Testing some grease

Started by Alto Mare, March 07, 2013, 03:13:53 PM

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Cone

Interesting Sal. I opened a reel a couple of weeks ago and noticed a color change in the Yamaha grease inside. I didn't think anything at the time. I have been mixing it with corrosion x to thin it though.  Bob
"Quemadmoeum gladuis neminem occidit, occidentis telum est." (A sword is never a killer, it is a tool in the killer's hands.)
   -    Lucius Annaeus Seneca, circa 4 BC – 65 AD

bluefish69

I have been using Penn Lube since I started as a reel Dr. I use it straight from the jar except for the Bridge Sleeve. I thin it with Penn Oil. I have been doing pretty good with it so far. Getting good spin so far.
I have not failed.  I just found 10,000 ways that won't work.

Jighead61


Alto Mare

Took some shots after 4 days, I didn't want to lose the pictures so decided to post.
top and bottom are the same type of grease



What got me puzzled is the cup marked Yamaha (top center), the water really got rusty. But if you look at the bottom center, the nail with the same Yamaha grease, the water is clearest. Maybe the ss wire has some to do with it, but the rest should react in the same manner :-\.
Look at the right, the Penn grease is slowly pulling away from the ss wire,leaving the metal exposed.
The red grease  (Valvoline)doesn't look too promising, but not able to determine yet.
From what I've seen, I believe 7 days is plenty for this test, or should I go for 14? What do you guys think.
Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

johndtuttle

#19
O wow...um, actually, the stainless wire might have a lot to do with it...

Dissimilar metals in contact rust much faster than either of the metals alone in a corrosive environment. The difference in the their ability to hold onto their electrons allows the stainless to actively cause the iron to rust faster as it is pulling them off with the salt as the carrier facilitating it. Functionally you have made a 3/4 of a battery :).

note that all of them with the stainless wire in them are rusting faster and even the grease cannot prevent it.

best

Irish Jigger

Quote from: johndtuttle on March 12, 2013, 03:58:58 AM
O wow...um, actually, the stainless wire might have a lot to do with it...

x2

Alto Mare

Decided to complete the test at 7 full days, here are some shots

here I'm showing the water without the nails

the Yamaha cup was the only one with grease on the surface...center cup


here I'm showing the cups after I emptied them, the ones on the right(Penn) are cleaner than the other four

as I mentioned earlier the Yamaha is the only grease that changed color

Here are the nails after they've been cleaned gently with a rag


As you can see, they all did well, no sign of rust at the greased area.
The Penn grease wasn't really pulling away from the wire, the rust that formed at that area was actually on top of the grease.
What I got out of this test is that Penn grease did much better than the other two.
The Penn grease gave a much better protection on the nail that was covered half way, you can see it on the picture.
Also, Penn grease was smoother and brushed on the metal really nice. I like the way it sticks to the metal parts with very little effort .
Both the Yamaha and Valvoline needed to be brushed many more times to cover the parts.
To me Penn performed the best, but if you take cost in consideration, I'm not so sure.
One thing I can tell you is that I will be using Penn on my reels from now on. I will thin it a little with reelx for my spinners.
I hope it's of some interest for some, if 7 days wasn't enough, someone else could take it a little longer.
Enjoy! Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Bryan Young

Sal, thank you for going through all of the trouble for our sake.

This goes to show you that something is better than nothing.  If you don't have access to certain brands of grease, there are many others out there that can get the job done.  Probably the main thing we need to learn is wash your reels and do periodic preventative maintenance, and your reels should have no or very little corrosion.  We just happen to use Yamaha...and I use Yamaha and Evinrude Triple Guard. ;D
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

johndtuttle

Thanks very much for that Sal!

I have used the Penn stuff whenever I do a rebuild on one of their reels (out of respect for Penn) and have been really happy with how it feels going on as it is lighter than straight marine bearing greases. It is more expensive than Yama-lubes on a "per ounce" basis but is more than affordable enough for the guy doing his own reels.

best, John

Alto Mare

Not a problem guys, I didn't mind doing it. John, any thoughts  why the Yamaha grease appeared to the surface in one of the cup and the other cups didn't show any?
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

johndtuttle

#25
Quote from: Alto Mare on March 14, 2013, 11:43:45 PM
Not a problem guys, I didn't mind doing it. John, any thoughts  why the Yamaha grease appeared to the surface in one of the cup and the other cups didn't show any?

So, this is an area outside my training per se (I am a molecular biologist and MD) but I took my required 2 years of Chemistry and year of Physics so I can *guess* lol.

I believe that was the one with the stainless and the nail in it? If so, the accelerated reaction may have had some of the additives in the grease reacting and freeing up some of the oil based substrate that the additives are suspended in. Kinda like the additives precipitate out and leave some oil free to float to the surface, maybe :D.

Not a big deal, the basic idea is that there is a limit to how long and how much salt a fixed amount of grease can deal with and explains why old grease gets hard as part of it has formed solids with the salt and/or some of the oily stuff has probably evaporated away.

These marine greases form a water barrier by simply coating in oily stuff, but a salt barrier is not the same thing at all and you need something to react with the salt. Both get "used up" eventually. These are just temporizing measures that give us a chance to clean them up before salt and water destroy our reel. I think that anyone questioning the modest use of grease in reels should see both how much rust is produced quickly in your test and how immaculate the nails protected by grease remain.

best

saltydog

Thanks Sal for the work you put into this.
Remember...."The soldier above all other people prays for peace, for he
must suffer and bear the deepest wounds and scars of war!" Douglas
MacArthur

Alto Mare

John, I might be better looking but you're smarter than me ;D, that's why I asked for your input.
Thanks for your help, I appreciate it.

Well said Bryan! As you can see, all three did a good job. I'm not pushing one product over another, you guys use what you're comfortable with. With routine maintenance, you should be good with most.

Sal

PS. My wife was asking why there was grease on the dryer :o. I might have to tell her I was trying to fix it ;) ;D
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

Killerbug

Does the Penn grease come with a datasheet?
http://forum.esoxhunt.dk
-----------------------------
They say Catch and Release fishing is a lot like golf.
You don't have to eat the ball to have a good time

Alto Mare

Morten, this is the best I could do.
Sal
http://www.setonresourcecenter.com/msdshazcom/htdocs//MSDS/Retail/P/Penn%20Angler%20PrecisionReelGrease-US.pdf
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.