Quick Effective Repairs

Started by Ken_D, September 07, 2013, 04:11:27 PM

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Bryan Young

Thanks for the tip Ken.  May be good to have on an extended fishing trip with some spare guides.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

erikpowell

Quote from: Bryan Young on January 14, 2014, 04:15:16 PM
Thanks for the tip Ken.  May be good to have on an extended fishing trip with some spare guides.

X2 Bryan. Guys, it would be wise to take that cue from Ken & Bryan. Consider Alan, he's the long range spare parts master.
Ready for any reel problem that may arise... so why not be prepared to save your (or a friends)favorite rod when you're out there.
Spare guides wouldn't be a big investment, nor would the 5min epoxy. Great tip !


Bryan Young

And it beats the use of duct tape.   :D
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Ken_D

Quote from: Bryan Young on January 14, 2014, 08:54:13 PM
And it beats the use of duct tape.   :D


Oh, Higher Power, give me strength !!!!   I just did a re-wrap where the sport used duckt tape... he made a strand 1/8 wide, and went for it, about 10 layers. To the size of olives each side of the guide. It took me a very long time to remove the gooey adhesive. Kinda like chewing gum in someone's hair.....But at least he got to keep fishing for the rest of his trip !!

Ron Jones

One more thing to go in the rod bag!
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

coralsea

This is the result of pulling up 17,6LB!!! weight....
Shakespeare tidewater  BTW 60 Sunr 1.83m Medium Heavy (40-130Lb line)...
What i did wrong? I bought this rod 4 or 5 years ago and never used it..Till ..today's test..
Any sugestions how it can be.. repeared?
Thank you...

no pain-no gain

Ken_D

#21
Wow. Unlucky. Any repair at that place on a skookum rod as this, is experimental,, could fail on the first bottom snag, or fish.  The fastest and cheapest way is to install a re-enforced metal ferrule. Measure the blank in both inch and metric....ferrules could be sold in millimeters, or 64's, depending on the supplier.  Today's digital calipers have a dual setting, and can be had for under 10.00 shipped, from the eeb, eh? Invaluable for all phases of rodwork.     The O'Quinn link from the FAOL appears to apply to light duty projects, and may not apply to yours, but it's good info all the same. Unsure if you could find suitable donor bits, which is why I suggested you use a ferrule. Easy peasy lemon squeezy.

http://tinyurl.com/nw4xn2u
http://www.mudhole.com/Rod-Building/Ferrules
http://flyanglersonline.com/features/rodrepair/index.php

coralsea

Thank you a lot for your information, Ken_D!
no pain-no gain

Ron Jones

The only repair I can see for that is a removal of all components and re install on a new blank. If you aren't a wrapper then a new rod would probably be cheaper, but you could end up with a nice rod.
Ron
Ronald Jones
To those who have gone to sea and returned and to those who have gone to sea and will never return
"

coralsea

#24
Ok, got it...
My next question to  ALL is simple-how i can be sure, that my  new rod with the line test up to 100LB would easily hold 17lb weight?
p.s i have casting rod  2.10m (6.8' ) 100-400gr. bait test and line test 30LB... It holds 3,31LB weight...But if i add more weight it might be broken.and the weight would be far away from 30 LB..
Thanks..
no pain-no gain

coralsea

Looking for a possible replacement..
Penn Overseas Pro 212 (2,10m., 50lb)-will it fit for a fish with the weight 22LB?
no pain-no gain

Norcal Pescador

Quote from: Bryan Young on January 14, 2014, 04:15:16 PM
Thanks for the tip Ken.  May be good to have on an extended fishing trip with some spare guides.

My portable repair kit (12" long tool box) has reel and rod fixit stuff. The rod fixings are some 5-minute epoxy, 2-hour epoxy, A and D thread,a fly-tying bobbin, spare guides and tiptops, JB Weld and some other goodies.

My brother-in-law was setting out for a trip when he noticed one of his s/s guide rings had a broken weld on one side and barely connected on the other. JB Weld to the rescue! I mixed up some JB Weld, repaired his guide and let it sit overnight. Can't tell it's there (cuz it's gray) and the guide is strong as an ox.  8)
Rob

Measure once, cut twice. Or is it the other way around? ::)

"A good man knows his limits." - Inspector Harry Callahan, SFPD

Dominick

Leave the gun.  Take the cannolis.

There are two things I don't like about fishing.  Getting up early in the morning and boats.  The rest of it is fun.

tristan

One advantage I've noticed to using "Color Preserver" under the epoxy is if you ever need to repair that spot again, it makes removing the epoxy easier and potentially less damaging to the rod.

I just 'repaired' a rod with 5 out of 6 guides that had rusted out; every one pulled up the rod blank finish when removing the epoxy and thread.      This required filling with 5 minute epoxy and sanding, then a re-finish to make the rod look right, before putting the new set of guides on.

If it had the color preserver under the epoxy, I don't think it would have lifted the finish the way it did.

Cuttyhunker

#29
This is I know an older thread, but in the past few seasons for quickie guide fix-it jobs after the wrap I've used MinWax latex poly. It dries in a few minutes so in a half hour 4 to 6 coats are possible.  It's milky and weird looking out of the can but dries clear.  It's a retro look as you can see the threads when it's done.  So far on my tackle patched this way no fails.  
At sea I've done quickie re-wraps with a light nylon twine starting with a clove hitch and continuing with more hitches passing the line under itself cinching up each hitch tightly until the foot is covered.  I like to leave about a quarter inch tag in each end that I'll set on fire with a BIC, smooshing it out with the metal tip as the flame reaches the wrap to lock it. The stretch of the light nylon binds it tightly if you cinch it hard on each hitch.  Works on old split metal reel seats too.
Doomed from childhood