Removing Seized Side Plate Screws

[russ1962]

I recently found an old P220 that is in 8.5/10 condition and was doing routine maintenance, cleaning, bearings, adding grease to screws, etc..
When I tried to remove the hidden side plate screws they were much harder to turn than normal. Although no signs of corrosion on the reel, I don't want to snap them off.
Any suggestions on removing them safely would be appreciated.

[alantani]

i'm cringing as i write this......

ok, so the screws are stainless steel.  with ALOT of downward pressure and a tight fit on the screwdriver blade, i have been able to back out nearly every single screw.  i can't think of a single one that i've sheared.  having said that, though, i can tell you that these REALLY make me nervous....... 

[russ1962]

Me too, Alan.
I just took the left side plate off and tried it again. Was able to get three of them loose but the 4th one started to round off a bit so I quit.
I have a Makita cordless impact driver that I've used on other projects, but a little voice is telling me NO, don't use it !!!

[bluefish69]

I just finished a P 229 & ALL the inside screws were seized. Get a long Nose Vise Grip & start working the screws in & out. I removed all of my screws & then re-taped the holes to clean them of dirt & whatever.

Grease the holes when putting the screws back.

Mike

[Keta]

Get a long Nose Vise Grip & start working the screws in & out.
Grease the holes when putting the screws back.

Mike

That's after they break right?

Good luck Russ.

GREASE, GREASE, GREASE

[russ1962]

Thanks guys! I think I'm going to give it another try after dinner.

[alantani]

any chance you ca go after it with a torch?  is there any plastic that's gonna melt if you heat it up?  that would be mu next step if you have an aluminum frame.

[bluefish69]

Get a long Nose Vise Grip & start working the screws in & out.
Grease the holes when putting the screws back.

Mike

That's after they break right?

I haven't broke one yet. Now you will be my jinx.

Good luck Russ.

GREASE, GREASE, GREASE

Right Lee

[Newell Nut]

First thing is heat with a torch or Bic grill lighter will get hot enough and then wet it with liquid penetrant. Do this a couple times. Then try to screw them out. If you break one it is still possible to get the remaining piece out. I did a tutorial on a P 220 about 6 months ago if you can find it. Last resort is to buy a used one on line if you fail.

[russ1962]

I got home too late from dinner last night to give the torch a try.
I'll try again this evening after work.
Thanks for the tips!

[Tunacious]

Many moons ago I purchased a bunch of original P series. Most all of them had the same issue with the frame screws. I purchased a lighter in a Smoking Shop. You could also use it as a mini torch which was perfect for this job. By shooting the flame directly onto the screw head, it heats it up (along with the entire ss frame) it will eventually loosen the locktite that was applied at the Newell factory. It works like a champ.

[russ1962]

The heat trick worked, but not completely.
With the heat, I was able to get the screw 4 turns out but stopped, due to slightly rounding one of the edges of the screw head last night. If I ever put a Tib frame on it I'll replace the screw.
For now, I put some grease on it and tightened it back up and then loosened it a few times, and re-tightened it.

[alantani]

if you can, get it all the way out and grease it properly.  otherwise you might find yourself back in the same spot later.   

[foakes]

Hi Russ --

Alan and everyone else is right -- try to get it out with vice grips, heat, and patience.

Heat directly on the screw will melt the loctite.

Of course, the screw is SS -- so it will likely hold up to the vice grips.

If it gets ruined, someone will have a new screw for you -- I have some in my small stash of Newell parts.

If you need one -- let us know which screw it is, size, thread, and a pic.

Best,

Fred

[Newell Nut]

I have over 100 of those little screws if you need a new set. Just PM me.