SS screws for Penn reels

Started by fIsHsTiiCkS, December 16, 2014, 09:49:06 PM

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mike1010

Sal, you are right that thing have got a little scatter-shot, like my saying "not 5-40" then "yes 5-40" to the bridge screws.  Would you believe a typo?  That's my story and I'm sticking to it.

Jason and Cone, regarding the bridge screws:  For my Jigmaster and Surfmaster they are 6-40, for certain.  The relevant McMaster part number] is 921961761, which is 3/4" fully threaded.  There is also 92196a765, which is 1" with threads only on the last 1/4".  Too bad they don't have 3/4" with only 1/4" of thread.  I am still looking for something like that.

CoolDade, what screws are you using to replace the slotted ones under the side plate?

Thanks.

--Mike

CooldadE

#61
I really didn't look for some SS screws for those. I just greased up the original ones good and assembled.

Cool
I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6...

mike1010

Quote from: CooldadE on January 25, 2015, 01:50:09 AM
I really didn't look for some SS screws for those. I just greased up the original ones good and assembled.

Right.  I meant to ask Jason that question.

fIsHsTiiCkS

The 6-40 is what fits perfectly. The 3/4 screw is to long and would have to be cut. Now the 5/8th screw is a perfect size and does not require shorting. I have recently switched over to using ss bridge screws. I took the above mentioned screw and then tapped off the threading at the tip that I would need, then took a dremel and slowly ground down the rest of the threading. I took a piece of 1000 grit sand paper and smoothed out the rest. Works like a charm and only took about 3mins a screw.

I have been very busy and have not been on here as much or have been able to put up pics of how I did this. I have some free time coming up and will post pics of what I did. Also, I have a build I will be posting as well.

mike1010

Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 12, 2015, 02:56:28 AM
The 6-40 is what fits perfectly. The 3/4 screw is to long and would have to be cut. Now the 5/8th screw is a perfect size and does not require shorting. I have recently switched over to using ss bridge screws. I took the above mentioned screw and then tapped off the threading at the tip that I would need, then took a dremel and slowly ground down the rest of the threading. I took a piece of 1000 grit sand paper and smoothed out the rest. Works like a charm and only took about 3mins a screw.

I have been very busy and have not been on here as much or have been able to put up pics of how I did this. I have some free time coming up and will post pics of what I did. Also, I have a build I will be posting as well.

Thanks, that's pretty much what I did based on our previous discussions.  I was asking to see what you had done with the flat head screws under the head plate, which hold the frame ring to the posts/bars/frame.

I just posted to another thread about a Surfmaster that includes these screw upgrades.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=11537.msg130276#msg130276

STRIPER LOU

Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns  price .65 cents ea.      Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?

fIsHsTiiCkS

Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns  price .65 cents ea.      Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?

Modifying screws is not my favorite thing to do but it does bear great results!

fIsHsTiiCkS

#67
Ok, I have posted this else where on here but wanted to put it here as this is where it belongs. Here are the bridge screws for the jigmaster, most penn reels in that size class and up to 113h. They are 18-8 stainless, which just means they are basically 303 stainless. http://www.mcmaster.com/#92196a138/=vzlbof

They will work well and only the yoke/bridge screws need to be modified. Some have various techniques. I dremel them and some chuck them in a drill and use a file.

Here is what it will look like.



Looks rough but works like a charm! Also, another member(mike1010) did a more refined job. The finish SS screw being the one at the bottom.

Quote from: mike1010 on February 12, 2015, 02:43:13 PM
Quote from: mike1010 on September 11, 2014, 07:06:38 PM
Thanks, all, for the suggestions to go the full monty route, but that has never been my intention for this reel.
I could not find partially threaded 6-40 SS cap screws long enough for the yoke bridge screws, so ended up turning down fully threaded ones.  The result has less meat than the original screws, but the yoke moves smoothly, and the screws should be strong enough.  Time will tell. Better Dremel skills evident here, I hope.

The result is this.




This will also work great on accuplates for the jigmaster and 113h.


mike1010

Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns  price .65 cents ea.      Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate?  Thanks.

Mike

fIsHsTiiCkS

#69
Quote from: mike1010 on February 20, 2015, 04:18:17 PM
Quote from: STRIPER LOU on February 12, 2015, 05:27:37 PM
Those look great! I have also been buying the Stainless steel countersink flat heads from Mcmaster. I put a piece of tape on them to protect the threads and chuck them up in my electric drill. Using a mill smooth file
I put a nice dome shape on them and polish with a few different grades of emery. Penns  price .65 cents ea.      Mcmaster About a nickel with a few minutes work. How can you beat it?
Lou, did you find screws that fit the countersink angle in the ring under the JM head plate?  Thanks.

Mike


As I stated before I found screw replacements for this. Here they are.

The screws come from Ulua Junkies, which I think a few members are familiar with. http://www.uluajunkies.com/shopnewell.html Its the SS slotted screws in the 5/8 length. He has increased to $1.25 a screw which is why I have waited on posting these, trying to find more cost effective screws.

Here is what they look like next to the stock screws.



A little shorting is required. I didnt cut it to the same size as I am using an accurate frame and they can handle longer screws.



The screw isnt pretty as it was the first attempt, the others are all very clean. Practice is perfect! The one thing to note is it sits lightly higher than the stock. The top screw being the SS and the one below is the stock. I havent had a clearance issue myself.



If clearance becomes an issue with the side plate just grind the outer edge alittle and it will fit perfect. Hopefully you can see the slight trimming i did to the edge.



Hope this helps.







CooldadE

I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool
I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6...

Alto Mare

#71
I've done this two years ago, thanks to Irish Jigger, he put us on to these stainless steel screws from McMasters Carr, I miss that guy.
here I used Phillips head, they did stick up a little, but didn't have any issues with clearance. No need to shorten these, few sizes are available.
http://alantani.com/index.php?topic=6391.msg54290#msg54290

Sal
Forget about all the reasons why something may not work. You only need to find one good reason why it will.

fIsHsTiiCkS

Quote from: CooldadE on February 21, 2015, 02:23:57 AM
I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool

I just used a dremel with a cutter attachment the second time very clean. Many ways to skin a cat.

CooldadE

Quote from: fIsHsTiiCkS on February 21, 2015, 02:33:49 AM
Quote from: CooldadE on February 21, 2015, 02:23:57 AM
I don't know if you did it or not but if you thread a nut in to the screw before you cut it the end product is very clean...
Cool

I just used a dremel with a cutter attachment the second time very clean. Many ways to skin a cat.
I Love Cats... They taste Good !

Cool
I would rather be judged by 12 than carried by 6...

Boatzilla

I don't know if anyone is using them but microfasteners.com has many unusual thread patterns and are very reasonable for their screws. I needed 8-40 screws in a 1" length that I could not find anywhere. Microfasteners had dies available so I just make my own now. They are worth a glance.

Thanks
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