ABU/Zebco Cardinal 4 Experience

[Midway Tommy]

I've got bevy of ABU & Zebco Cardinals relaxing in a box and begging me to take them apart, clean them up and get them out into the display case. I finally decided to take the plunge so I figured I might as well document the process for those, that from time to time, may need a little help or advise. Here's a couple of photos showing the reel before I started disassembly, it's pretty dirty but not as bad as some I've run into:




From this point the first step is to remove the 2 e-clips from the connecting link (oscillation arm), one on the main gear and the other at the back of the main shaft. Once the connecting link is removed pull the main shaft out the front and remove the main gear. Next would be to remove the rotor cup from the body. Everything else from that point on pretty much falls into place and would just be the reverse of the reassemble steps shown later.

All the internal parts were wiped off and soaked in a jar with lacquer thinner, except the bearing, for a couple of days. The bearing soaked for a couple of hours and was removed. Both sides were oiled so that the oil could soak into the ball and race area. It did not need to be re-greased. The plastics and painted body parts were cleaned with Original White Goop (NO PUMICE), then washed in warm water & Dawn and thoroughly dried.



Here's the parts, all 60 of them, cleaned and ready for reassembly.

My first step, before my fingers get all greasy, is to assemble the rotor, bail, etc.



Lightly grease in the screw hole. Add some on the nylon trip bar and install the bail stopper (trip lever).



No need to fight or struggle with bail spring installation. Thread the bail plate all the way onto the bail and then back it off 1/2 to one full turn so that it lays parallel with the bail. The bail springs are wound opposite and this photo shows them relative to their correct side. They must be installed on the correct side or they will be bent, sprung and difficult, if not impossible, to re-bend or adjust.



Install the spring and bail arm on the roller guide side. Once installed you can pull the bail stopper back to allow the bail arm to rest correctly on it. Install the spring and bail plate/bail on the opposite side. Once installed rotate the bail in the appropriate direction to get tension on the spring and turn the bail 90 degrees.



Have the line roller, teflon bushing, protecting washer and bail nut ready for installation. Check the bail to make sure it lines up perfectly with the hole in the bail arm. Bend or adjust it if needed so that there is no pressure sideways or up and down. Other than gummed up bail springs, misalignment is the single biggest reason why bails don't work properly.



Once the bail is adjusted properly lube and install the teflon bushing, roller guide and protecting washer. Check to see that the bail snaps back with authority and if not adjust accordingly. Set it aside for later installation.

Now on to the body.



First, install the anti-reverse button using the e-clip. Add a little grease on the screw and install the hook (lever) & spring. Lube the screw/lever/spring connection.



Next, assemble the drag stack & mechanism. Notice these came with carbon fiber drag discs. They're laying in the order they go together, from the right to left: click washer/gear, SS washer, carbon washer, SS washer, carbon washer, SS washer, round spring washer and flat bottom spring washer. All washers install on the long side of the click washer. Also, notice the short partition behind and above the anti-reverse lever screw. It's important because the points on the SS washers are to be positioned so that the partition and the body below the recessed area blocks their movement. The recess is for washer clearance. Lightly grease between all washers.



Turn the brake screw into the brake cashing all the way, slip it into the hole and install the brake arm. Don't install the insert support yet. Make sure all the points on the SS washers line up with each other.



Push the brake arm back as far as possible and install the drag stack with the short end into the worm gear/pinion bushing making sure all three SS washer points are in the correct position and the flat side of the rear spring washer is down against body. Push the top of the brake arm forward and install the insert support. Make sure there is sufficient grease there. Tighten the brake cashing just enough so there is slight pressure on the drag stack keeping all washers in their correct position. Now we're ready to install the pinion/worm gear.



Install the o-ring on the pinion gear in the groove just behind the linear anti-reverse teeth. The o-ring reduces anti-reverse click noise. Grease the rear pinion bushing and the pinion/worm gear inside and out and slide it into place through the front of the body.



Grease the bearing cavity and bearing and slide it into place.



Secure the bearing with the split ring retainer. Grease the front edge of the housing and bail trip stud.  



Install the rotor cup using the locking washer and hex nut. Supporting the reel in this picture is an old Casablanca Fan screw driver I filed/converted to fit perfectly into all ABU & Zebco Cardinal bail arms to remove the recessed bail nut rather than using the ABU wrenches that came with these reels.



Grease, lube and install the main gear, not forgetting to install the spring washer between the gear and bushing.



Grease, lube and install the main shaft. Also, don't forget to install the spring washer between the main gear and connecting link (oscillation arm), and the spring washer at the rear of the main shaft in front of the connecting link attachment holder.



Grease, lube and install the connecting link (oscillation arm) onto the main gear and main shaft using e-clips at both locations. Check and lube/oil any areas or connections that may have been omitted and make sure there is adequate grease on the main and pinion gear teeth. I also like to add a drop or two of oil to the main shaft in the pinion gear. Install the side-plate, crank handle and spool, and test everything to make sure all is working properly.

Finis: Wipe it off, spray a little liquid car wax on it and polish it up for a nice shine. It's ready to go catch some of those lunkers!

[Alto Mare]

What an awesome job Tom, thanks for showing us how it's done.
Beautiful reel!

Sal

[Dominick]

Pretty reel.  Dominick

[Bryan Young]

Wow, better than new. Very interesting reel design.

[Tightlines667]

Nice work.

I just recieved my first Cardinal 4 in the mail this weekend.  Great reels.. really my favorite fresh water reel.  I fished with my dad's for years, and I intend to do the same with mine.  I am considering using slightly heavier Titanium aftermarket springs, and trying to track down an aftermarket aluminum spool as well.  My drags and nearby surfaces will get greased with Cal's drag grease.  I may use purple Cal's and Corrosion X throughout so it is cold-weather cabable.

Thanks for sharing!

John

[reelrepair123]

great tutorial tom, reel looks mint, very nice job.  i haven't used my cardinal 3 yet picked it up awhile ago.  the 6 and 7 are great reels also.  the #4  has plenty of backbone for plugging blues or stripers,  take care ,  harryk

[alantani]

tom, you have a pm.  thanks!!!!  alan

[Donnyboat]

Good job tom, thanks for being so inforative, real nice. cheers donnyboat.

[mo65]

   Great tutorial...I need to pick up one of these reels.

[foakes]

Excellent tutorial, Tommy --

Really shows off your skills -- as well as the workings of one of the best spinning reels ever produced by any company.

That drag system is so capable and simple in design -- it just works very well -- and is simple to adjust on the fly.

Thanks for sharing!

Best,

Fred

[handyandy]

wow great job thanks for the tutorial as I've been meaning to go through the cardinal four I have. Recently got a cardinal three for cheap was advertised as a cardinal 4 missing the identifying badge was cheap figured a extra wouldn't hurt get it in the mail it's a cardinal 3. Should have bought a lotto ticket that day I guess. I was wanting to put carbon drags in mine as both the three and four don't appear to have carbon fiber drags and both are kind sticky and jerky. Did yours come with CF drags? If so where does one get new drag disk for these?

[Midway Tommy]

Lucky you on getting a "3"! Last I knew the fish couldn't read and care less what the badge says.  The 3 is a great little UL! All of my Cardinals came with carbon drag washers, although they aren't carbontex. ABU has had carbon drag washers for along time. I'm pretty sure that Smooth Drag has a conversion for them but you may have to file the hole oblong rather than round to work properly on the 4. On the Cardinals the metal washers remain stationary and the carbon turns with the click washer. Although on the 3 the hole is round and the center SS washer has the oblong hole. Make sure the flat side of the thin SS washers rest against the body on the 3 once the stack is together and you insert it. On another note, loosen the drag when you're not going to be using the reel and it's stored. That does wonders for preventing stickiness on the next outing. I reset my drags each time I take my reels out to go fishing.     

[Gfish]

Went through mine too soon. Circa 1970, C. 4 with the domed spool button. Took me 'bout 5 hrs. of some trial n' error re-dos, along with the usual straight-up-easy to do-stuff. I coulda used your tutorial. One tweak I did was glue some rubber on the bail stopper and it's at least quieter, if not gentler on the bail n' stopper. Midway,  do you grease your drag washers like Tightlines mentioned?

Lost the reference, but I think the E-Bay guy with aluminium spools is named Gary Shaw(?), from England. When I got mine(the reel) in the mail, the old plastic spool hada hairline crack in it and probably wasn't far from popin apart.
Gfish

[Midway Tommy]

Went through mine too soon. Circa 1970, C. 4 with the domed spool button. Took me 'bout 5 hrs. of some trial n' error re-dos and straight-up easy to do stuff. I coulda used your tutorial. One tweak I did was glue some rubber on the bail stopper and it's at least quieter, if not gentler on the bail n' stopper. Midway,  do you grease your drag washers like Tightlines mentioned?

Lost the reference card Tightlines, but I think the E-Bay guy with aluminium spools is named Gary Shaw(?), from England. When I got mine(the reel) in the mail, the old plastic spool hada hairline crack in it and probably wasn't far from popin apart.
Gfish

Yes, I lightly grease both sides of all the washers, metal, carbon and click. I haven't switched to Cal's yet, since I have a fairly large supply of Super Lube Synthetic Grease. Super Lube has served me well over the years and was, for many prior to the discovery of Yamaha Blue, the go to reel grease. While some liked Hot Sauce I always thought it was way overpriced. I also add a small drop or two of synthetic oil to the top edges of the stack and work that into the spaces between the washers. It seems, at least to me, to keep them moving well without that jerky hesitation plain grease will initiate and exacerbate.

Another little trick is that sometimes a slight groove starts to get worn into the edge of the bail stopper where the bail arm continually rides. If a groove does develop you can make things smoother and extend the life of the stopper by slightly filing that grooved edge to make it smooth again.   

Les Shaw is the guy from the UK with the alum spools. Also, Cardinal Parts on eBay sells them. Les is also on eBay.     

[handyandy]

tommy thanks for the advice on the drag washers I'll have to get in contact with smooth drag about the conversion. Good to know about the holes being ob-longed on the 4 vs the 3. Thanks for the advice on unloading the drag as well makes since. I was stoked when I got that 3 I could care less about the badge it will still fish great regardless about how it looks. The 4 I have the drag is sticky but the disc look to be in pretty good shape the 3 not so much they are smooshed down and bulging out from the ss washer.