alan tani @ alantani.com fishing reel repair rebuild tutorial Release Reel - SG
Reel Repair by Alan Tani
December 02, 2020, 11:15:18 PM *
Welcome, Guest. Please login or register.

Login with username, password and session length
 
   Home   Help Search Login Register  
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7   Go Down
  Print  
Author Topic: Release Reel - SG  (Read 85353 times)
0 Members and 2 Guests are viewing this topic.
anthony
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 14


« Reply #15 on: February 03, 2014, 09:36:56 AM »

Anthony, the sleeve goes between the two spool bearings. Bryan

Thanks Bryan , appreciate your help
Logged
Bryan Young
Ultimate Upgrades Drags
Administrator
Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 10659


The Reel Whisperer


« Reply #16 on: February 03, 2014, 09:46:21 AM »

Thanks for the report.

Too bad the format it's presented in cuts off much of the photos on the right-jigging back & forth doesn't help at all.
If you are using Windows operating system, when in the post, try hold down the Ctrl key and kit the - (minus) key. 

My views I can see the photos without right jigging back and forth.
Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
jcm_101
Webmaster
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19



WWW
« Reply #17 on: February 03, 2014, 10:05:09 AM »

Great write-up Bryan!  

Just a quick note, the screws all use an M3 hex (except for the rod clamp screws which is an M4,) Not 1/8". It's very close and works but you might risk stripping them.

I can explain a couple of the questions you guys have and if I miss any just ask again.

The reason for using aluminum screws is corrosion issues. When using 2 dissimilar metals you get galvanic corrosion. Using aluminum on aluminum eliminates that. Have you ever seen all that white crud around all your stainless screws? You won't on our reels. I do all the repair work and I have only seen 2 reels with ruined screws and they were both over torqued. They are extremely oversized screws for what they do, so you don't have to be superman to tighten the screws.

The retaining wire is there to keep the gear from sliding out when taking off the crank arm. The reason for that is not to deter people from going inside, but to make sure the pawl doesn't fall out of place if you decide to take off the crank arm. It's not 100% necessary for the reel to work, but its a nice touch that helps with reassembly. You can easily pop the retaining ring out with a pick and you will have full access to the rest of the side case after removing the main gear/shaft.

For a short period of time we were only greasing one side of the drag washer, but all reels are now being shipped with both sides greased with TEF-GEL TG-16 "light". The gears are greased with TG-16 heavy (a thicker pastier grease that doesn't seem to go anywhere) It's not fun to work with because it feels like glue on your hands but it is very effective water deterring grease.

We also now coat our thrust, inboard, and outboard bearings with the TG-16 heavy (thick) grease to help keep saltwater intrusion to a minimum. We don't however pop the seals and pack them tight Wink That would be a manufacturing nightmare!

Thanks again for the write up Bryan,

PS-We don't void a warranty for people that take care of their reel!


Justin Mayer
Innovative Anglers
(Release Reels)
Justin@releasereels.com

« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 10:11:09 AM by jcm_101 » Logged

Justin Mayer
Truth Reels
(804) 453-3095
Justin@truthreels.com
bnz
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 29


« Reply #18 on: February 03, 2014, 11:13:40 AM »

Thanks for chiming in Justin!  One question for you?  Have you guys thought about sleeving the reels at the factory?  I found that sleeving will increase freespool as well as any binding at high drag.  I know on my two reels without the sleeving only at full drag do I get a little binding.  I've got my brass tubing on the way and would be glad to make a few extra for you to try on your reels too.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 11:27:50 AM by bnz » Logged
whalebreath
Member
*
Online Online

Posts: 464



« Reply #19 on: February 03, 2014, 11:26:53 AM »

Thanks for the report.

Too bad the format it's presented in cuts off much of the photos on the right-jigging back & forth doesn't help at all.
If you are using Windows operating system, when in the post, try hold down the Ctrl key and kit the - (minus) key. 

My views I can see the photos without right jigging back and forth.
Yes I can make everything smaller but that's another issue now everything is that much smaller/harder to see I have to actually hit the minus key twice for it all to fit-it's a crappy system.
Logged
Tightlines667
Sensei
Member
***
Offline Offline

Posts: 4502



« Reply #20 on: February 03, 2014, 11:35:40 AM »

I actually like this format better when viewing it from the iPhone ..but maybe that's just me?
Logged

Hope springs eternal
for the consumate fishermen.
jcm_101
Webmaster
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19



WWW
« Reply #21 on: February 03, 2014, 12:01:21 PM »

Thanks for chiming in Justin!  One question for you?  Have you guys thought about sleeving the reels at the factory?  I found that sleeving will increase freespool as well as any binding at high drag.  I know on my two reels without the sleeving only at full drag do I get a little binding.  I've got my brass tubing on the way and would be glad to make a few extra for you to try on your reels too.

We've done it on a reel or two but I haven't paid attention to the binding at high drag. It does help the free-spool quite a bit though. More so when the spool is not in the reel because the thrust spring is not putting any tension on the inboard spool bearing. With the spool out of the reel we've had enough free-spool to get sick of timing it and get bored waiting.

The reels off the shelf now have great free-spool, so its not a big concern, but might be an option in the future.

Let me know if it helps with the binding on your reels.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 12:04:03 PM by jcm_101 » Logged

Justin Mayer
Truth Reels
(804) 453-3095
Justin@truthreels.com
bnz
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 29


« Reply #22 on: February 03, 2014, 12:04:03 PM »

Yeah, the only time I've noticed it is when fighting aj's on a fully locked down drag and they are still pulling line.   Shocked

Smiley
Logged
Bryan Young
Ultimate Upgrades Drags
Administrator
Member
*****
Online Online

Posts: 10659


The Reel Whisperer


« Reply #23 on: February 03, 2014, 01:48:38 PM »

Hi Justin,

Sorry for the late right up.  I know I'm months behind schedule.

Ah, you are using metric size screws...no wonder.  I didn't expect that from a USA made reel.  I think I may need to order some screws from you.

I have been thinking whether a spool sleeve is needed on your reels as well.  The only thing is that it will help keep the bearings fixed in position.  As I recall, the presure plate spring rests on the spool shaft and not on the spool bearing like most reels, and therefore, as you said, there are no thrust pressure on the bearing.  I haven't done a comparsion without it but will do so soon.

Regarding the binding of the spool bearing sleeve.  This is caused if the sleeve does not rest completely on the inner race of the bearing.  In many cases, we cannot get a sleeve that has the same ID as the OD of the spool shaft and the sleeve can wobble.  This will cause the bearing to bind with the sleeve.  For this reason, I had to roll the edge of my sleeve so that it fits the OD of the shaft almost perfectly (close is close enough), and I have not seen any binding issues if you are able to match the ID of the sleeve with the OD of the spool shaft.

Also, any chances for some lower gear ratios in the future?

Thank you for making an awesome USA made reel.  I cannot wait to try it out.

Bryan
Logged

Cheesy I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. Cheesy
jcm_101
Webmaster
Member
****
Offline Offline

Posts: 19



WWW
« Reply #24 on: February 04, 2014, 05:26:51 AM »

I have to admit, I've been kind of antsy to see this. It was worth the wait!

A lower ratio won't be an immediate thing, but it's definitely going to be an option in the future. It would be nice if it was easy to change, but its essentially an entire redesign because of the pawl system we have in it now.

You need to open the gear box and check it out. I think you'll like the pawl design.
« Last Edit: February 04, 2014, 05:29:39 AM by jcm_101 » Logged

Justin Mayer
Truth Reels
(804) 453-3095
Justin@truthreels.com
redpaulhus
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 30


« Reply #25 on: February 05, 2014, 06:37:54 AM »

Great write up !
I'd also love a lower gear - I use my SG for bottom fishing (tautog, seabass, haddock, cod etc) and I find that its alot more work pulling up a double of pollock with my SG than with some of my 4:1 ratio reels.

Also - has anybody else tried cold weather with the sg ?
it seems mine has lube that gets really thick and stiff (I put it in the garage for a few days prior to a november trip and it was too stiff to use - put it back in the house for a day and it was perfect again. Its currently on the shelf for my Nov - March trips )

Thanks for the write up and the feedback from Release.
« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 10:12:01 AM by redpaulhus » Logged
akfish
Moderator
Member
****
Online Online

Posts: 1144



« Reply #26 on: February 05, 2014, 09:07:48 AM »

The Release SG is impressive. Very. And it's made in the US. But I have some issues with it. First, I'm almost insulted that they don't ship with a schematic. That should be mandatory. Second, getting to the ARB bearing is very difficult -- and that means it won't be cleaned and lubricated enough to prevent an (inevitable) failure. I realize that the reels are now shipped with a back up mechanical dog, but if the ARB bearing gets some salt water in it, it's going to sound and feel horrible -- if it doesn't seize completely. Third, I see no reason for using a single screw with locktite to secure the handle. Removing that screw is almost impossible. A handle nut lock could be designed to fit with the aesthetic of the reel. Finally, aluminum screws will reduce corrosion -- but so  will grease. And steel screws are much, much stronger. These are all easily fixable problems, but until they are fixed I won't be fishing Release reels.
Logged

Taku Reel Repair
Juneau, Alaska
907.789.2448
bnz
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 29


« Reply #27 on: February 05, 2014, 09:39:17 AM »

Getting to the AR bearing was no problem for me.  First I placed my removed handle back on the knob to hold the shaft steady so I could use the alan wrench to remove the screw.





Then I popped out the retaining spring as Justin mentioned.




When I pulled the main gear out my AR dog popped off as well.  Here are the two components:





Here it is put back together:





You can see on the back of the main gear it is notched for the AR dog:




Now that the AR dog is greased and reinstalled I pulled out the bearing that sits on top of the AR gear.





The bearing that sits on top of the AR bearing was cleaned and packed with grease.  The AR bearing is pressed into the side frame of the reel and I didn't bother to pull it out.  What I did do was clean everything out real good and lubed this part with some CorrosionX HD.  This is something I do with my spinning reel AR bearings and have had no problems.  Since I use these reels fishing from my kayaks as well, they get serviced more often so I'm not too worried about keeping them clean.

« Last Edit: February 05, 2014, 09:42:29 AM by bnz » Logged
bnz
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 29


« Reply #28 on: February 05, 2014, 09:49:20 AM »

Oh yeah, forgot to add the bearing that sits in the frame outside the AR bearing and under the handle was cleaned and packed with grease also.  Smiley

Logged
bnz
Member
*
Offline Offline

Posts: 29


« Reply #29 on: February 05, 2014, 09:57:22 AM »

Second, getting to the ARB bearing is very difficult -- and that means it won't be cleaned and lubricated enough to prevent an (inevitable) failure. I realize that the reels are now shipped with a back up mechanical dog, but if the ARB bearing gets some salt water in it, it's going to sound and feel horrible -- if it doesn't seize completely.

See above post.


Third, I see no reason for using a single screw with locktite to secure the handle. Removing that screw is almost impossible. A handle nut lock could be designed to fit with the aesthetic of the reel. Finally, aluminum screws will reduce corrosion -- but so  will grease. And steel screws are much, much stronger. These are all easily fixable problems, but until they are fixed I won't be fishing Release reels.

Almost impossible?  Have you tried?   From your comments I would assume you don't even have one to try with.  I had no problems with mine and don't blame Bryan for not taking his off without a replacement since it was partially stripped.

You won't be fishing one?  Well, that is certainly your loss.  I've had no problems with my two.  They are actually fun to use and catch fish due to their weight and strength.

Logged
Pages: 1 [2] 3 4 5 6 7   Go Up
  Print  
 
Jump to:  

Powered by MySQL Powered by PHP Powered by SMF 1.1.21 | SMF © 2015, Simple Machines
Simple Audio Video Embedder
Valid XHTML 1.0! Valid CSS!
Page created in 0.212 seconds with 18 queries.