alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial how to get the best free spool and smooth reeling(conventional reel
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
August 25, 2019, 07:34:42 AM *
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Author Topic: how to get the best free spool and smooth reeling(conventional reel  (Read 23565 times)
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Sudsy
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« Reply #15 on: October 26, 2014, 09:52:29 PM »

Also, polishing any parts that move in contact with each other, using either a buffing wheel or dremel until you have a near mirror finish, makes a larger difference then you would expect.

And on a levelwind Abu, changing the cog in the levelwind assemble to a ball bearing cog is well worth the few dollars.
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wothoyt
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« Reply #16 on: June 06, 2015, 12:52:46 PM »

Sudsy......You can get cheap PURE SILICONE from a hobby shop specializing in R/C trucks and buggies.  They use it for shock absorber control with different viscosity weights.  They have a zero weight, 5,10,20,30.......  costs about 8 buck for 2 ounces.  Super slippery!!
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wothoyt
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« Reply #17 on: June 07, 2015, 08:02:54 PM »

Another thing came to mind when I was doing my Frankenstein 500 with a double ring 259 tail plate.  I blue printed the reel with all kinds of great parts from this site.  Like Sudsy and TTR said, I found polishing every rotating friction point was a great help.  Afterwards I burnished the mating surfaces with a dry lube product called Gear Kote. What I found during my blueprint was I got 30% better freespool time by omitting the spring under the bushing on the tail plate.  I just used blue lock-tight dried on the threads to keep the bushing from backing out.

Any thought about the spring causing a bias load on the threads and introducing a bushing angle to the spool shaft?  I know the spring has flats ground into the mating surfaces but it worked for me.  Give it a try and see.  Then tell me what you found.  Maybe I missed something.

H
« Last Edit: June 07, 2015, 08:43:51 PM by WOTHoyt » Logged
Gfish
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What? Me worry?


« Reply #18 on: September 24, 2016, 09:49:32 AM »

Definitly somethin' to try H. Got to get some locktite(blue?) n' try it. My 500 came with an aftermarket L-side bushing where if you bumped it while casting or handling the reel, it'ed dampen the spool spin dramatically. I can see where that spring(which functions to keep the bushing knob from unscrewing, I think)might push the bushing off-center.
I think relative to the original post question, almost as important as bearing and pinion friction reduction, would be cast control ability of the reel. Magnetic, centrifical, n' whatever else's avalible. In real world fishing situations, I think I can cast further and more accurately with an adjusted(for lure weight) control mechanism, beyond what thumb pressure can do. Without that "backlash worry" I can put some "ummmph" into the forecast and concentrate more on accuracy.
Gfish
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Fishing tackle is an art form and all fish caught on the right tackle are"Gfish"!
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