alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial penn 209
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 19, 2019, 04:48:23 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: penn 209  (Read 219576 times)
0 Members and 12 Guests are viewing this topic.
alantani
admin
Administrator
Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 17740



« on: December 27, 2009, 05:52:19 PM »

penn 209 rebuild - 12/27/09

this is another post that is long overdue.  here is our reel, a basic, stock penn 209.







we're going to start with the left side plate.  all we have to do be back out each of the left side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 38), one at a time.  



add a bead of grease to each screw or screw hole, but do this one screw at a time.



now back out each of the right side plate screws (key #32 and 38) and set them aside.



at this point, the reels separates multiple pieces.



lightly grease the clamp screws (key #34), then reassemble the rod clamp assembly.





this reel is not going to win any distance casting competitions, so we'll lube the left side bushing (key #40) with corrosion x.



install the spool (key #29L) back into the left side plate assembly (key #27) and set it aside.  



now for the right side plate.  remove the handle lock screw (key #23A).



remove the handle screw (key #23).



removed the handle assembly (key #24).



remove the star drag (key #10).



note the condition of the brass gear sleeve (key #98).  this one is fine.



back out the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).



the bridge assembly (key #3) will drop right out.  carefully set the side plate down and leave all the other parts right where they are.  do not flip the right side plate (key #1) over at this time.



take a moment now to find the dog (key #15) and dog spring (key #14) and place them in a safe place.



now for the bridge assembly (key #3).



here's what it looks like when it's in pieces.  we are going to change out the fiber washer (key #4) for a penn #6-113 drag washer that has been ground down to size.  we are also going to change out the brass gear sleeve (key #98) for an aftermarket stainless steel gear sleeve (mysticparts.com #98-155AT) that has been double drilled for the most precise fit.  



use a pin punch to remove the retaining pin from the stock gear sleeve (key #98).



to install the new stainless steel gear sleeve (mysticparts.com #98-155AT), lube the inside with corrosion x, slide the gear sleeve over the post of the bridge plate, then select the retaining pin hole that gives you the least amount of play without binding.



add a coat of cal's grease to the four carbon fiber drag washers (key #6).



here is the final bridge assembly.  we have to leave out the tension washer (key #8) because the #6-113 drag washer replacing the fiber washer (key #4) under the main gear (key #5) is thicker.  



a full discussion of the rebuild procedure for these side plates is in the 500 jigmaster rebuild post http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=20.0 .  please review this post if the side plate bridge screws have been removed.  for now, let's just say that your side plate is sitting quietly and in one piece, just like this.  



place your left index and middle fingers over the four bridge screws (key #16 and 17).



hold the right side plate assembly (key #1) carefully between your left thumb and ring finger.



now you can flip over the right side plate assembly without fear of the bridge screws falling out.  



lube with pinion gear (key #13) and right side bushing (key #26) with corrosion x.  



slide the bridge assembly (key #3) into place, the rotated it 90 degrees counterclockwise from it's final position as seen here.



install the dog (key #15).



rotate the bridge clockwise (key #3) until it covers half of the bridge screw (key #16).



press down on the bridge plate (key #3) and install the dog spring (key #14) as shown.



with your right index finger, press the dog spring (key #14) into position.



rotate the bridge plate (key #3) clockwise to its final position.  your left ring and index fingers have been covering the bridge screws (key #16 and 17) this entire time.



with a right hand assist, flip the right side plate assembly (key #1) over while holding the bridge assembly (key #3) in place.  



cinch down the four bridge screws (key #'s 16 and 17).



let's check your work so far.  turn the gear sleeve (key #98).  make sure it clicks in the forward direction and does not go backwards.



work the eccentric lever (key #27) and make sure that the pinion gear (key #13) moves in and out.



install the star drag (key #10) and turn it down until the star clears the "shoulders" of the gear sleeve (key #98).  



this is already way more work than the reel is worth, but we're going to install a kolekar handle grip.  to start, we are going to drill out the back of the spindle of the handle grip.



remove the handle arm and toss the old grip.  



drill out the hole just a little larger using a 3/16ths inch drill bit.



bolt on a 2/0 kolekar grip.



install the new handle assembly (key #24).



install the handle screw (key #23), lining up the ridges to install the handle lock screw (key #23A).



install the handle lock screw (key #23A).



now to assemble the reel.  the spool (key #29L) is already in the left side plate (key #27) and frame assembly.  install  the right side plate (key #1) and screw in ONLY one of the right side plate screws.  we're going in just a few threads, and that's all.  it's staying loose.  watch, you'll see why in a minute.  





now wrap a rubber band around the reel at the 3 and 9 o'clock positions.



install the worm (key #42) and line guide assembly (key #'s 46, 47 and 48) as a unit.  



note first the flat faces on the left side of the worm (key #42).



the worm (key #42) will fit properly when the left side is keyed into the worm gear (key #45).



now for the worm shield (key #50).  note that it is asymmetric and that there are tabs on the ends.



install the shield with the "shallow side out."



match up the tabs of the worm shield (key #50) with the holes in the side rings (key #'s 2 and 28).  





everything is all lined up, right?  give the spool a spin just to make sure.  if everything is lined up properly, the spool will spin easily.  



install the remaining right side plate screws (key #'s 32 and 38) and you're ready to adjust the reel.  



ok, your reel is all together and it looks great!  the handle turns easily, the star drag puts plenty of pressure on the drag stack and the drag is smooth.  now we need only adjust the spool tension and the leveler tension.  let's start by backing off the tension on the right side worm bearing (key #43) until it's nice and loose.  



now back the tension off of the left side spool bearing (key #40).



now spin the spool (key #29L) and it should spin freely.



tighten down the left side spool bearing (key #40) until you have zero load and zero freeplay.  the spool should still spin freely.



finally, tighten down the right side worm bearing (key #43) until it also has zero load and zero freeplay.



and you're done!

« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 01:35:09 PM by mizmo67 » Logged

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
alantani
admin
Administrator
Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 17740



« Reply #1 on: December 28, 2009, 09:36:13 AM »

Quote from: bigfost
Another great tutorial Alan.  I love the rubber band trick.  I never have thought of that, and trying to keep everything aligned while reassembling the level wind is the one step that always gives me trouble on my 209.

I just want to know where you get these nice clean reels to work on.  By the time I get around to cleaning mine, they're usually coated with green oxide and half full of sand.   :lol:


one of the reasons that i held off writing this one for so long is that i did not have a good way of getting the damned thing together.  i finally stumbled on to this during the summer. otherwise i needed three hands to get everything to fit.  the rubber band was basically the third hand. 

the big advantage of this reel is that you can do all of the upgrades and fish with this reel for years.  at some point, it actually WILL turn green and get packed with sand.  it's no problem.  hit hard with a water hose to blow out the sand, then soak it overnight in a bucket of vinegar and then hide it in the back of the wife's dishwasher and run a cycle or two.  it will come out sparkling.  your wife will get suspicious when you rush to unload the dishes (for the first time since you were dating), so don't get busted or she will make you pay dearly.  don't forget to spray it down with corrosion x after you sneak it out of the house!  alan
Logged

send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!
jbkel
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3


« Reply #2 on: April 23, 2011, 02:44:59 AM »

Where do I get the drag washers for this reel and pawl for this reel?
thanks
Logged
akfish
Moderator
Member
****
Online Online

Posts: 1077



« Reply #3 on: April 23, 2011, 04:17:39 AM »

You can get everything for this reel at MysticParts.com.

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
« Last Edit: August 04, 2018, 11:34:17 AM by mizmo67 » Logged

Taku Reel Repair
Juneau, Alaska
907.789.2448
BurningHeart
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 26


« Reply #4 on: August 18, 2011, 01:14:24 PM »

Where do I get the drag washers for this reel and pawl for this reel?
thanks


https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-155SP.aspx


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
« Last Edit: July 19, 2018, 06:58:49 AM by mizmo67 » Logged
darcypa
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3

Penn Peer 309


« Reply #5 on: September 09, 2011, 12:28:39 PM »

Would this bee the same Tutorial / instructions for a Penn Peer 309?  My brother let me use his this summer for Lake Trout trolling using leadcore line and I really liked it.  I picked one up on ebay fairly inexpensivly - Seems to be working good but It needs a good cleaning and a few parts.

I have never taken a reel apart before and this tutorial looks detailed enough for me to give it a try.

Darcy
Logged
Tile
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 377


Romania


« Reply #6 on: September 09, 2011, 12:50:24 PM »

The tutorial also applies to the 309 because it is the bigger brother of the 209.
Logged

In solid fiberglass we trust
Alto Mare
Moderator
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 12478


Southeastern Pennsylvania


« Reply #7 on: September 09, 2011, 12:58:13 PM »

Hello Darcy, Welcome aboard! Yes the 209 tutorial would be the same for the 309. These reels have different parts but the layout is the same. Alan's tutorials are nicely detailed.... go for it! You should have no problems working on it,  in case you do we're here to help. Good luck. Sal
Logged

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
Alto Mare
Moderator
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 12478


Southeastern Pennsylvania


« Reply #8 on: September 09, 2011, 01:00:30 PM »

Sorry Tile,we must have been typing at the same time. Sal
Logged

Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.
Norcal Pescador
Redding, CA
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 1517



« Reply #9 on: September 09, 2011, 02:11:41 PM »

Have fun with it and welcome, Darcy.
Logged

Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? Roll Eyes

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD
darcypa
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3

Penn Peer 309


« Reply #10 on: September 09, 2011, 02:44:58 PM »

Thank-you all for the words of encouragement.  I just finished taking the line off.  I suspect that this reel has not been used in the last SEVERAL years and is in need of a reel good cleaning. What should i be getting for oil and grease (i hope i did not open a can of worms with that question)

i have attached a few photos of my fantastic find
https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink
Logged
seaeagle2
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 329



« Reply #11 on: September 09, 2011, 03:52:05 PM »

Watch out this gets addictive, I needed 1 more reel for halibut fishing.  Then I found this site, I ended up using the reels I was using for Halibut, getting one more of those, and using them for salmon after redoing the drags.  Now I have 5 113H's none of which are the way they came from the factory, ranging from swapping spools to narrow frame and spool kits.  The best advice I can give you is to use a white towel in a room with a floor where you can find the little parts like dog springs and bridge screws that get dropped. Also, I put a little blob of grease where the dog spring goes, it helps keep it from flying off into space......
Logged

"One life, don't blow it" Kona Brewing
\"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there\'d be a shortage of fishing poles\" Doug Larson
Bryan Young
Ultimate Upgrades Drags
Administrator
Member
*****
Offline Offline

Posts: 10272


The Reel Whisperer


« Reply #12 on: September 09, 2011, 05:02:15 PM »

Thank-you all for the words of encouragement.  I just finished taking the line off.  I suspect that this reel has not been used in the last SEVERAL years and is in need of a reel good cleaning. What should i be getting for oil and grease (i hope i did not open a can of worms with that question)

i have attached a few photos of my fantastic find
https://picasaweb.google.com/112410907419368613660/PennPeer309?authuser=0&feat=directlink

If you are only going to use this reel to troll for lake trout with leadcore line, I would recommend only CorrosionX.  That is all you really need.

I would recommend that you upgrade the drag to greased HT-100 carbon fiber drag set 3+1 (3 HT-100s in the gear stack and 1 HT-100 under the gear).  The drag grease I would recommend is Cal's.  You can get it in a 1 oz container.  Some other drag grease that other members have used is Shimano or Daiwa drag grease, and Fastlane teflon bicycle grease.  I cannot attest to the other, only mention that others here have used them.

Have fun....AND WELCOME.
Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
darcypa
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 3

Penn Peer 309


« Reply #13 on: September 12, 2011, 09:18:30 AM »

Thank-you Bryan,

I guess two more Items before I embark - Where do I get the HT-100 Kit and I really like the Handle that is shown in this tutorial - When can I get that as well.

Darcy
Logged
redsetta
Moderator
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 2736


Auckland, New Zealand


« Reply #14 on: September 12, 2011, 01:12:38 PM »

G'day from NZ Darcy and welcome.
Handle upgrades from Alan here: http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=158.0
Regarding the HT-100s, you should have 'em in the drag stack already, so it's just a matter of replacing the fiber washer under the main gear with a #6-113 and greasing the lot as per Bryan's post.
Try Dawn at Smooth Drag here (contact details at the bottom of the page): http://alantani.com/index.php?action=post;topic=659.0;num_replies=13.
Or from Scott's, here: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/6-309.aspx
If in need of anything further, here's the main parts link: https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Penn309M.aspx
Good luck, Justin
PS Schematic here: https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/309m.pdf


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"
« Last Edit: July 18, 2018, 10:38:07 AM by mizmo67 » Logged

Fortitudine vincimus - By endurance we conquer
Pages: [1] 2 3 4 5 6 ... 10   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.282 seconds with 17 queries.