Trailer question

Started by spes, September 05, 2013, 01:34:52 AM

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spes

Hello,
I know trailers, and brakes are getting of the beaten path for this website,
but I can't help but throw this out there.
My hydraulic surge drum brakes on my trailer need to be done.
I've never done brakes before, but am thinking of giving it a go.
I plan on replacing the entire assembly and drums,,,

My question is,,,
Might it be ok to lightly coat the inside of the assembly (not the pads)
with yamalube,, the same way the interior of our reels get it?


Dominick

Spes I did my own brakes one time but ran into a lot of rusted nuts and bolts.  I would bet that a light coat of grease would alleviate a lot of rust.  Of course you know to keep the pads and drum surface dry.  Dominick
Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

Keta

Convert them to SS disk brakes.
Hi, my name is Lee and I have a fishing gear problem.

I have all of the answers, yup, no, maybe.

A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way.
Mark Twain

JGB

Recently retro fitted drum to kodiac disks so my experience is with Kodiac. If in doubt call Kodiac - they were very helpful.
Recommendations:

Use ss mounting bracket
Use SS caliper and piston assembly (they are rebuild-able)
Stay with coated iron disks (yes they rust but they are less prone to warping and with ss the disk is separate from the hub).
Use only ss backed brake pads.
Use grade 5 or 8 bolts - the grade 8 seem to resist rust better - ss in a bad thing here as they will fatigue and eventually break.
If tandem axle do both axles.
Grease all fasteners and coat with cold galvanize paint.
Use only brake certified silicon greases on rubber parts.

If you buy new Kodiac's the piston boot is built around a SS ring - used to be steel and they would rust. Also the Kodiac brake pads are now SS backed as standard. 2 piece rotor hub assemblies tend to build up rust between the hub and disk that can produce excessive run-out over time. SS is available only as a 2 piece assembly at this time. Maybe other manufactures might have 1 piece rotor hub assemblies.

FYI - you will need to modify the actuator and add a back up solenoid.

Most people have problems with disk caliper locking up the wheel. This is caused by rust build up from rusting steel backing plates or seized piston from the steel ring in the dust boot rusting out.

Hope this help,
Jim N.

borchcl

Very good discussion, and information.
Charlie

seaeagle2

here's another vote for swapping the drums out for disk.  When I pulled off my drums, the insides were a rusty glob....  I went with the Kodiak Dacromate ? coating, the mid priced spread. So far they're holding up. It was pretty easy to do.
"One life, don't blow it" Kona Brewing
\"If people concentrated on the really important things in life, there\'d be a shortage of fishing poles\" Doug Larson

fisher480

I have over ride disc brakes on my trailer. All the calipers and discs are galvanized. When I get home I spray the discs with WD40. The WD40 burns off easily and the discs are 10 years old and perfect. In Australia bronze discs are available and they work very well. It's just that mine are still fine.

The best anti-rust grease is a mixture of lanolin and lanolin grease heated and sprayed on. I love the stuff.

betterlate

I will use that tip on my discs, only on the front axle - trailer has 2.

I wonder if anyone has a suggestion on the surge unit itself. Mine leaks and I have to replace the fluid periodically. I can't seem to locate a rebuild kit & would like to know any suggestions.  8)

David Hall

When I converted mine from drum to disc a few years ago I thought I would save myself some money and not install stainless steel.  I saved 2k doing it all myself.
That was about 6 years ago, I use the trailer very little mostly just haul out service and re launch.
Long story short, the discs are already shot, the calipers, mounts everything, I have to use a cutting wheel to get the lug nuts off.
So this summer I'm rebuilding it again with all stainless parts and going electric over hydraulic. Instead of saving money i get to spend a little more than the cost five years ago for the new discs, calipers, mounts plus the money I already spent.
Lesson learned?
Eh, who can say will have to wait for the next great idea!

RowdyW

#9
Quote from: spes on September 05, 2013, 01:34:52 AM


My question is,,,
Might it be ok to lightly coat the inside of the assembly (not the pads)
with yamalube,, the same way the interior of our reels get it?


Don't use grease on the hardware including lug nuts. Always use Anti Seize. Use Marine grease in the bearings

Ron Jones

Drum brakes are not for beginners, heck they ain't even for experts. Because you are spending money now anyways I agree with everyone else, convert to disks and do regular maintenance on good hardware. No mare trailer brake problems.

As far as the surge unit leaking. You need to be careful in there, some of those have parts under a good bit of pressure. If your unit's main body is a clam shell, and it is what is leaking, you can probably take it apart and figure out a gasket material. Other than that I think you are looking at a new unit. IF your spending money anyway and your system can support it, electric is vary nice.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"