alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial 320gti/320gt2/321gti
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
October 14, 2019, 11:39:49 PM *
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Author Topic: 320gti/320gt2/321gti  (Read 92169 times)
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steelfish
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« Reply #60 on: February 13, 2015, 05:35:38 PM »

that awesome, thanks for pointing that out, that gives me also another reason to dont take that 3/0 from my friend and let it for another guy that will use it more than me, if I ever want a small old school penn for casting purposes, I'd better go with a modded up jigmaster instead of a bulky 3/0.

I really more into newer reels for casting the iron or jigs all day, tho.

PS: I used to have a 500L and love it, I just got blinded by the bling and specs of all alloy little tanks and sold it.
I really cant afford to have more than 5 reels (my wife forced me to put this last sentence)
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« Reply #61 on: February 13, 2015, 06:02:16 PM »

You know, they log in to see what we're up to.
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George4741
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« Reply #62 on: February 13, 2015, 07:18:35 PM »

This series of reels also have graphite (aka plastic) frames.  Elsewhere on this forum we've seen graphite frames fail at about 20 lbs drag.  Some of the culprits were Shimano TLDs.  That is reason enough for me to keep the drag settings quite a bit less than than 20 lbs. 
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viurem lliures o morirem
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« Reply #63 on: February 17, 2015, 05:10:53 PM »

So I stripped down a 320 today, put in new drags, greased everything and followed the tutorial. Everything seems to be working correctly, however, the handle is a little harder to turn then it should be. Any suggestions to correct this?
Your drag stack may be too high and hitting the sideplate.  That is the only other thing I can think of why the handle is binding.

Finally got a chance to take it apart, and put it back together with the same problem. Took it apart again and removed the pen ht-100 carbon fiber washer that I added as an upgrade. Put it back together w the original washer. Now it's working fine.
So most likely, I fixed the problem without my knowledge of doing it or is this something that can occur with the ht-100? What's the benefit to that washer anyway?
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alantani
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« Reply #64 on: February 18, 2015, 03:02:41 PM »

too much overall height.  maybe the wave washer had to come out.  not sure.  glad you at least got it working.  it will be fine as is.  now go catch something with it!
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garking84
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« Reply #65 on: March 29, 2015, 05:34:11 PM »

I need a bearing for my 330 gti.  Does anyone know where I could get one?  I need it to have removable shields for cleaning purposes.  Oh and I need the one that goes on the bridge plate.
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« Reply #66 on: April 07, 2015, 04:49:33 PM »

""" the teeth on the main and pinion gears of the penn 113h (right side) are much larger than the teeth of the main and pinion gears of the penn 320 gti (left side).  the smaller teeth of the 320 main gear will shred much easily than the heaver teeth of the 113h main gear. ""




ok, this might be a dumb question but.. since the drag washers are the same size and diameter, I can only imagine the main gear are same size too.
and since 113h main drag and pinion are more robust than the ones on the 320gti, have anyone tried to install some 113h gears on the smaller sibling?

it would be a nice new breed of 320gt, stronger and more torquier.. I will be looking for some 4/0 113h old reel on the flea markets to try out, unless Alan or other reel guru already tried that with no luck


Conversely it wasn't difficult to slightly mill down he spiggot on the 113H spool to accept the GTi gears as it really only locates both the spool in the bearing and the gear to the spool. Popped a small sleeve in the bearing to accept the smaller dia shaft.

Works a treat and am yet to see any real damage after a couple of years of use. The other option was to ream/drill the gear but also thought that might court trouble in gear strength.

Ooops, cat is out of the bag...... Wink
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Ron Jones
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« Reply #67 on: April 08, 2015, 08:20:37 PM »

That would give you a 5:1 gear ratio on a 4/0! I would be cautious with drag numbers due to the larger spool diameter but otherwise Holy Moly the retrieve ratio!
Cool stuff.
Ron
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Ronald Jones
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steelfish
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« Reply #68 on: June 25, 2015, 03:02:25 PM »



where to find the upgraded spool tension control cap (key #26B).  "the flare on top is large enough to insure that the cap will not fall off.  quite a few of these have.  remove the old cap and install the new one."


on scotts the carry to small one, and I would like to get the one with the long flares.
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Ruffy
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« Reply #69 on: July 12, 2015, 12:57:32 PM »

Hi everyone, I bought the cap 26B but didn't buy new shims 40C and 40D. I've dug the old ones out of the old cap however they aren't enough, I can wind the cap down as far as it can go without affecting the spool. I was just going to make some more out of a plastic milk carton, I am not paying for a courier on such cheap parts from the Aussie penn parts supplier. Anyone see any issues with this? Is there a better household material I should use?

Cheers,
Andrew
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« Reply #70 on: July 12, 2015, 03:55:13 PM »

i never could get this to work right.  i left out the rubber piece, cranked the cap all the way down, left a whole bunch of play in the spool and called it a day.   Undecided
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Ruffy
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« Reply #71 on: July 13, 2015, 07:21:32 PM »

Hi Alan,
I had a look at the GT2 schematic (attached) and it says you need two of the metal shims (40C) and one rubber one (40D), which my GTi with the old cap did not have. I am guessing this is why we both had the issue with the new cap (26B). With one metal and one rubber thrust washer it is closer to working than I thought it'd be initially (I can get some friction on the spool), I am sure with another plastic dot in between the two it'll be fine.

Cheers,
Andrew

* 320GT2.pdf (337.78 KB - downloaded 151 times.)
« Last Edit: July 13, 2015, 07:22:14 PM by Ruffy » Logged
GeorgeN
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« Reply #72 on: November 20, 2015, 05:18:06 PM »

I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new.  I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core.  Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels.  It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool.  The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess.  I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig.  I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line.  It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order.  These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem?  How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set?  Thanks, George Santee, CA
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« Reply #73 on: November 20, 2015, 05:42:29 PM »

I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new.  I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core.  Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels.  It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool.  The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess.  I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig.  I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line.  It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order.  These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem?  How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set?  Thanks, George Santee, CA

Its probably just wear of the Pawl or Worm or both. They have a finite life span particularly when retrieving continually under load like lead core will produce.
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alantani
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« Reply #74 on: November 20, 2015, 05:47:44 PM »

I have two 320 gti reels that I have owned since new.  I use them for lead core trolling in fresh and salt water and have them both loaded up with dacron backing and 10 colors of 27 lb test lead core.  Recently the line guide began to malfunction on one of the reels.  It is very critical especially with lead core that the line guide never gets out of sync with the line on the spool.  The situation was that I had nine of the ten colors out, hooked a fish, and while retrieving the line the line guide started hanging up on the left side of the spool causing the lead core to start piling up in one place on the left side and then the pawl/worm gear would engage again and I ended up with quite a mess.  I landed the fish, but had to retire the outfit and go to my backup rig.  I took the reel apart, cleaned and inspected the worm gear/pawl, re-lubed, and took the outfit in the garage to reload the line.  It worked for a few revolutions and the problem resurfaced. I suppose replacing the worm gear and pawl are in order.  These reels have been rock solid.........are they prone to this problem?  How can I prevent this from happening once I replaced the worm gear/pawl set?  Thanks, George Santee, CA

it happens ALOT!!!!!  i use a teflon dot that is 0.010 inches thick to shim the pawl and avoid this problem.  if you send me a pm with your address, i will drop a bunch into the mail. 
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