New to the forum

Controlled Chaos · July 27, 2010, 02:18:39 PM

Hey guys.

My name is Dave and I run a charter fishing company in south florida. I came here b/c I really enjoy rebuilding and repairing reels in my spare time. I am in the process of customizing a set of penn international reels that consist of 2 30S, 2 30SW, 2 50SW, and soon 2 80STW reels. I am planning on having them annodized in natural aluminum or clear. I am having an issue though... My annodizer says he cannot annodize any reel that has stainless steel parts still attached to the aluminum so I am trying to get the remaining parts off of the reel. The one part I am having an issue wuth is likely pressed into place and I was wondering if anyone has had any success in removing it. The part in question is listed on the Mystic Reel Parts schematic below.

https://www.mysticparts.com/Assets/images/pennparts/schematics/50sw.pdf

KEY 98 - bridge bushing. I cannot get it to budge and I wasn't sure if it even would be able to come out.

I will post up some pics in the Penn section this evening. Thanks for any help.

Dave

"Edited as per Moderators to correct Scott's Bait & Tackle over to their new store name Mystic Reel Parts / www.mysticparts.com"

Phinaddict · July 27, 2010, 03:22:34 PM

Hi Dave,
Here is what I do.... cut and place a thin plastic "washer" on the bridge. Find a deep socket from your toolbox and then tap it out with a hammer. After you anodize your reel, you can tap it back into in a similar fashion. If I remember correctly, it has to go in a particular way. Might need to scribe a small reference mark on both the inside of the sideplate and bridge.
Any pitting of the aluminum will not anodize, so preping the surface after removing the old gold anodizing is key!
Post some pics when your'e done!

slip tip · July 27, 2010, 07:11:21 PM

Welcome to the forum, Dave! Phinaddict knows his stuff and is right, that's about the only way to remove it safely.

Regards,
David

Controlled Chaos · July 27, 2010, 07:54:34 PM

Thank you guys. I will definately give that method a try. I figured that the corrosion wouldn't annodize so I plan on sanding down the surface with fine sand paper so it is all smooth and as even as I can get it.

Just so we are clear. The bridge must be tapped out while the reel side plate is facing up right. So essentially, I will be looking at the outside of the reel side plate and the inside (where the bearing sits when the reel is assembled) will be facing down. I hope that makes sense. Thanks again.

Dave

Phinaddict · July 28, 2010, 04:19:30 AM

To be honest, I cant remember which way it taps out... but I think you're right.

If you are prepping the reel, have your anodizer strip it; ( or you can do it yourself using Drano).
If you use the Drano method, it will need to sit for a few minutes. Then use a toothbrush to remove the gold color. Rinse in fresh water. Oh, and wear gloves and goggles. After that, start sanding......and sanding.......and sanding. You will need to finish the bare aluminum to a high polish. Using a small bench top sander and a buffer with 2 bonnets will make your life better. Once it is nice and shiny, take it to your anodizer for its clear coat.

Lastly, Corrosion X all frame pieces before reassembling the frame.

Bryan Young · July 28, 2010, 02:44:40 PM

Welcome. Glad you could join us.

alantani · July 29, 2010, 04:53:54 AM

dave, please take a few shots during the tear down and of the final product, if you can. if you don't have an easy way of hosting them, just e-mail them to me and i can do it. i'm sure the guys would love to see the results. alan

Controlled Chaos · July 29, 2010, 02:45:38 PM

Sure Alan, I would be glad to take some pics and post em up as soon as I have the final product. I am at a stand still b/c I can't get the bridge bushing out of the side plate. As soon as I get the bridge bushing knocked out then I can start refinishing the surface.