grip" of the ratchet gear (best dry). What I tried to accomplish was grease on the outside with the inner part of the ear left dry to grip.

I don't have as much experience as some with this type of dog so any input is welcome and I see if the grease got "old" it might gum them up.

As far as the "trouble spot" goes I think grease should be up to the task as long as that area is not neglected like it was. Unfortunately it simply is a natural spot both for salt to collect as well as a place where dissimilar metals come in contact so regular attention needs to be paid there.

Here's an image of how I put it back together to try and get grease to fill and seal the pits:



thanks Sal, best regards
« Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 11:36:39 AM by johndtuttle » Logged
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« Reply #16 on: February 21, 2013, 09:50:31 AM »

I am curious to know if the holder plate is made from metal or plastic.

If you can specify exactly what part you mean I can try and answer or ask Penn for you. I'm just not sure which plate you are referring to?





Tile is asking if the 'graphite' looking base plate, in above pic, the eccentric jack plate directly nestels against, weather that is metal or plastic? (like the trinidad range)  Wink

Thanks for the tutorial. Great work!
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #17 on: February 21, 2013, 10:51:50 AM »

I am curious to know if the holder plate is made from metal or plastic.

If you can specify exactly what part you mean I can try and answer or ask Penn for you. I'm just not sure which plate you are referring to?

Tile is asking if the 'graphite' looking base plate, in above pic, the eccentric jack plate directly nestels against, weather that is metal or plastic? (like the trinidad range)  Wink

Thanks for the tutorial. Great work!

I just had the reel apart to get the dimensions that Bryan is asking for and gave the inner plate (black one) a little scratch. It came back silver which would suggest anodized aluminum. I tried to take a photo but it just wouldn't come out so great.



Regardless I will ask Penn to comment so as to not mislead.

best regards
« Last Edit: July 22, 2017, 01:24:53 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
johndtuttle
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« Reply #18 on: February 21, 2013, 11:01:23 AM »

Bryan, I checked the AR Bearing and it's sleeve for you.

It is keyed to the shaft internally though it appears round in the images.

The gear sleeve itself is 10mm. The OD of the ARB Sleeve is 12mm. This would correspond to the ID on the ARB. It is hexagonal but has exterior dimensions that are ~18mm to 20mm (kinda tough to be precise due to it's shape).

best
« Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 11:30:22 AM by johndtuttle » Logged
Tile
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« Reply #19 on: February 21, 2013, 11:34:13 AM »

The silver coloration returned by the scratch told me everything - cast and then machined aluminum, which is nice  Smiley .
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Alto Mare
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« Reply #20 on: February 21, 2013, 12:02:40 PM »

Thanks John!
I was thinking about that trouble spot, I know this might sound silly to most, but wouldn't it be better having that cover plate made out of plastic?
Sal
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johndtuttle
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« Reply #21 on: February 21, 2013, 12:14:37 PM »

Thanks John!
I was thinking about that trouble spot, I know this might sound silly to most, but wouldn't it be better having that cover plate made out of plastic?
Sal

It functions as the retainer for the Gear Shaft/Sleeve (essentially as the Bridge in our beloved Senators, though via a different mechanism). Has to be tough. Cheesy.



Other companies put stainless plates there too and mount all kinds of stuff on them (dogs etc).

best, John
« Last Edit: July 22, 2017, 01:25:42 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
Bryan Young
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« Reply #22 on: February 21, 2013, 12:27:30 PM »

Thanks John.

Obviously you've hit a sweet spot with this reel tutorial. That is what it's all about. Sharing.
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Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
Alto Mare
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« Reply #23 on: February 21, 2013, 12:43:59 PM »

Yes John I see what you mean, I was under the impression that there was another cover plate. That's it, no more wine for me today, Roll Eyes too bad I'm going out with a bunch of guys tonight.
Thanks again John.
Sal
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« Reply #24 on: February 21, 2013, 01:11:00 PM »

A beautiful reel, but 2 things I prefer on the International Torques are their stainless gear sleeves and sprung dogs. Just my taste, even if the dogs do bark.

I think the ideal set up are the silent dogs that use a wire spring around the gear shaft to activate the dogs whenever the shaft goes backwards (seen in high end spinning reels and in the Okuma Makaira).

Smiley best
Yes John I agree the silent friction wheel type AR used on Okumas is the ideal. Avet use that now and Banax used it 30 years ago on their SX spin reel.
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« Reply #25 on: February 21, 2013, 07:08:14 PM »

Yes John I see what you mean, I was under the impression that there was another cover plate. That's it, no more wine for me today, Roll Eyes too bad I'm going out with a bunch of guys tonight.
Thanks again John.
Sal
Get some dat fire water no zin zang zong stuff Wink
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Grayson Lanier
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« Reply #26 on: February 21, 2013, 08:39:39 PM »

John, do you feel any movement with the gear sleeve if you move the handle back -and- forth.... not in and out, sideways.

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johndtuttle
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« Reply #27 on: February 21, 2013, 08:48:23 PM »

John, do you feel any movement with the gear sleeve if you move the handle back -and- forth.... not in and out, sideways.

A little bit. It's definitely not as tight as the handle on my Senator that has a brand new, never fished stainless gear sleeve courtesy of Alan Tani. Smiley

I'll have to check in the am to see if it's the handle that has worn or the gear sleeve. Can't get to it tonight.

best
« Last Edit: February 21, 2013, 08:50:22 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
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« Reply #28 on: February 21, 2013, 08:56:44 PM »

Thanks John, I'm studying your wonderful tutorial some more Wink. I have to admit, I'm not crazy about that design of the sleeve and plate:-\
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« Reply #29 on: February 22, 2013, 09:26:56 AM »

Thanks John, I'm studying your wonderful tutorial some more Wink. I have to admit, I'm not crazy about that design of the sleeve and plate:-\

Oh, I get what you are driving at now.  Wink

1. I checked the handle and I had put it on a tad loose as the star was backed off too much. Cranked it down tight and it is every bit as tight as any handle on a brand new stainless gear sleeve. This gear sleeve is confirmed by Penn to be Manganese Bronze.

2. There is ZERO play in the assembly, up or down, or side to side.

Let me explain how it works: I kinda mistakenly referred to the gear cover as being the same as a "bridge" because it really is simply a retaining bracket. A true bridge as we know them in other reels is the mounting plate for the post that the gear sleeve is attached to. Here the Right Side inner plate and the Right Side Assembly house bearings that suspend the Gear Stud (sleeve) between them. The gear cover only prevents movement in and out, the bearings prevent any and all side to side play. There is very little stress on the gear cover in this sense, the bearings bear all the load when cranking.

BTW, Penn confirmed this AM that the Gear Shaft is Manganese Bronze (far harder than brass) and that material is chosen as the gear cover is stainless. Stainless in Stainless is not ideal as the Gear Shaft rotates in contact with it, the slightly softer material will run smoother in the gear cover.

Their opinion on the dogs is that light grease is fine on them but I would tell people to be cautious to not gum them up too much.

best regards
« Last Edit: March 12, 2013, 05:43:49 PM by johndtuttle » Logged
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