Penn Fathom 15 problem...

[Fish-aholic]

Hi guys,

This is a first for me and I'm hoping for some suggestions on how best to approach this issue

Upon removal the head of the handle nut has sheared off. It didn't take much torque so I assuming the person who last buttoned it up got a little heavy handed thus causing metal fatigue:



There is a considerable length of post remaining inside the drive shaft I'm left to work with:





I am limited in skills and tooling so drilling out and re tapping is beyond my capabilities. I have thought about drilling a hole in the center of the post, gluing an alan key inside and use the 90 degree bend in the alan key as leverage to try and screw the post out? It's one idea I have at the moment but I will wait and see what you experts would do in the same situation? 

Steve 

[foakes]

Hi Steve --

No use making it over complicated --

The right approach would be to make a small drill hole in the snapped off center piece -- then just use an easy-out extractor to back it out with a T handle for steady torque and leverage.

Plenty of room to accomplish this -- with no damage to the post/sleeve -- no rethreading should be required.

If you do not want to do this yourself -- just find a small local machine shop or appliance repair shop -- they will likely have the tools, and charge you around 5 bucks, or free?

Then just get another handle nut.

Or send it to someone close to you on this Board -- and they could help out, I am sure.

I can't recall offhand if that is right or left threaded?  Maybe that is why it snapped off?

I think it is right hand on a typical reel. With the crank on the right side -- and left hand with the crank on the left.

Best,

Fred

[Tightlines667]

Does anyone have a source for smaller diameter, quality scew extractors? 

I have been using the larger ones with some sucess, but have not been able to find ones that work on smaller screws (like those holding the ratchet or drag plates).  I usually have to drill them out, sometimes with a slightly larger diameter, and retap.  Any advice here would be appreciated.  Don't mean to threadjack.

[Keta]

A left hand drill bit will sometimes grab the broken screw, if it's a RH thread.



If all else fails a new 98-FTH20LW Main Gear Shaft is only $6.85 and you will need to order a 23-FTH20LW Handel Screw anyway ($4.15).    Grease the threads when you put the new handle screw on.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/98-FTH20LW.aspx


"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

[Fish-aholic]

Thanks for the advice so far. The easy out extractor seems to be the solution I'm favouring. I just need an extractor kit, hopefully a friend may have what I need.

The handle nuts threads are right handed (righty tighty). I've already serviced 3 fathom 15's, but it had to be the last one of the four which had to give me a headache. 

   

[foakes]

Most good hobby shops have mini screw extractors, as do electronics stores like Fry's.

Plenty on the internet also.

No need to spend too much -- just get decent such as Irwin, Kawasaki, etc..

I use a set that were probably very old when I acquired them used 20 years ago -- never broke one yet.

A nearly straight, not very tapered works the best for me on the small screws.  5/64" or smaller.  Anything less than that just gets drilled out and retapped.  Or just stick a smaller diameter screw in the hole you drilled -- after tapping the metal.  Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Best,

Fred

[Tightlines667]

Wow Fred..that was quick.  Straighter tapered extractors seem the way to go on these smaller screws.  Thanks for the advice!

That set you have looks to almost be a collectors item.

While we are on the topic of extractors and taps...

Any advice on how to remove a broken tap from a smaller hole?  I've heard the correct/quslity punch can help to shatter the frabile reminants of  broken tap, but have had some trouble here..ocassiinally mind you.

I should have maybe started a different thread.

[Dominick]

Wow Fred..that was quick.  Staighter tapered extractors seem the way to go on these smaller screws.  Thanks for the advice!

That set you have looks to almost be a collectors item.

While we are on the topic of extractors and taps...

Any advice on how to remove a broken tap from a smaller hole?  I've heard the correct/quslity punch can help to shatter the frabile reminants of  broken tap, but have had some trouble here..ocassiinally mind you.

I should have maybe started a different thread.

John lightly tap some headless nails down each side of the tap and remove by turning it out with a small set of pliers or vice grips.  Dominick

[Tightlines667]

Wow Fred..that was quick.  Staighter tapered extractors seem the way to go on these smaller screws.  Thanks for the advice!

That set you have looks to almost be a collectors item.

While we are on the topic of extractors and taps...

Any advice on how to remove a broken tap from a smaller hole?  I've heard the correct/quslity punch can help to shatter the frabile reminants of  broken tap, but have had some trouble here..ocassiinally mind you.

I should have maybe started a different thread.

John lightly tap some headless nails down each side of the tap and remove by turning it out with a small set of pliers or vice grips.  Dominick

Good advice for extracting most typical broken taps, but I don't think I can find pins small/strong enough for a much smaller tap...maybe just stuck drilling it out.  I was just thinking the correct punch might aid in the process.  I really need a drill press for drilling out hardened material from surrounding soft materials.  I feel like I am pretty good with hand tools, but the bit really wants to wander in these instances. 

John

[johndtuttle]

My sense of things is that Penn would be happy to take care of this under warranty. 

[Alto Mare]

Most good hobby shops have mini screw extractors, as do electronics stores like Fry's.

Plenty on the internet also.

No need to spend too much -- just get decent such as Irwin, Kawasaki, etc..

I use a set that were probably very old when I acquired them used 20 years ago -- never broke one yet.

A nearly straight, not very tapered works the best for me on the small screws.  5/64" or smaller.  Anything less than that just gets drilled out and retapped.  Or just stick a smaller diameter screw in the hole you drilled -- after tapping the metal.  Lots of ways to skin a cat.

Best,

Fred

Fred, when I do come over to visit, I'm going to need a couple of days, one day will not be enough to see all of your cool stuff.

[foakes]

Looking forward to that, Sal -- got a couple more sets like this -- along with some imported ones.

This came from an older gentleman who repaired reels and tied flies since 1940.

Bought all of his shop inventory and tools from the family many years ago.

You should see my collection of English and Early American carving tools from around 1900.

Plus a good set of nearly every type of metal engraving tool.

Best,

Fred

[handi2]

A left hand drill bit will sometimes grab the broken screw, if it's a RH thread.



If all else fails a new 98-FTH20LW Main Gear Shaft is only $6.85 and you will need to order a 23-FTH20LW Handel Screw anyway ($4.15).    Grease the threads when you put the new handle screw on.

https://www.mysticparts.com/PennParts/Parts/98-FTH20LW.aspx

That's what I have used on many of them that break like this. Drill a hole with a regular but then use the LH bit to screw it right out. It's not tight b/c it's straight threads.

[Alto Mare]

I just remembered I had to deal with a similar problem, here is what worked for me:
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=8753.msg77697#msg77697

Sal

[Fish-aholic]

Thanks for the added contributions. The bolts post is still stuck in place as I haven't managed to get the correct tools to get the job done. I will update this thread when possible. Thanks again!