Ream eva foam

Started by Topshot, February 28, 2014, 10:36:30 PM

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Topshot

Well in working on building my first shark rod and I need advice. The blank is a extreme series seeker. The butt of the blank is rather large in diameter and I can't seem to find a reamer that would work. Is there any other tools I can use to ream out such a large diameter
This is what I'm working with
Many men fish all their lives without ever realizing that it is not the fish they are after.
Michael Baughman

SoCalAngler

Nothing I know of that will remove that much material correctly. You may need to order the EVA with a larger I.D.

Bryan Young

That EVA should stretch around it.  The trick is to use the epoxy as lubricant.  You will need to epoxy about 6" above there the EVA starts to touch the blank.  And...soak the EVA grip in warm water before beginning.  Don't worry, the water should not affect the securement of the EVA to the epoxy and the epoxy to the blank.  Be sure to lightly sand the blank where the grips will lay to rest.  This will help the grip bond to the blank.  Also reem out the eva so it's not a smoother surface as well. 

Hope this helps.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

locknut

#3
You sure will have your work cut out for you. To ream use a long drill bit with course sand paper wrapped around it, a slow spin speed  will remove material. An electric drill is better than a battery  drill.

To fit tight grips I do the following.

Drop the grip over the top of the blank and see how far down it goes. Mark this point. This is how far up the blank epoxy will need to be applied to lube the grip.

Heat the grip in as hot water as you can cope with. This will soften it and make it easier to stretch. While wet pour methylated spirits (Alcohol) inside the grip and rotate to cover the inside. This will thin the epoxy and make it more workable.

Apply epoxy onto the blank as far up as you marked. Pour some more epoxy inside the grip and rotate looking  inside to make sure its all coated.

Before hand make a timber 3"x1" at least 12-16" long pusher with a hole in the middle that will just slide over the diameter of the blank where the grip will end up. Don't make the hole too big as the grip might try and get up the hole when you push

With someone's help coat everything drop the grip over the top of the blank followed by the pusher and with the blank standing up your mate holding the top use the stick to push the grip down the blank. Don't stop just give it heaps. It will compress don't worry just get it down if you stop you may not be able to get it going again as the glue will be pushed out and you will loose the lubrication. Best to wear  disposable gloves and clothes you didn't really like anyway, it gets messy. Make sure you fit the gimbal first and cover with masking tape. Once you have it pushed down you can stretch it back up the blank if needed and work it if you have any bulgy places. You will find that glue is pushed out the ends for some time. Clean up with heaps of alcohol before the glue starts to gel off. I pour it on several rags and rub the grip and blank. Once the glue has gelled off remove the tape from the gimbal and make sure its clean.

The worst that can happen is you get the grip nearly there and cannot push it all the way down or back up. Been there if this happens sacrifice the grip by cutting it off before the glue starts to gel clean up and try again.

The grip will now be much fatter than when you started to sand have your mate hold a belt sander upside down and carefully sand the grip by slowly twisting the blank as you sand. Tape every thing you don't want to sand to protect.

Let us know how it all goes.