114 hlw solid frame drag and mag questions

Started by alantani, June 10, 2010, 05:28:54 AM

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alantani

cut and pasted with permission.  thanks!

http://www.tx-sharkfishing.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=13210

Quote from: merlin0883Got 2 114 hlw's. Just came across a couple of posts on here. One was about magging reels. But they were 3/0's and 4/0's. Has anyone found a good combination for my reels? How many stacks? Where to put the stacks? How many mags per stack? Oh yea, and exactly what size washers to use? And the same for the magnets. What size, and where to get them? Do you epoxy the washers to the side plate, and do you use any adhesive between the magnets so they don't move if you bang the reel on something?

And for the drag questions. Came across this post:    

http://www.tx-sharkfishing.com/messageboard/viewtopic.php?f=10&t=10279

Seems like I heard somewhere on here that the 6/0's and 9/0's have the same drag capabilities--I know this doesn't necessarily mean they have the same assemblies, though, or if I even remember correctly. Either way, do they? And if so, can I do the same mods by adding the ht-100 washer? And if not, are there any recommendations for this reel that are worth doing?


Quote from: surfThis is how I learned to mag a reel.
First it would be helpfull if you understand what is happening. Do a search on "eddy currents" and you'll find out what's going on and be able to tweak your reel.
I got my magnets from http://www.emovendo.net . You need to use rare earth magnets. I went with a small size (1/8x1/4) so I can do the smaller reels I have - 309, 209, 330 & 320 gti. The metal the spool is made of will determine how many stacks you need, a chrome on brass will need more than an aliuminum one, my understanding is you need atleast 2 to make it work.
Use some Playdo to determine the overall height between sideplate and spool. This will also help in selecting magnet and washer thickness.

Glue the washers on the clicker sideplate, nothing should touch the clicker. The washer size will depend on the room you have. this is a 309 and due to size and shape of the side plate I cut the washers.

The magnets need to alternate polarity, north-south-north etc. The easy way I found is knowing that oppisits attract and like repels, put 1 in place and try to stick the next 1 to it if they repel put that side on the washer. n/s-s/n. Having 3lbs of pull they stay in place very well.
Due to size of magnets and a chrome on brass spool this 309 ended up using 6 stacks

The aluiminum spooled  gti's only took 3 stacks.
The final test I used was to put a dab of grease on the top of the magnet and place the spool on, spin it and see if it touches the grease. You want it as close as possible without touching. The only real test for how many magnets is to put some in and see how well it cast, then add or remove some.
I sure hope this helps! Any questions feel free to ask. I think this is one of the coolest things I've learned in quit awhile.


Quote from: merlin0883So you want the stacks to be as tall as possible without touching, but the number of stacks may vary, depending on your casting results, correct? Also, did you mean that you don't even put a drop of superglue between each magnet in a stack? or between the bottom magnet and the washer? This helped a LOT though. I'm gonna look up the magnets now, after I take apart my reel and get a clearance estimate.


Quote from: surfYes as tall as possible and no glue on magnets. If you use rare earth magnets they won't budge, atleast I've never had one move. Actually their hard to move when you want them to. Be sure and check out eddy currents, it's interesting. Bullet trains use this system for their brakes :shock: .
send me an email at alantani@yahoo.com for questions!

snookcatcher1

I'm tinkering with magging an old Penn.  Really just kind of getting a picture of how to do it right now.  One thing is confusing - does it work on reels with different kinds of metal spools?  Will the chromed brass and aluminum both work?  I read somewhere where some guys glue a magnet(s) to the inside of the spool and also attach magnets on the side plate that is on the same side as the spool magnets.  This is supposed to really get electromagnetic friction going when that spool is spinning.  Can anyone comment?

Bryan Young

There's another posting in this site regarding magging reels, but I cannot seem to find it.  Maybe you will have better luck.
:D I talk with every part I send out and each reel I repair so that they perform at the top of their game. :D

Roger

I've been pretty busy at work the last week or so and I missed this thread. Brian I think this is the article awhile back.


How to Mag a Jigmaster
________________________________________
Below are pretty simple steps on how to mag a Penn Jigmaster 500L. The same principles and techniques hold true for essentially all similar Penn reels such as the Long Beaches, 113's, Surfmasters, Beachmasters, etc. The levelwinds, such as the 109, 209, 309, as well as the Squidder and Penn 350 Leveline require different techniques. An aluminum spool, while not totally essential, will give you the best results. More mags will be required for the chrome plated brass spool, and if you have the maroon bakelite/plastic spool...don't even bother, although it can be done if you add an aluminum disk. Trust me, though...it's not worth the trouble. Just invest $20 - $25 or so bucks for an aluminum spool and go from there. I've even magged a cheap Penn 85 and it's one of my favorites. The aluminum spool for that is pretty hard to find though. Nothing to it, really. Happy Magging!!!

1. First Pic shows the reel...a Penn 500L Jigmaster that has been "Newellized" with Newell Crossbars and reel base.

2. Next is the left (clicker side) endplate removed. Make sure, using lighter fluid, acetone, or other appropriate solvent, to remove ALL grease/oil from the area where the washers will be epoxied.

3. Pic depicting three Lee Valley 3/8" washers and mags. Remove any oil/grease from washers as well.

4. Epoxy washers in place inside the sideplate, leaving sufficient clearance between the spool flange and side of the endplate, as well as clearance between the clicker spring and washers so there is no interference, AND clearance between the washers so these strong magnets don't attract each other.

5. Place the magnets on the washers, alternating the polarity between +/-/+. There is no need to glue/epoxy the magnets onto the washers, as they will stay by themselves. There are three stacks of 1/4 X 1/10 magnets here...two per stack. This will also allow you the flexibility to remove magnets as your casting skills increase, or add as conditions worsen (strong headwinds, etc.).

Reassemble the left sideplate onto the frame, making sure there is sufficient clearance and that the reel operates smoothly. There you have it...ready to fish!!!










Roger

"Twenty years from now you will be more disappointed by the things you didn't do than by the ones you did do. So throw off the bowlines. Sail away from the safe harbor. Catch the trade winds in your sails. Explore. Dream. Discover."   Mark Twain